'78E brake light and turn signal LED conversion - flasher??

Sumo Rubber out of Scotland had good quality rubber bits. Unfortunately they closed their doors early this year. Shame.
Once again - agreed. I bought some stuff from SUMO rubber in Scotland and it was really good. I think it was the rubber sealing ring on the fuel tank cap. The ones from Mikes XS are too small and they crack when you install them.
 
So, I wanted to reenergize this post to add a little information. I too have a '78E.

First, many thanks to MaxPete , 5Twins, et al ..the information was great, not just the turn signals, but the links to removing the reserve lighting unit and the easy - for '78's - return of headlight control to the bar switch.

Now for some info. First, on Sylvania's website I found that they do not recommend a white bulb behind a red lens, but instead a red bulb... something to do with LED color spectrum. Using red solves the brightness and funky color issues, and the only downside is your plate light is now reddish. I'll take it.

2nd, I also found, just as Pete discovered, that the light checker works fine with the Sylvania bulb, but not with the Superbrite as I have used for years in other bikes. Must be a higher resistance in the Sylvania. So thanks again for the info.

Finally, I thought that if the Sylvania worked so great in the back, why not put some amber 1156's in the turn signals. I was rewarded with a big fail on this one, as the design of the Yamaha indicator and socket assy does not allow the Sylvania bulb to seat far enough into the socket to properly engage the bayonet - rather than a flat bottom on the "bulb" assy, it expects the taper of the incandescent bulb. I think this is exacerbated by the lateral arrangement of the socket (not a fan), as other indicators with the socket oriented longitudinally seem to work ok (e.g. Kawasaki). I should qualify this: out of my four indicators I could get the Sylvania bulb to seat in only one, and with a lot of cussing and my thumb black & blue. So back to the Superbrites for the turn signals, as they fit fine . Cheers
 
So, I wanted to reenergize this post to add a little information. I too have a '78E.

First, many thanks to MaxPete , 5Twins, et al ..the information was great, not just the turn signals, but the links to removing the reserve lighting unit and the easy - for '78's - return of headlight control to the bar switch.

Now for some info. First, on Sylvania's website I found that they do not recommend a white bulb behind a red lens, but instead a red bulb... something to do with LED color spectrum. Using red solves the brightness and funky color issues, and the only downside is your plate light is now reddish. I'll take it.

2nd, I also found, just as Pete discovered, that the light checker works fine with the Sylvania bulb, but not with the Superbrite as I have used for years in other bikes. Must be a higher resistance in the Sylvania. So thanks again for the info.

Finally, I thought that if the Sylvania worked so great in the back, why not put some amber 1156's in the turn signals. I was rewarded with a big fail on this one, as the design of the Yamaha indicator and socket assy does not allow the Sylvania bulb to seat far enough into the socket to properly engage the bayonet - rather than a flat bottom on the "bulb" assy, it expects the taper of the incandescent bulb. I think this is exacerbated by the lateral arrangement of the socket (not a fan), as other indicators with the socket oriented longitudinally seem to work ok (e.g. Kawasaki). I should qualify this: out of my four indicators I could get the Sylvania bulb to seat in only one, and with a lot of cussing and my thumb black & blue. So back to the Superbrites for the turn signals, as they fit fine . Cheers

….and that is exactly the same setup I am using @Wagner73 !

QUESTION: did you find a red Sylvania ZEVO bulb? I can only seem to find white ones.
 
Thanks. Ordered a few of these to try. And yes, I'm aware of the flasher issues, converted my Kz1000A to use a solid state flasher relay, wish to avoid load resistors... it's just a crude, hot solution.

I am very interested in your mention of "LED everything"...does this mean headlight too? I have fought this battle before with these old (small) headlight shells, and it's not a fight I relish. Please tell me you found a drop-in solution :)
 
Thanks. Ordered a few of these to try. And yes, I'm aware of the flasher issues, converted my Kz1000A to use a solid state flasher relay, wish to avoid load resistors... it's just a crude, hot solution.

I am very interested in your mention of "LED everything"...does this mean headlight too? I have fought this battle before with these old (small) headlight shells, and it's not a fight I relish. Please tell me you found a drop-in solution :)
Yes, I have a 7" replacement headlight, but about to go back to 7" flueted glass using a 7" headlight reflector/glass unit from Mikes XS and an H4 LED retrofit bulb. One can also use the headlight from XS1100 with an H4 bulb. Will be using these as these LEd retrofits have the color of halogens (warm white, but they allso sell them with cool white option).
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-Ultinon-headlight-brightness-Easy-fit/dp/B0CZ16YS8Y

LED will draw much less power, so need to adjust the voltage regulator down.
 
So I found a couple NOS Candlepower Inc H4 halogen conversions made especially for motorcycles. Unfortunately, Candlepower went out of business a few years ago, but there may be some still floating around:

https://www.mfgsupply.com/candlepow...pqLbzcFLG9tF260d0VlFr1t0IM1gTiXkhXGLcMH2jMuo4

I haven't tried the reflector in the XS yet, but it fits my '77 KZ1000 perfectly, just like the stock sealed beam, and way, way better than any of the other two or three reflectors I bought off Amazon, a couple of which didn't work at all because they were gigantic and bulbous compared to the stock bulb, and one "sorta" worked after a little surgery on its locating tabs and a spring change in the adjuster, but it still felt bogus. All that said, if you can find the Candlepower part, it is worth it. And of course being H4, a comparable LED would drop right in.

Externally it does have a slightly flatter lens face than the sealed beam, but I think most more modern lighting will have that. The "look" or fluting is not weird at all, but looks normal.
 
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