81 Barn find!!! low mile XS650

IMHO, completely dismantle the carburetors. Plant to replace the butterfly shaft seals. A JIS screwdriver will help. Diluted Simple Green in your ultrasonic cleaner works perfectly fine for me (mine has a heater).
I'm a big fan of the '81 Special, unless you want a custom. It's slightly more challenging to customize than earlier ones, depending upon what you want to do. That one is going to look pretty awesome just by giving it a bath!
What is a "A JIS screwdriver?
 
I must caution you about trying to start or run the bike without first looking into the carbs. If it was sitting with gas in it all this time, evaporation has turned that into something more the consistency of oil or syrup. A startup attempt will suck that gunk into all the small passageways and plug the carbs up big time. You will have made your carb cleaning project like 10 times harder now.

You'll have to remove at least one carb from that angle bracket to get at the butterfly shaft seals. Yes, those Philips screws used in the angle bracket are tight, and installed with some sort of thread locking compound. Once out, I replace them with Allens. To get them out, you may need some heat (heat gun) and a hand impact to break them loose. After that, my tools of choice are Vessel J.I.S. 1/4" screwdriver bits and a T-handle holder for them .....

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E62NIC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I just realized I have a set. I bought a Mikuni tool kit, It has a number of screwdriver tips, a couple wrenches, a knurled device that accepts the screwdriver bits plus a hole drilled for extra torque, the kit was about $40.00 and they have these screwdriver tips. I thought they were regular Phillips at first. After comparing they are JIS tips, the flat blades are a bit different too, a bit thicker it looks like.
Thanks for all of your help.
Orion
 
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For holding the carb set while trying to remove that bottom angle bracket, I clamp a couple of 2 x 4's to the work bench with a gap between them that the carb set will just fit down into. I remove the tops and slide/diaphragms so the carbs sit nicely upside down. Then you can apply lots of twisting force (or use the hand impact) without the carb set moving all around on you.

And speaking of the hand impact, I'm not sure if the bits are J.I.S. type or not. But, the screws used take the large #3 tip size and I've found normal #3 Philips bits or screwdrivers seem to fit them OK.
 
Plus 1 on the standard #3 phillips working just fine. Dont forget to hit with rust buster or other thin lube, retighten a bit now and then on the way out if the screws put up a real fight.
 
Plus 1 on the standard #3 phillips working just fine. Dont forget to hit with rust buster or other thin lube, retighten a bit now and then on the way out if the screws put up a real fight.
I replace with socket heads. Must use care not to over torque. Socket heads allow for much more leverage and threads in the carb body strip easily.
 
I am mixing some Lucas lube w light oil and kick it/ turn it over w/o the plugs in. Cyl head is dark, like some baked oil on the outside. I hope someone hasn't torqued the head bolts incorrectly, or in the wrong pattern... either way it is easy to grind off a link, replace with a master link while I get the head straightened out. I want to know opinions on cleaning and painting with high temp paint? I know it will make it run a bit hotter, but how much hotter?
 
Warning: Partial Hijack!

Orion61, I too am interested in HT paints with good scratch resistance. In particular, HT paints that do not require stoving to cure.

Note: You can remove the head without having to break the cam chain. When the rocker cover is removed and all tension is off the cam chain you can slide the camshaft bearings off. This then allows you to slip the camshaft out under the chain. Remember to tie some string or wire to the cam chain so it does not drop down between the cylinders. If it drops down it is often easy to hook out with some stiff wire...

...but sometimes the chain links jam together and make retrieving quite difficult.
 
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I do not know the situation in USA
I also know that it is what the owner wants to do with his bike that matters. Its about freedom .No one can tell the other enthusiast what he wants to do
Having said that .That --- A low mileage bike like that in stock condition Would be worth 1.5 x -2 x perhaps 3 times more than a bike that is modified.
Here --- perhaps even more depending on finish. Mint machines at times gets sold for high prices.
Painted and so I am not sure about the correct english word about a Machine not worked on " Unmeched " perhaps " Virgin " maybe ..
Commands higher prices.
A machine that no one has made mechanical work on other than a qualified Mechanic --- commands higher prices especially if you have a service book
from the brand shop .with the paper work stamps I know that is not the case here..
But the overall status looks as if after some cleaning polishing correct pipes and a non dented tank .We are talking substantially higher value than after work and painting of cylinders other modifications.

Personally I also prefer stock .as far as Possible unless some technical reason gives cause for it. Ignition and charging.
The boys that are into Cars are saying
" Everyone can get a restored repainted .. rewelded car .. it is just a Question of money but not everyone can get an original there are fewer of those and disappearing " .

I would not touch that bike .. so much .. not lifting heads and not splitting the top or so.Every human endeavor can go wrong.
cam chain can end a tooth wrong .threads can be stripped .. Leakage ..can come.
I see it somewhat as going to the Doctor, You go there when it is a problem otherwise not..
Maybe 30 -40 -50000 miles further on. ( Miles with a smile on Your face )

But again the others here that knows the USA situation better can come with input. And the owner decides.
My view is that this bike seems to good to open up at this point in time. Damaging value and causing problems perhaps that don't exist now I assume .
 
Looks like a great scoop, well done!
I'd be interested in a pair of the tank badges if available?
Thanks.
 
I see you do have a bit of a head gasket leak going on there. I also see it has the original rubber washers on the outer head nuts. There's a good chance they've come loose because of that and a simple re-torque might cure the leaking. Personally, I like to replace those rubber washers with copper ones. The nuts stay tight better with them.

I wouldn't paint the cylinders. My '83 with the factory blacked out motor heats up quicker and seems to run a bit hotter than my all natural alloy '78.
 
Think I will try a re-torque first, then use try a brass brush and MEK, Methyl Ethyl Ketone. If that doesn't take it off only a grinder will. Stuff is hard to find, if through UPS you have to buy a whole case!
 
If you're talking about the burned on oil from the leak, plain old kerosene will get lots of it off. Then I switch to lacquer thinner for the stubborn stuff. It will clean off a bit easier when warm so final finish may have to wait until you run it a bit. But, most of it should come off cold. Here's my '78 when I started on it. There were more oil stains on the sides which have been mostly cleaned off here. This was all done cold .....

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Here's a side shot. It cleaned up pretty well but I was able to get it even better once I ran the bike and cleaned it again hot .....

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I use a combination of rags, old toothbrushes, and Q-tips, lots of Q-tips, lol.
 
I've already bought the MEK. Have you seen the price of Kerosene lately, It is about 12 bucks a gallon in the Midwest. I remember when we bought it at the Dollar Store at $1.00 a qt, and 50 cents a gal in the mid 70's! 2nd thing I will be checking is the cam chain adjustment! I have seen 2 of 5 t650's I've owned that PO's had screwed then all the way in.
Thanks for taking the time to send me the pics..
 
I've already bought the MEK. Have you seen the price of Kerosene lately, It is about 12 bucks a gallon in the Midwest. I remember when we bought it at the Dollar Store at $1.00 a qt, and 50 cents a gal in the mid 70's! 2nd thing I will be checking is the cam chain adjustment! I have seen 2 of 5 t650's I've owned that PO's had screwed then all the way in.
Thanks for taking the time to send me the pics..

Hi Orion
try parts washing with diesel fuel, it's perhaps 2% more costly than gasoline and has way less fire risk.
 
I was lucky enough to find a very low mile nearly all original 1981 XS650! when I pulled the cover off I couldn't believe the over all condition, an added front chrome foot peg set. It comes with a REAL leather set of Saddle bags. Nothing has been taken off so it is a survivor. the bad is dimples (nickle size) on each size of the tank with some bending of the flasher mounts on each side. carbs need cleaned, but I have a 6 liter ultrasonic cleaner.
I have have a gallon of chem dip but it is getting old, don't know how long it lasts?
O also have 5 quarts of Methyl Ethyl-MEK.. I don't know if that be could be used? I do know any rubber parts
the floats and all the brass jets would need to be removed.
The longer I see it the more I am falling for it, there are only a bit over 9.000 miles on the bike, chain sprocket and tires look new. I checked the oil and not only was it full it looked like it has just been changed! less corroding fumes! The next "YAY" moment was when I did a cold compression test and L cyl was 151, and R cyl was 149.. I couldn't get fuel to the carbs but pulled the filter boxes and sprayed some fresh gas from a spray bottle, Battery is new and it popped off after only about 3rrd turn over by the starter. tank doesn't look rusty I was told their dad was a Sea Foam and Staybill addict. The guy that cast resin the Triumph tank badges with Yamaha in Triumph script the middle gave me the rest of his
'rejects" which are easily cleaned up, enough for 3 or 4 sets, he also gave me a pewter set of the Trumph script that I could cut out the Resin to fit.. when I am done I'll probably have a couple extra sets I'd be happy to pass on (If I can get the sellers OK....

I want to tank all of you SX\TX 650 lovers that have helped me in the past. Even tho my first TX650 was back in 1985.
Thank you very much.
Larry Beach



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I was lucky enough to find a very low mile nearly all original 1981 XS650! when I pulled the cover off I couldn't believe the over all condition, an added front chrome foot peg set. It comes with a REAL leather set of Saddle bags. Nothing has been taken off so it is a survivor. the bad is dimples (nickle size) on each size of the tank with some bending of the flasher mounts on each side. carbs need cleaned, but I have a 6 liter ultrasonic cleaner.
I have have a gallon of chem dip but it is getting old, don't know how long it lasts?
O also have 5 quarts of Methyl Ethyl-MEK.. I don't know if that be could be used? I do know any rubber parts
the floats and all the brass jets would need to be removed.
The longer I see it the more I am falling for it, there are only a bit over 9.000 miles on the bike, chain sprocket and tires look new. I checked the oil and not only was it full it looked like it has just been changed! less corroding fumes! The next "YAY" moment was when I did a cold compression test and L cyl was 151, and R cyl was 149.. I couldn't get fuel to the carbs but pulled the filter boxes and sprayed some fresh gas from a spray bottle, Battery is new and it popped off after only about 3rrd turn over by the starter. tank doesn't look rusty I was told their dad was a Sea Foam and Staybill addict. The guy that cast resin the Triumph tank badges with Yamaha in Triumph script the middle gave me the rest of his
'rejects" which are easily cleaned up, enough for 3 or 4 sets, he also gave me a pewter set of the Trumph script that I could cut out the Resin to fit.. when I am done I'll probably have a couple extra sets I'd be happy to pass on (If I can get the sellers OK....

I want to tank all of you SX\TX 650 lovers that have helped me in the past. Even tho my first TX650 was back in 1985.
Thank you very much.
Larry Beach



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Same year and model as mine. Got mine with 1080 miles on it this fall. I have a sissy bar which I think may have been an original option.
 

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