A plethora of electrical gremlins

Highpower

XS650 Enthusiast
Messages
58
Reaction score
266
Points
53
Location
Tennessee
This is something of a cautionary tale about 40+ year old wiring and electrical components:

I finally got my '79 running yesterday but it wasn't without a struggle. In my old age I have decided that I like my bikes to be mostly stock with the exception of maybe a seat or handlebar change. That way I can look at the repair manual and (hopefully) figure out what the issue is. I have built many a chopper in my time and can make wiring harnesses with little difficulty, but there is something to be said about being able to look at a stock wiring diagram when troubleshooting electrical issues. This is especially true when you work on a bike that was rewired by someone else.

My first baffling problem was I couldn't get the turn signals to work. I traced the initial issue to the safety relay assembly, power went in, but nothing came out. Replaced that with a used one that worked, but still no joy. Occasionally the right side would light up, but not the left. The wiring on the entire bike was unmolested except for the missing fuse block which I replaced with a new/used replacement unit. I repeatedly went through the rats nest of wires in the headlight shell, but it everything was conducting electricity properly except from the turn switch to the lights. While checking the turn signal switch I noticed that I had intermittent power and took the switch apart.

Surprise! all three of the wires that go to the fiberboard component that switches power between the left and right signals had come off their terminals. These guys are soldered on and I was expecting a broken wire not a bad solder joint. I disassembled the switch, resoldered the wires and shazam, the signals now work properly. What it looks like is bad QC at the factory as a properly soldered connection is permanent unless subjected to large amounts of heat and there was no indications that caused them to come undone.

Yesterday was the big day, after three weeks of waiting for parts and then doing a thorough valve, point and static timing pre start routine, the bike wouldn't start. I went back through the various things that make an engine run and the spark seemed a bit weak. Checking showed low voltage at the coils After much checking of wires with a OHM meter and a fair amount of head scratching, on a whim I checked the kill switch on the handlebar pod and low and behold, there was battery voltage at the brown, power in wire, but only 10.2 volts coming out at the R/W wire. When I went to take it out to clean the terminals it self destructed. I tied the wires together until I get a new switch and tucked them away in the pod.

I won't get into how the cheap new petcocks (that were on the bike when I got it) leaked liked a couple of sieves and took much massaging to get one to stop pouring gas out. On the other I had to make a block off packing gasket as the original one had been installed poorly at whichever factory in China made it and was damaged.

Once it fired off it was music to my ears. the motor is quiet mechanically and there was zero smoke out of either side. The trumpet muffles sound awesome, if a bit loud inside the house and while it still needs to have the timing set with a light and the carbs properly synced, it settled down to a nice ide @1000 rpm after it warmed up.

Poor picture before start up. I will take some beauty shots when I have a decent backdrop.
IMG_1463_Fotor-XL.jpg


Where I started from on May 1st after sitting for 12 years. I gave it a much needed pressure washing just before I took this pic with my phone:
IMG_1445_Fotor-XL.jpg
 
Nice!
Yeah the switch solder blobs is a thing on these bikes. After bulb sockets/filaments and correct dark green, chocolate, black bullet connections in the headlight bucket it's my next check.
Good work and good philosophy! My main ride has a PO's custom wiring jobs with many changes by me, it's always fun figuring out the circuits when troubleshooting.
 
It's a good reminder that 50 year old bikes do need some attention to be even half reliable. On my previously badly neglected 77 650D I have overhauled the ignition switch and both handlebar switches. I didn't find broken soldered connections, but did find rusty and broken springs inside the switches. Given a good clean up, new parts as required and lubrication with dielectric grease the switches now have low voltage drop and operate nicely. They are probably going to be fine for another fifty years.

I proactively replaced the near 50 year old electrical bits that can leave me stranded by the road side, fitting modern equivalents where possible. Rectifier and regulator, flasher unit for example. Other stuff like indicator self cancelling, light checker, reserve light unit etc... all have been deleted. I've tried to make the electrical systems as robust as I can. Time will tell if I've succeeded.
 
One of the charms(?) of these old bikes is the adventure they provide with never knowing if you are going to have a trouble free ride. When I first started riding motorcycles back in the late 60's. One of my first bikes was a 1959 Panhead that was totally worn out and the wiring was in terrible condition. Needless to say I broke down every time I left the house. All-in-all a real time lesson in roadside repairs.
 
Back
Top