79’ 650 New Reg/Rec Causing Electrical Issues?

[Thraxxface]

When I got this bike the PO had caught fire to the Rectifier. Just last night I installed the new Reg/Rec from MikesXS. Its instructions state the obvious:

X3 White to x3 White
Green to Green
Brown to Brown
Red to Red+ on battery
Black to Black- on battery

The problem I’m having is that when the Reg/Rec red wire is connected the bike stutters at 3kRPMs and all the lights suck badly. When I unplug it the lights brighten up and the engine idles higher without any backfire. When I rev the engine with it unplugged the lights get more solid as they normally should with these older stators. I even wired in a 20Amp fuse to the line to see if it did anything. Nothing. Am I missing something? I’ve run through everything I possibly can. There is the red line that use to come from the Rectifier to the fuse box that I capped off according to the instructions saying it’s not needed. Should I be wiring back into that instead?

I’m supposed to be driving this crazy mf 720 miles in two days so I’m trying to button up as much as possible.

 

[Jim]

A pic of the alternator would help us a lot. We need to see what type it is.... Stock, PMA ....

 

[Thraxxface]

A pic of the alternator would help us a lot. We need to see what type it is.... Stock, PMA ....

It’s stock.

 

[Jim]

Cool. Give us some closeup shots of the brush connections?
Something doesn't look right.

 

[Thraxxface]

Cool. Give us some closeup shots of the brush connections?
Something doesn't look right.

 

[5twins]

I think the stator and rotor have been replaced with aftermarket ones. The brush wire colors are different from stock, as are their crimps, and there's a bunch of extra tapped holes on the housing face. The rotor is a later type with the pick-up magnet and it's timing mark is different looking than stock .....

 

[Thraxxface]

I think the stator and rotor have been replaced with aftermarket ones. The brush wire colors are different from stock, as are their crimps, and there's a bunch of extra tapped holes on the housing face. The rotor is a later type with the pick-up magnet and it's timing mark is different looking than stock .....

View attachment 335420

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Perfect. I’m so glad you’re on here right now. Take a look at the top right of my stator. Should timing marks be right there?!

Also, do you maybe have some insight as to why my charging system sucks when I Reg/Rec red wire into the battery from either the OEM harness/fusbox line or directly to the battery? It’s getting juice. Whites are at 0.07A and red is at 23-25A. Yellow gets 6A so I know it’s not an alternator issue.

 

[Thraxxface]

I think the stator and rotor have been replaced with aftermarket ones. The brush wire colors are different from stock, as are their crimps, and there's a bunch of extra tapped holes on the housing face. The rotor is a later type with the pick-up magnet and it's timing mark is different looking than stock .....

View attachment 335420

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The outside part of the stator was replaced. Most likely came from MikeXS as they’re identical all the way down to the harness and wires. I wasn’t around for that part swap. I would have just switched to a PMA and deleted the safety relay with it.

 

[Jim]

The rotor is a Chinese repop, a pretty nasty looking one at that. The inner brush is the ground brush, but there's a red wire on it. Red is normally hot, not ground, so that's odd.

The outer brush looks like the braided wire is missing?

 

[Thraxxface]

The rotor is a Chinese repop, a pretty nasty looking one at that. The inner brush is the ground brush, but there's a red wire on it. Red is normally hot, not ground, so that's odd.

The outer brush looks like the braided wire is missing?

The rotor is a Chinese repop, a pretty nasty looking one at that. The inner brush is the ground brush, but there's a red wire on it. Red is normally hot, not ground, so that's odd.

The outer brush looks like the braided wire is missing?

The outer brush has a green wire to it.

 

[Jan_P]

is it the correct reg /rec combo

 

[Thraxxface]

is it the correct reg /rec combo

Yes. I checked through several forums to see if anyone else had gotten the same one and no one has had any issues.

 

[GLJ]

Stater looks like it's been used as a toaster, it does not look good to me.

 

[Thraxxface]

Stater looks like it's been used as a toaster, it does not look good to me.
View attachment 335423

Yeah, I know. It seems like it’s fairly new, within a couple years, but I knew I should still take pictures of it.

 

[5twins]

No, the timing marks shouldn't be there. The reference mark on the rotor looks correct, at about the 5 o'clock position from the magnet if the magnet is at 12 o'clock .....

That leaves only the keyway and/or mounting. Maybe the keyway was machined in the wrong spot, or the rotor was mounted without the key in there.

As far as the reg-rec issues go, I'd say your new combined unit is bad. It's not uncommon. Most of those units are cheap, Chinese junk, even though they can cost quite a bit. Many of us "roll our own", so to speak, using an automotive regulator and a rectifier from the electronics world. Much cheaper and more reliable ......

https://www.xs650.com/threads/diy-reg-rec-5twins-and-jim.55842/

 

[Thraxxface]

No, the timing marks shouldn't be there. The reference mark on the rotor looks correct, at about the 5 o'clock position from the magnet if the magnet is at 12 o'clock .....

View attachment 335425

That leaves only the keyway and/or mounting. Maybe the keyway was machined in the wrong spot, or the rotor was mounted without the key in there.

As far as the reg-rec issues go, I'd say your new combined unit is bad. It's not uncommon. Most of those units are cheap, Chinese junk, even though they can cost quite a bit. Many of us "roll our own", so to speak, using an automotive regulator and a rectifier from the electronics world. Much cheaper and more reliable ......

https://www.xs650.com/threads/diy-reg-rec-5twins-and-jim.55842/

I’m not understanding what could be wrong with it though. All of the readings coming from it are all accurate. It’s pushing power as it should. Even when it’s plugged in and the bike’s running the wires from it are reading right.

 

[Its been a long time]

Myself, I would say all bets are off until those brushes and wiring to them is shown to be correct. It doesn't look right to me.

In the OP's other thread I suggested the rotor drive key is missing. Either that or the keyway is machined incorrectly in the rotor.

Question from me to those who know this better than I - OP is disconnecting the red wire from the rec/rec with the bike running. That's going to toast the rec/rec for certain?

 

[Thraxxface]

Myself, I would say all bets are off until those brushes and wiring to them is shown to be correct. It doesn't look right to me.

In the OP's other thread I suggested the rotor drive key is missing. Either that or the keyway is machined incorrectly in the rotor.

Question from me to those who know this better than I - OP is disconnecting the red wire from the rec/rec with the bike running. That's going to toast the rec/rec for certain?

I can’t find a proper diagrahm to confirm whether or not they’re reversed. The OEM is Black and Green. These are Red and Green.

 

[Its been a long time]

I can’t find a proper diagrahm to confirm whether or not they’re reversed. The OEM is Black and Green. These are Red and Green.

Take a meter and tell us which brush has voltage on it. And tell us the resistance between the copper tracks while you're in there.

The left side brush has the wire tail missing?

 

[Jan_P]

Feels uneasy I am with Jim red is hot usually
Every other color wire except Red would be better -- it is asking for trouble mixing black and red
big problems
I am not familiar with the post 80 setup
Cannot se any red entering the Brushes on a Schematic for a 79
and the rotor is a replacement I believe there is a shift in design alternator system 1980
Maybe I am off here Putting it out here --- Post 80 system on a 79 bike ?