'75 650B Charging System Guidance Needed

Wont hurt either to quickly check the connectors / wire and / fuse sitting right

In post #29 if one looks at the connector top right pin it can appear as if it sits below the others in that row
 
I watched the video and it's very good.
For purposes of ease, is it acceptable to take the brown wire reading at this connection which is where the regulator/rectifier plugs into the harness... just a different section than shown in the video?
If yes, I've got readings.

 

Attachments

  • Brown Wire.jpg
    Brown Wire.jpg
    171.4 KB · Views: 96
You're looking for a drop across the ignition switch going to the regulator by comparing pure battery voltage with what comes out of the iggy switch. With the regulator hooked up you'll likely see a drop but you wont know if it's because of contact resistance in the iggy switch or the regulator (or both). The regulator needs to be disconnected.
 
Understood.
Knowing that I need to disconnect the other larger lead to the regulator, once I do have it disconnected, can I take my reading where I showed in picture which will save me struggling with access to the connector that ties the stator itno the wiring harness. It's in a bad spot and may require removing the darn air box(es) again. :eek:
Ultimately, I'm going to do whatever it takes, but if I can save a few steps....
 
All you need to disconnect is the regulator... so you can measure the voltage going to it on the brown wire. You don't need to disconnect the stator.
 
Good Morning All -
I've been collecting the needed items needed to put the charging system back together as best possible.
Early on I had bought the the new regulator/rectifier.
Subsequently and with the guidance received here was able to determine that the rotor had gone bad.
That was sent off to Jim... more on that later.
Following Mailman's prompt, I went searching for a grommet to match the dimensions of the one he had used to seal the stator harness between the motor block and the side cover. That proved to be quite a challenge and the closest I came was a grommet with a 3/8" hole designed to be installed in a 5/8" hole in a 3/16" thick plate. All good but the overall outside diameter was 7/8".... Mailman recommended 1". The tiny bit that won't be sealed at two corners (remember that the original is flat sided against the backside of the cover) I'll be able to seal up with a dab of weather-stripping adhesive.
I also indicated that prior to reassembling I was going to replace the harness sleeve and the wire that goes to the neautral indicator switch as well as the rubber neutral switch cap. They're all hard as a rock.
I thought I had what I needed but ultimately I followed Jetmechmarty's suggestion and placed an order with Vintage Connections. I could've used any wire but it was important to me to replace it in kind with the proper color coding.
I'm expecting the Vintage Connections delivery today.
Now - back to the rotor.
As I had said, I took full advantage of Jim's somewhat new rotor rebuilding service. I had fully expected to be waiting weeks and to receive back a rebuilt rotor that still looked "old".
Well, Jim had the rotor back to me in a week's time!
Not only that, but the workmanship is amongst the best I've ever seen!
Take a look at this...

View attachment 198470

View attachment 198471

Fella's... it doesn't get any better than this!

Thank you Jim!!!

If anyone has a rotor issue you'd be doing yourself a disservice if you don't take advantage of Jim's services!

Hopefully I'll find sometime one evening this week to correct my harness and reassemble everything.

More to come.
Bloody beautiful work Jim. A piece of working art that no one sees. If you know you know.
 
Finally got around to getting some voltage readings..

  • 13.05v immediately after disconnecting battery tender
  • 12.22v after sitting overnight w/o battery tender
  • 11.35v w/ key on and regulator completely disconnected
.87v drop.

Is this acceptable?

As a reminder, regulator is pumping over 15v into the battery and I'm trying to determine if the new electronic regulator is defective.

Thoughts?
 
Finally got around to getting some voltage readings..

  • 13.05v immediately after disconnecting battery tender
  • 12.22v after sitting overnight w/o battery tender
  • 11.35v w/ key on and regulator completely disconnected
.87v drop.

Is this acceptable?

As a reminder, regulator is pumping over 15v into the battery and I'm trying to determine if the new electronic regulator is defective.

Thoughts?

Just so we are on the same page ... is the voltage on the now disconnected connector where the regulator should sit Measured

measure the voltage going to it on the brown wire

I believe that the suspicion is a Voltage drop to the regulator causing it to believe to low and not regulate down
Brown to Ground voltage
But please measure the other pins to ground also
 
"Just so we are on the same page ... is the voltage on the now disconnected connector where the regulator should sit Measured"

Yes sir
I took reading at the brown wire at the connection point where it wold connect to the regulator lead and the connector is apart.
The other lead from the regulator is also disconnected.
I think the question now is the .87 voltage drop acceptable and if not is it truly enough of a drop to trigger the regulator to want to pump in the high voltage that it is.
 
So we are talking 11.35 brown to ground .. I would believe that to be OK about ... Not 100 % Certain
but it feels OK other might come in

Please give info about what regulator you have
Please give info about if the wiring is stock

And measure the resistance on the black to battery minus ignition off .
Are you comfortable making a wire jump between battery + to brown on the regulator so if that is done
we can have actual battery voltage going in to regulator as a test
The others to the ordinary pins Black and Green
 
"Just so we are on the same page ... is the voltage on the now disconnected connector where the regulator should sit Measured"

Yes sir
I took reading at the brown wire at the connection point where it wold connect to the regulator lead and the connector is apart.
The other lead from the regulator is also disconnected.
I think the question now is the .87 voltage drop acceptable and if not is it truly enough of a drop to trigger the regulator to want to pump in the high voltage that it is.
Just so we're clear, we're looking to compare voltages and see if there's a drop. We need to know what the voltage is at the brown wire to the regulator compared to the battery voltage.
Disconnect the tender, turn the key on, measure the battery voltage... then measure the brown wire.
Those are the two voltages we're looking for.
 
Should have added....
Turn the key on and wait for the battery voltage to stabilize before recording. We don't care about a drop over time, just one relative to the other.
 
Please give info about what regulator you have brand new Electrosport ESR350
Please give info about if the wiring is stock Stock wiring which had been mostly gone through and most (not all) connections cleaned up when bike was acquired as a non-runner two years ago.

And measure the resistance on the black to battery minus ignition off .0.00 ohm
Are you comfortable making a wire jump between battery + to brown on the regulator so if that is done Yes - I can do that
The others to the ordinary pins Black and Green I'm not understanding this
Disconnect the tender, turn the key on, measure the battery voltage... then measure the brown wire. Battery tender hasn't been connected since yesterday.
After overnight sitting (I wanted to see the drop off once tender was disconnected) I ran tests with battery at 12.22v at the brown wire w/ the key off and the again with the key on which was 11.35v

I believe we're on the same page and I'm clear... except for what I'm to do with the Black and green.

I'm truly thinking I've received a bum regulator but would like to conclude all tests so I can be emphatic with the mfg. about exchanging it if need be.
 
Turn the key on and wait for the battery voltage to stabilize before recording This was done - I was patient.

Also, at the time that I reassembled I did the twenty minute "leave the turn signal on" test and then checked the voltage usage. It had used just under 1/2 volt.
 
...at the brown wire w/ the key off and the again with the key on...
...I believe we're on the same page and I'm clear...
No, apparently not.
Both checks I want you to do are with the key on.... I don't want to see anything having to do with the key off.....

Turn the key on and let the volts stabilize...... we good?
Now, measure the voltage at the battery. And it reads what? (insert value here)
Now, measure voltage at the brown regulator wire. (insert value here)
Now you can turn the key off and put your meter away. That's all I need to know.

What we're trying to determine is how much of a power loss are you getting across the ignition switch. Here's a "for instance"....
Battery is at 14v. Because of a 1 volt loss across the iggy switch, the regulator only sees 13v on the brown (sense) wire. Thinking the battery is only at 13v, it tries to charge it up to 14v...... it doesn't know the battery is already at 14v and is now pushing it up to 15V because all it sees is the lower voltage from the iggy switch. End result: it's overcharging.
 
AHHHH! Stupid me. Sorry about that misunerstanding.

Turn the key and let the volts stabilize...... we good? Rodger that! Done!
Now, measure the voltage at the battery. And it reads what? (insert value here) 11.86v
Now, measure voltage at the brown regulator wire. (insert value here) 11.36v
Now you can turn the key off and put your meter away. That's all I need to know. Meter away

patience
appreciated
 
patience appreciated
No worries... I used to be a teacher. :sneaky:

So, you're a half a volt low across the iggy switch. That's borderline too much. If the set point on the regulator was 14.5v, it would charge the battery to 15v.
It could still be a bad regulator, but I'd clean the switch up before replacing the regulator. There's a good "how to" on cleaning it somewhere here. I think it was written by @5twins . Have a search for that.
You want to get that drop down to zero ideally... with not more than 0.2volts drop max.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top