'80 Special Refit

So I'm reading up on all the ways people repair the sump filter. Where the original material is still mostly there, just torn, it seems a coat of JB Weld is enough, while others make metal covers out of aluminum or copper. Is there any reason why a patch of fabric, denim for instance, wouldn't do the job just as well? Glued on with JB Weld and coated on the outside with the same stuff, so no fiber bits can get loose. Natural fibers aren't subject to melting in the hot oil as some synthetics might be. It seems to me it should be possible to get such a patch to conform nicely to the surface, being flexible at least until the JB Weld sets up.
 
I see your point, but as I said, I'd be coating the entire surface with JB Weld. It would be like the fibers in a composite material, fiberglass or carbon or whatever... the epoxy should hold it all together.
 
From the description of your filter tear, it doesn't sound like you'll need to add a patch. The screening acts like the matting would in fiberglass. It makes for a very good and strong repair. I've never had a patch fail me and I've been repairing them like this for a good 10 years. The only issue I've encountered is that sometimes a new tear will eventually develop someplace else. That whole right end of the filter around the oil intake port is susceptible to tearing. Patch one spot and another near it may go next. I've begun experimenting with a sheet metal guard or shield for that weak right end. Details are here .....

http://www.xs650.com/threads/sump-filter-guard.52818/
 
Alright, guys, one word: Denim.

Well, denim plus JB Weld. Here's how it went together. First, the filter after degreasing, but before any patching:

XS650-20180904-183211.jpg

As you can see, the tear in the filter is more significant than I remembered. Definitely needs a patch. I should mention that I removed the loose bits after this picture was taken, but before patching.

So here it is:
XS650-20180904-185527.jpg

I cut a patch out of a worn-out pair of shorts, using some of the relatively unworn material inside a pocket. I buttered it up nicely with the slow-setting regular JB Weld and applied it, holding it in place with rubber bands as shown. I removed the yellow rubber band after taking the picture, and wiped off some JB Weld that was on the lower mating surface.

After the inner layer of JB Weld was set up, I took off the rubber bands and used a shop brush to paint more JB Weld on the outside, thinly, but thick enough to secure all loose fibers in place:
XS650-20180905-090205.jpg


And here it is tonight, with the JB Weld completely set up:
XS650-20180905-194809.jpg

I felt around the edges and used sidecutters to trim off a few overly sharp bits, places where a thread coated with JB Weld stiffened into a point. Not so much that I think they will be a problem, but just for the sake of neatness.

This will be going back together tomorrow, and with any luck my oil change will finally be complete.
 
I really don't see what's so controversial here. It's a composite material, an epoxy combined with a fiber base... the only odd thing is that it's a natural fiber rather than a synthetic. The choice of a cotton fiber base seems easy enough, since I want a fiber that won't melt; the other options are metal (like the stainless steel mesh I've seen others use) or a heat-resistant synthetic. But denim is tough, easy to work with, readily available, and suitable for bonding with just about any glue.

No pictures as yet, but I went ahead and attached it to the sump plate. Too tired to finish up... spent my day in medical appointments. Is anything more tiring than just sitting in a hospital or clinic?
 
Well, I took a look this morning; all the JB Weld should be at full strength now, and it feels quite solid. Hopefully I'll get it all back together tonight.
 
The next spot that will probably tear is that small flat area between the magnet and your new patch. You might want to get a jump on that and coat it with JB Weld now.
 
Put it all together today. I had to trim a bit of the denim/JB Weld composite from the upper corner of the filter to get it in (though I think it would have gone "as is" if I hadn't had to work around the kickstand). The gasket I got off of eBay is just a hair big, as I suspected, but not so much that it doesn't fit; I think it will be okay, anyway. We'll find out soon enough.

Reviewing the various threads on oil changes AND the inventory of my local stores, I ended up with 15W-40 Shell Rotella. Filled it up, pulled the choke and started the XS for the first time in about two weeks. Raining, so no test ride today... I hate riding in rain.

Walked off to put stuff away while the bike warmed up; heard it revving, indicating the choke was no longer needed, so I looked over and saw the XS MOVING BACKWARD!!!

egad.

Ran over and realized the vibrations of the engine as it revved were causing the bike to "walk" backward on the centerstand, kind of like those football player figures in the old games. Pushed in the choke and it settled down.

whew.

I listened to the bike for a while, even revved it a little (with my hands on the bars so it wouldn't wander away), and I'm just not hearing any metal-on-metal racket to indicate that the cam chain guide has gotten naked. So I'm hoping the bits I found in the sump are all there are, and that the guide is in fact good for a few thousand more miles; I'd like to make it to 2020 before I rebuild it (or have it rebuilt) as I expect expenses from the Honda next year.

If I haven't screwed anything up, my XS is fresh and ready to run. Still needs the squishy front brake fixed, but until the brake line arrives from China or Mars or wherever I can't work on that. Did get the banjo-bolt-with-bleeder in the mail yesterday, and I have to say I like the looks of it.
 
Solomoriah said:
so I looked over and saw the XS MOVING BACKWARD!!!
Click to expand...

Haha, welcome to the XS650 dance. Have a look at Dude's video.

A chunk of rubber on the floor under the centerstand will keep her still while you tune.
Failing that I have read of guys tying the front wheel to a post with a length of rope. But it might start fishtailing then......:laugh2:
 
You may notice a bit more topend noise with that 40wt. when it gets hot. I tried it but switched back to the normally used 50wt. because of that. Supposedly it keeps things lubed just fine, just allows more "clatter" because it's thinner.
 
I think I can live with a little more noise for 2000 miles. I'll make a concerted effort to get some of the 20W-50 Valvoline before then. I prefer the 10W-40 Valvoline MA2 oil in my TW200 and CB650, and as Wal-Mart carries it, it's no problem to get. Unfortunately, they don't carry 20W-50 ANYTHING.
 

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