'76 XS Boyer Ignition Install Wiring

Runnriot

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Hello,
Im installing the Boyer ignition KIT 00303 and have a few questions

Based on serial number it appears my exact model is XS650D. After removing the points, it had 2 wires running from them, an orange, and a gray which also had a black wire running into it. From those two wires come out a Orange and gray wire which both appear to be connected to the old coils per wiring diagrams.

The right coil had a Red/white colored wire with a double plug connector, one of the ends had a white wire soldered to it which was then connected to the coil.

A few questions"
  1. I need to run a ignition wire to the New Coil, and to the Digital Twin Unit (Blue Box), Do i simply take the red/white wire (which appears to be the ignition switch wire, i hope) and replace the old dual connector on it with a new one and run the digital twin unit red wire to it and the second one i put a new wire to the coil?
  2. What do I do with the existing Orange and Gray left over wire? It does not appear to have to connect to anything anymore. Do i just cut the connectors off and put a cap over the wires and electrical tape it?
  3. Do i need to do anything with the dual connector that the points wire connected to or is that all connected back together and it would now just be a half empty dual connector left (since black wire still runs into it)?
  4. Did a lot of people have to reposition the horn or contact breaker with capacitors? Trying to figure out where exactly to hide the blue box as im reading it needs a lot of air circulating. And the coil itself mounting to original spot seems to also be a slight issue as theres another piece that gets in the way.
Link to photos below
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/e6012mr3nyzdtwz/AAB-nrWnu1peRLfI_-LYuGw2a?dl=0

Thanks for all the help ahead of time.
 

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grizld1

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1. Correct.
2. Those wires are no longer in use and are not powered. You don't need to do anything.
3. No need for attention.
4. The breaker points are no longer present and the capacitor is no longer connected to the ignition and can be removed.
5. Don't know what you mean by another piece blocking coil installation. The Gill mini coil in your kit is a good deal smaller than one of the OE coils on your bike.
Use your imagination and fabricate a bracket. The igniter box doesn't have to hang out in the breeze, just don't mount it in an enclosed box. One solution is to
hang it on crossed zip ties.
 

GLJ

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This is how I installed the coil and blue box on my XS2.
upload_2019-5-11_7-36-15-png.140729

upload_2019-5-11_7-38-51-png.140730
 

Runnriot

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1. Correct.
2. Those wires are no longer in use and are not powered. You don't need to do anything.
3. No need for attention.
4. The breaker points are no longer present and the capacitor is no longer connected to the ignition and can be removed.
5. Don't know what you mean by another piece blocking coil installation. The Gill mini coil in your kit is a good deal smaller than one of the OE coils on your bike.
Use your imagination and fabricate a bracket. The igniter box doesn't have to hang out in the breeze, just don't mount it in an enclosed box. One solution is to
hang it on crossed zip ties.
Thank you for the quick response. This really helps.
 

Runnriot

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1. Correct.
2. Those wires are no longer in use and are not powered. You don't need to do anything.
3. No need for attention.
4. The breaker points are no longer present and the capacitor is no longer connected to the ignition and can be removed.
5. Don't know what you mean by another piece blocking coil installation. The Gill mini coil in your kit is a good deal smaller than one of the OE coils on your bike.
Use your imagination and fabricate a bracket. The igniter box doesn't have to hang out in the breeze, just don't mount it in an enclosed box. One solution is to
hang it on crossed zip ties.

Do you think this triple Connector would work to connect the main power wire, and then the wire from coil and wire from blue box? Or should i solder both wires to a female connector that the power wire goes to? Having a hard time finding a double wire terminal connector.
 

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grizld1

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I wouldn't recommend that at all; for one thing you'd wind up with a plug (bullet) connector on the hot end of the power wire which would ground if it came loose. If you want to do the job right, go to www.vintageconnections.com or www.cycleterminal.com and order the right connectors and a crimp tool. You'll get plenty of connectors in a minimum order, so practice a bit with some spare wire before attacking your harness.
 

Runnriot

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I wouldn't recommend that at all; for one thing you'd wind up with a plug (bullet) connector on the hot end of the power wire which would ground if it came loose. If you want to do the job right, go to www.vintageconnections.com or www.cycleterminal.com and order the right connectors and a crimp tool. You'll get plenty of connectors in a minimum order, so practice a bit with some spare wire before attacking your harness.
Thank you for the links, ill order the correct pieces. Just sucks that they are so hard to come by, cant find the dual connector anywhere locally. was hoping to finish the install today , oh well I will have to wait.
 

Runnriot

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Follow up Question: I installed the whole Boyer system, motorcycle started up but does not sound good.
  • Boyer Instructions indicate to warm up the bike and time the indicator at Full Advance by revving up the engine. This should be at setting 'C' in the image. The lines should line up correct? at about +/-3500-4000 rpm im finding but varies on all bikes?
  • Does the line also need to line up during idle with Line 'A' Top dead center? or should it be between 'T' and 'A'? and or the b1,b2 marks?
  • Could my current timing be causing my motorcycle to have backfire when I give it throttle? It does not sound good. Or is that completely un-related?
    • If not related to Boyer could it be the spark plus? Anything else I should look at? winters coming soon so i want to get it running soon ideally.
  • There is also a ticking sound almost as if there is some air issue. See Link to Video below.
    • https://www.dropbox.com/s/8lvjkpyrevmx7d0/0921201855.mp4?dl=0
    • I cant recall if the air ticking sound was always there or not. But the backfiring started after my advancer springs broke, also replaced the air filter with a Green Uni Filter Foam one at the same time. When i remove the filter all together the condition is basically the same so it leads me to believe its not the filter causing the issue.
Any help is appreciated
 

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grizld1

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Book idle speed is 1200 rpm. At that approximate engine speed, timing should fall in the "F" range. Low speed spark should never occur at TDC. You need to buy or download a manual, click the "Tech" button for sources.
 

Runnriot

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Book idle speed is 1200 rpm. At that approximate engine speed, timing should fall in the "F" range. Low speed spark should never occur at TDC. You need to buy or download a manual, click the "Tech" button for sources.
Thank you for the response. I have the Clymers Book and that photo is from that book that i took this morning. Any recommendations on the other ones? I will adjust the boyer plate so the idle is in the F range.
 

GLJ

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If you get the full advance set correctly the advance at idle will also be correct. You want full advance to be on the C or a little to the right of it.
 

grizld1

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Right, get the advance timing dialed in correctly and idle timing will be fine. When you're looking for the full advance reading, rev the motor until the line stops moving. As to the rest, you need to start trooubleshooting. If you suspect an air leak, inspect for it; the Search bar here will show you plenty of how-to.
 
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