73TX getting some new love

Blasting some smalls this morning.My little blast pot makes no where near the noise my commercial equipment did when I was as in the biz,but it is a bit noisy so gotta let the sleeping beauties sleep a bit.Meanwhile,going to add some pictures in the next post of wiring and front end as it came apart.
 

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Coil set up change to it sometime in its earlier life.Some not so pretty splices in that area and battery box area.Inner headlight area appeared seemingly correct.Left as much as I could connected and didn’t get snip snip happy even though a new wire harness will be used.Still maybe some lost history in there to refer to later. The fork tubes and everything front end when removed appeared original.Didn’t spend a lot of time pondering the why’s with the wiring removal since I’ll be using a new harness.If it was a just getting running again project I’d of surely been dissecting.Still May have to.Maybe a useful reference photo for something or someone down the road in this batch.I’m sure I’ll be doing the,Hmmm was it upside down on the left of the cable holder Or rightPictures are priceless as the saying goes✅✅.lol🤷‍♂️
 

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I see it has a dual output coil. What ignition system does it have?
Its a Pamco Greg. I have a hunch the PO tried to do a DIY hurried install with no success and walked away in frustration with the right plug out. The crude connections are my first clue.😳.Regardless it’ll be in the little/tote marked,Someday.lol
 

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Everything I wanted to get blasted is done.Swingarm bushings removed with a very minimal touch of heat,which normally isn’t my luck,brass bushings on order.Painted it,the center stand and side stand gloss black like the frame.I’m painting the fork stem,triple tree,battery box,air boxes and foot pegs the matte black finish.While removing the air box cover cotter pins I happened to notice the difference in length which was interesting to me not that I’ve had that many 72’s/73’s this far but interesting so I’m putting it in the context of this thread.I’ve used the Krylon Matte black #2754 over the Krylon gray primer #8290 the last 2 m/c projects with no issues and I like it’s sheen as well.Many available options but this is my go to now.Been fortunate to get it disassembled and components blasted and painted in a couple weeks.It’ll make for a more enjoyable winter planning to get the frame components,forks reworked,wheels relaced and back to a roller by spring.When I relocated the 72/73 wiring thread and looked at that diagram done by Skull and updated again by him and all you others input I again am thankful to all of you involved,Thank you.I’ll be referring to it offen when I’m reinstalling the new harness down the road a ways.
 

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Prepped,primed and painted the parts I wanted Matte Black this morning.When painting foot pegs I spend the extra time to tape and not paint the peg.I’ve not found the correct rivet pin to remove and replace so this is my go to. I first wire brush smooth the blasted peg area that is exposed inside and out. I use a Dremal with a straight brush for this.Reaches inside the peg fine.Takes a few brushes to do this. I tape the rivets and peg accordingly.Then prime and paint.After black is fully dry I then tape the black leaving brush clean peg and pin exposed.2or 3 light coats keep it from rusting.Since I painted these this morning I’ll leave them in the heat another day or so before for applying tape to the fresh black now dry but not enough to tape.Then I’ll clear.I’ve been using rattle can RO clear for this with good results.By not taping the Matte Black and clearing defeats the Matte Black sheen.All new peg rubber on next parts order.
 

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Long ago in a distant galaxy there was a guy who restored a 72, no not mailman he's smarter that the guy in the next galaxy. He learned that the air boxes have a lot of places (after the filter) where the grit from blasting can hide. After 50 miles or so the bike became erratic, It was discovered that the grit was slowly migrating into the carbs and blocking the passages. Maybe you got all the grit out, maybe not.
 
I’m all about pictures,pictures and more pictures.Not only for reference as needed,but I’ve found through the years when acquiring a car,motorcycle,tractor etc whatever the project may be whether for business or pleasure if there are pictures of any number and any notes whatsoever it’s a plus plus from the get go.Yep it’s 2025,pictures are easy and cheap on our devices however I like the printed copies to keep with the project.This 73TX’s pictures taken so far are now printed and an album has begun.
 

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I ain’t updating the lights or the heat.My kids and my wife get to fight or get along. Lol.I made it all legal 12 years ago when I put a little bit away for myself.One motorcycle One binks 69 ..Food clothing shelter.And a sense of humor that will either get your ass deeper in trouble or get you painting the judges garage.🤷‍♂️😇.✅
 
Installed All-Balls bearing kit today.Removed original races.Added neck notches at a slight angle.2 at top,2 at bottom across from one another so new races can be easily tapped out if ever needed.Set new races using a setting tool from a tip of Gary’s using an old race welded to a piece of bar that I’d made a few years ago.The tree stem needed some smoothing so the new bearings would fit. I didn’t overdo it but just enough so they properly fit. The old ball bearings were shot and had started to wear into the stem a bit.Pleased with the fit and feel after all reassembly was complete.Installing new brass bushings and reinstalling swingarm next.
 

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Brass bushings installed.One side at a time.A thread or two on the install of brass bushings is here on XS650.com.✅
 

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Sidestand and centerstand mounted.Swingarm remounted easily as it should have after having cleared and clean components.Steering components loosely reassembled.Fork rebuilding is next.
 

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Disassembled the forks for rebuilding. I failed to knock loose the upper nut cap before removing.Wasn’t an issue after sliding in a lower tree and snugging.Came loose easily.Drained tubes accordingly.Needed to use my crude but effective fork tool to hold inner tube to remove hex head bolt. I run a Dremal brush around the perimeter before attempting to remove clips.A spuirt of wd40 or equivalent doesn’t hurt. I use a bent sharp 1/8” welding rod pick tool and a small flat screwdriver to patiently remove clip. I use the reverse tire spoon in the vise method found here from a previous rebuild.Works quite well if you’re patient and slowly work the seal out. The inner of the fork is very easily marred or scratched.A couple stripper cleanings to remove factory clear before bringing aluminum parts back to life.Undecided at the moment if I’ll be getting new tubes or using originals. A seal kit will be included in the next parts order in the near future.
 

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Reworking the wheels is not far off.Hung a reworked 75b wheel in the frame for the just because I needed to see some motivational bling reason.Mostly caught up for now until fork seal kit,spokes,and some miscellaneous parts are ordered and arrive.Tank went to the basement for some attention.Going to clean it after closing the vertical slice a PO put in for who knows what reason.JB weld 2part clear will do that after some some correct prep.It been on the bike with no cap for years. The dents are getting tended to.I’ll get it presentable and useful regardless but have no intention of using it or any of the original tins on this bike at completion.All freshly painted tins are on mind in the end.
 

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