It is what it is. As my sister told me "getting old isn't for sissies".
I suppose it could be worse.
I suppose it could be worse.
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81 Special
- Thread starter GLJ
- Start date
Yes, the Special frame rides and handles nicely. I think the more laid down shock angle triangulates better and makes for a stiffer rear end mount. I added the stiffer TX750 swingarm to mine but it didn't seem to make as much of a difference as it did on my '78 Standard. The 16" rear wheel also rides and handles nicely. I switched to an 18" shortly after getting the bike because I read it handled better, basically steered quicker. Well, I didn't find that to be true. The 16" doesn't hurt the steering and is actually more stable at speed, and it looks better on the bike in my opinion. So, I've switched back.
Yes, the stock handlebars gotta go, lol. I like the Euro bar bend and put them on all my bikes. Lower but not too low, and the way they droop down slightly on the ends is very, very comfortable. It turns your wrists to a more natural (and comfortable) angle. The front forks can be "fixed" by doing the Minton Mods to them, adding about a 3/4" preload spacer, and about one ounce more oil. A fork brace helps as well. The front brake can be "fixed" by drilling the disc, changing to a one piece stainless line, installing better pads, and switching to a slightly smaller MC. For the seat, a 1980 one will swap right on and doesn't have the huge (ugly) hump, lol.
Yes, the stock handlebars gotta go, lol. I like the Euro bar bend and put them on all my bikes. Lower but not too low, and the way they droop down slightly on the ends is very, very comfortable. It turns your wrists to a more natural (and comfortable) angle. The front forks can be "fixed" by doing the Minton Mods to them, adding about a 3/4" preload spacer, and about one ounce more oil. A fork brace helps as well. The front brake can be "fixed" by drilling the disc, changing to a one piece stainless line, installing better pads, and switching to a slightly smaller MC. For the seat, a 1980 one will swap right on and doesn't have the huge (ugly) hump, lol.
Been doing it for years also.Just makes small pits a bit less conspicuous after a complete cleanup like Greg has done is what I’ve found.His look great.No scientific answer why either.
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Gpaws1968
XS650 Enthusiast
So, do I need a .5mm drill for the hole?
Well, that's what GLJ did (#60 drill bit), and it seems to have worker for him, but I still suggest poking with a thin single strand of thin copper wire as shown in my picture, post #38, with some solvent in the hole, and some patience. Also read Gary's post #39.
You reminded me I have been remiss with this thread I didn't post pics when I got done. I'll fix that.
Also I didn't post a lot of what got done after I got the carbs working. I'll be posting some of the things I had to do.
As I got it. Doesn't look real bad. It's not as nice as these 2 pics make it look.
As it is now. More or less finished. I may do some polishing on the engine side covers.
I'll also be posting pics taken during the rehab processes.
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I did work for me, it does make the chock richer. I'm still experimenting with how much chock to give it when cold. It starts on full chock but you have to go to 1/2 chock pretty quickly.
I would only do it again as a last resort with the #60 drill bit. If I could find a bit that would reach that was the same size or just slightly bigger it would be a better fix.
As I mentioned earlier (page 2, post #40), I've never needed to poke the choke jet to clear it. Those long needle tips for your blowgun work every time.
I need to get some of those needle tips. I had an XJ650 carb that has a TINI TINY jet in the bowl that one of the 4 was clogged. Finally got it out with an acupuncture needle.
Yes, anyone who cleans carbs should have a set, along with that tapered rubber tip. But there's places the rubber tip won't get into, or can't be made to seal, and that's where these needle tips come into play. Find the size that will fit down into that step where the choke jet is and you get a terrific blast of air directly into the jet. Like I said, I've never needed to poke one clear, this very high pressure air blast has always done the trick.
Where do you buy an air gun with such tips? I think I need to get one.
All you really need are the tips. They'll thread into most any blowgun. Try Amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YRKJ3H6/ref=pe_386300_440135490_TE_simp_item_image
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YRKJ3H6/ref=pe_386300_440135490_TE_simp_item_image
I’ll bet I could cut the end off a needle for inflating balls and thread that into my air gun fitting. I’ll have to check that out.
Thanks. The air guns I normally use don’t have removable tips. I think I have one in my tool box in the garage that might fit these tips…
Your day will come.
Do enough carbs from ratty old barn bikes and it'll happen. 
I think the immovable plug I found was from a set where the guy Permatexed the gaskets or petcocks. After that crap dissolves, then hardens in the bottom of the float bowls with some tank rust, debris, it's near epoxy.PS I have the blow gun needles, came in some generic airgun set. The threads on the airguns do vary.
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LOL,
I just realized I had something already. I did get it long after I was doing any carb work though.
Got it to get air under the stock grips for easier removal
I just realized I had something already. I did get it long after I was doing any carb work though.
Got it to get air under the stock grips for easier removal
The 81 Special has gone to it's new home. I did have to take a bike in on trade.
It may look familiar.
It may look familiar.
Nice. You came out ahead, regardless of any issues with the XS2.
No issues with it. Runs as well as it ever did.
