'68 BSA Victor Build..... Bloody 'ell mate... You 'effin daft or sommat?!?

Was Thinking about it for a while
Maybe possible to mill av wider clean slot insert an U shaped part perhaps can buy
or make one tight fit and TIG weld It on some spot
Starting at the first grove from top downwards So ,It wont fly out
Maybe the same other end



1726087785672.png
 
I used some homemade tooling to tap the dings out from the filler hole as best I could. What's left is getting filler. The only way to "properly" deal with it would be cutting the tank apart and use an english wheel, then welding back together. I don't have access to an engilsh wheel since I retired, so this'll have to do. At least the damaged part was under where the yellow will go, so no one will ever know... 'cept you guys of course. :cheers:

Fwiw, my homemade tooling didn't work worth a damn, so I shitcanned it. Thought I took pics, but I can't find 'em, so I guess I forgot to.


1726599758769.png
 
Piddlin' while waiting on parts...


The speedo has been on my "dread" list from day one. It worked when I tested it a few yrs ago but it looked like hell.... and stunk of dead critters.


1726799968739.png



Decided to tackle it today. Woof... what a mess. the rubber isolator was hard and cracked. Draganfly.co.uk has 'em in stock for under 20 bucks. A 57 yr old piece is still available... unbelievable. Anyway...
Inside the isolator, between it and the instrument was packed with mud dauber nests and larvae goo. No other way to explain it really, just a dirty, stinky mess. I had to cut it off in pieces.


1726800673981.png


1726800318655.png



After that it was just a matter of using WD40 and wood scrapers and patiently cleaning the speedo up.


1726800447838.png



And here we are... can't really call it "good as new" 'cause the bezel has a ding in it. Other than that, it looks good as new.... the side you see anyway. I'm callin' this one a win. I'll take it.


1726800609928.png
 
Last edited:
Piddlin' while waiting on parts...


The speedo has been on my "dread" list from day one. It worked when I tested it a few yrs ago but it looked like hell.... and stunk of dead critters.


View attachment 335784


Decided to tackle it today. Woof... what a mess. the rubber isolator was hard and cracked. Draganfly.co.uk has 'em in stock for under 20 bucks. A 57 yr old piece is still available... unbelievable. Anyway...
Inside the isolator, between it and the instrument was packed with mud dauber nests and larvae goo. No other way to explain it really, just a dirty, stinky mess. I had to cut it off in pieces.


View attachment 335788

View attachment 335785


After that it was just a matter of using WD40 and wood scrapers and patiently cleaning the speedo up.


View attachment 335786


And here we are... can't really call it "good as new" 'cause the bezel has a ding in it. Other than that, it looks good as new.... the side you see anyway. I'm callin' this one a win. I'll take it.


View attachment 335787
Nice job Jim, looks cracking’ to me.
 
Thanks guys!!

Voltage regulator consists of a zener diode and a heat sink. The heat sink had decades of barn crud and grime on it. Threw it in the blasting cabinet and good as new.


1726865949667.png


A little heat sink grease on the diode...

1726866326061.png



...and installed with new hardware.


1726866404867.png



When I got this bike it had the heat sink and diode relocated because of the aftermarket (high) fender... so it didn't have the right hardware when I got it. I had no choice but to use new. It gives a good indication of the quality of the plating though. The fork pinch bolts are the original rusty ones that I re-plated. you can't really tell the difference 'tween new and re-plated.


1726866683176.png
 
Have you bench tested the Zeener. I'm pretty sure you have the right stuff to do it.
Yep, the new power supply I got for plating will work for testing. And yes, I plan on doing that. The manual even has a procedure for testing iirc.
 
Back
Top