any huge difference between the two? pros and cons of each, and are they universal? I have the 6 pack on my current motor and the baskets got like a 1/8 inch of play. I want to swap the whole 7 pack assembly from a spare motor I have. Thanks guys.
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7 pack vs 6 pack clutch
- Thread starter alex f
- Start date
I like the later 6 plate clutch because it has a damper plate at the bottom of the plate stack. This smooths engagement and I think it also puts less stress on those 6 little damper springs mounted into the back of the main hub. The only difference between the 6 plate and the older 7 plate is the inner hub that holds the plates. The outer hubs are the same and can be swapped. So, if that excess play you have is because of a worn outer hub, you could swap in your extra older one and keep the 6 plate inner w/ the damper plate.
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So I can use the basket from the 7 pack assembly as a replacement for my possibly worn basket so long as the internal components of the assembly stay the same?
If you enjoy excruciating details, you can trawl thru robinc's adventures with clutch baskets, starting at (*gasp*) post #992.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/on-the-road-again-at-40-the-bike-that-is.49360/page-50#post-552158
http://www.xs650.com/threads/on-the-road-again-at-40-the-bike-that-is.49360/page-50#post-552158
Yes, you can use the outer basket from your 7 pack assembly and swap your current whole 6 pack inner hub into it. Steel and friction plates are the same so you can use any of them. Might want to measure their thicknesses and use the best ones. 3mm thick is the as new spec for the frictions and many are still like that. The stock friction plates are pretty robust. The steels usually don't wear much but you can check them too if you like. New spec on them is 1.4mm. That steel damper plate retained by the wire at the bottom of your current inner hub is different. Even though it looks identical to the other steels, it's slightly thicker @ 1.6mm.
Sweet thanks for the insight. Just to clarify I found this video on you tube of the same exact issue I’m looking into. I’ve known about it for about a month. But since last checking into it yesterday it seems to have gotten worse. Probably worse then in this video
This whole thread was actually very insightful. Read thru the whole thing and highlighted a few key points while I was headed to Indiana for some steelhead fishing. Thanks for sharing. I ended up going with the 7 disc assembly I had off of a spare motor. Plates all measured in at 3mm. So far everything looks good. The only thing I noticed that I’m not sure if I should be weary of is that my 7 disc assembly dose not have provisions for the lock washer behind the lock nut? My 82 assembly has two slots to retain it. I did also install mikes spring retainers but I’m not sure how well I like them. I bought high performance springs from him but opted to use my stock ones just because the springs from mikes seemed way to long and the old ones are tried and tru in my opinion. Any take on his springs and retainers?
Aftermarket heavy duty springs are all longer than stock ones, but they fit and work OK. Yes, the older clutch hub didn't use that fold-up lock washer on the retaining nut, just a normal split ring or Belleville type lock washer.
Okay cool so I’m golden to start it up in the morning then. With the new assembly in there I have no more play in my basket and my clutch is waaay stiffer then with the 6 pack assembly (with my stock springs still in). Not sure if that due to being a little less worn but I do love a stiff clutch.
hogtyed
Paul
I'm more interested in how the steelhead fishing was.
Absolutely 100% out of this world.
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