81 XS650 hard tail build thread

[miketweedie]

Thanks guys. I am currently using a 110VAC MIG. I have a nice 220 machine, but no way of powering it at the moment. I pitched the idea of moving the dryer into the hall and using the laundry room as a workshop, but the minister of domestic affairs had some choice words for me on that proposal.

@jpdevol I think you're right that the .25" plate is overkill, I just have a large piece of it in the metal bin and figured it saved me a trip to the store. I drilled the appropriate radius into it with a step-bit, so it hugs the frame tightly, then cut it to the right shape, but frankly it might be easier to just start over with thinner material. My tank bungs, seat mount, coil bracket etc. all welded up nicely and survived the "smash it with a hammer" test, but this piece of plate just seems too thick to get penetration.

I'll grab some pics this afternoon and look for your feedback. Fully aware of the harsh comments that might ensue, haha.

Thanks again.

 

[jpdevol]

The other possible source of 240VAC power - often closer to shop garage is the Air Conditioner compressor (they typically have a convenient disconnect)

 

[miketweedie]

The other possible source of 240VAC power - often closer to shop garage is the Air Conditioner compressor (they typically have a convenient disconnect)

Ha, that would work fantastically well if I had A/C!
I reside in Calgary, AB Canada where the average temp is below 38F more than 6 months of the year. Gas heater in the garage was a more practical investment!

 

[miketweedie]

ok, a couple pics. this was after removing it again (it was on solid, but like an idiot I missed my alignment mark and had to re-do it). Only tacked the front side this time and it looks like it penetrated better. For fear of having to do it AGAIN I let it cool down and ground off a bit of the filler to get the MC to fit. thoughts? sorry for the light, its sunny today and I was rushing. I'm not opposed to cutting it off and starting over with thinner steel, if that's the correct decision. Thanks in advance.

 

[jpdevol]

I'm not the welding expert around here, but if the MC fits well, I'd be tempted to let it be, tack the other side and test it. The tubing thickness should be dictating the settings - I'm guessing 19.5-20V and 270-280ipm using .035 wire 75/25??

 

[miketweedie]

I'm not the welding expert around here, but if the MC fits well, I'd be tempted to let it be, tack the other side and test it. The tubing thickness should be dictating the settings - I'm guessing 19.5-20V and 270-280ipm using .035 wire 75/25??

I'll be completely honest, I don't have all those answers. I bought the machine off a friend who upgraded, and his comment was "there is a fresh spool in there, so you are good to go". As I learn more about this, I realize that there are a lot of variables to consider with "good to go" haha.

The machine is an older Century mig, similar to the current Mig Pak 140. The voltage control gives me the options of positions 1-4 and wire speed 1-8. To get it to penetrate as above I was on voltage setting 4 and wire speed at about 1.5

The existing wire (I have just discovered) was .024 which is probably too light. I have an 8" spool of .030 that I will swap in there today.

The gas is a 75/25, that part I know.

 

[jpdevol]

Hmmm, I'd be making a long-ass extension cord to reach the dryer plug

.030 may be better

 

[Jim]

My MIG is an old 110v Hobart that don't like the thick stuff either, but it will work. Not sayin' this is the correct way, but here's how I do it....

Run a bead around the tube and bracket. Just straight line start to finish. Don't worry if it pops and sputters as it goes, it ain't stickin' much anyway. The only point to it is it's putting some heat into the workpiece. Now go back over it and weave the bead across the joint as you go.... perpendicular to the first bead. Like a baseball stich. Make sure you're pushing the wire and not dragging it. That directs more heat ahead of the weld.. where you want it.
I've welded some pretty thick stuff over the years using that technique.
Ymmv.

Also, since the bracket is thicker than the tubing, kinda shade the wire more towards the bracket... where more heat is needed. That make sense?

 

[miketweedie]

My MIG is an old 110v Hobart that don't like the thick stuff either, but it will work. Not sayin' this is the correct way, but here's how I do it....

Run a bead around the tube and bracket. Just straight line start to finish. Don't worry if it pops and sputters as it goes, it ain't stickin' much anyway. The only point to it is it's putting some heat into the workpiece. Now go back over it and weave the bead across the joint as you go.... perpendicular to the first bead. Like a baseball stich. Make sure you're pushing the wire and not dragging it. That directs more heat ahead of the weld.. where you want it.
I've welded some pretty thick stuff over the years using that technique.
Ymmv.

Also, since the bracket is thicker than the tubing, kinda shade the wire more towards the bracket... where more heat is needed. That make sense?

That is a huge help, thank you! Consistently impressed and thankful for the guys on this forum. I'm active on a couple other forums (vintage VW and modern European cars) and it is difficult to post anything without adorning your flame suit first. Much appreciated.

 

[miketweedie]

It works! Need to finish the welds, get some good quality hardware, etc. but it appears to function nicely.

https://imgur.com/PSKdDFy

 

[miketweedie]

More of a heads up than an update...

I just received my Mr. Lucky's 32T Harley rear sprocket in the mail, allowing me to run a HD spoked rear wheel and keep everything in line for gear ratios.

When I initially ordered it they were on backorder, but Ed emailed me back right away and let me know he would keep in touch. 2 months later he sent me a reply telling me the manufacturer of the sprockets was discontinuing them and he had purchased all the limited inventory. I grabbed one, and he shipped it right away. Packaging was amazing, and it came with a nice note and some stickers.

For those of you planning/wanting to run a HD rear wheel, I would strongly recommend reaching out sooner than later, as these may become hard to find. 100% recommend Ed for his top notch service.

 

[miketweedie]

Well, still no updates that require mentioning, however...

TC Bros has a sweet sale at the moment, which ends tomorrow. I snagged a 21" spool wheel and some assorted little bits I needed, and they were all nicely discounted. Better still, they shipped it all to Canada in 3 days, and I didnt get absolutely MURDERED on customs brokerage. For reference, it is not uncommon to ship parts from the USA and pay more than 50% of the original cost in brokerage, so this was a massive win. If anyone needs stuff to finish a build, I'd suggest taking a look before tomorrow.

In other news, wheel spacers are being built now. Rear brake setup is complete and functioning, but I need to fabricate a nicer looking brake stay for the rear caliper. Once I am happy with it I'll likely scrap the soft line and fab up a hard line to clean it up. Still not 100% on tires, which means I can't figure out the fender quite yet. Still torn on the endless debate between battery or kick, which I need to decide on soon. It would really clean everything up to remove the battery, but the electric leg has its perks. My powder coating guy helped pick a color for the frame, so once fab is complete I'll tear it down and get it to him.

I'll probably refinish the engine when I pull it all apart, as it needs a good cleaning.

Lots to do, but with 24" of snow on the ground outside there really isn't any "rush". All in all, a fairly pointless update, but wanted to share the scoop on the sale as it might help someone pull the trigger on that one thing they've been looking for.