Thanks for the heads up. I definitely saught out koyo. It wasn't easy I had to look up sizes in hanes manual. I'll look em up on this site as well and see what is more practical.
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About to order next week or 2, looking for opinions.
- Thread starter joebgd
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The supposed mechanic seems to like trolling, (without any facts), whenever someone has an opinion that differs to his.
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Are caltrec or niche bearings made in Japan or anywhere but china? I found a couple sites w koyo, one from a reply in this thread, I was set on koyo. The thing is Amazon has sets w bearings and seals. In the two prior said brands. It would be easier to get seals and bearings in a set otherwise it's two different suppliers one for seals other for koyo bearings.
Edit Amazon has a niche set for both wheels. Any comments or thoughts or information on these 2 brands will be greatly appreciated, I'm trying to order them and the sprocket asap?
Edit Amazon has a niche set for both wheels. Any comments or thoughts or information on these 2 brands will be greatly appreciated, I'm trying to order them and the sprocket asap?
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Niche is American made according to them, they have plants in Georgia and Canada. The set from them directly or Amazon is ab 30$ fr and rr, the koyo are 52$ then I'm ordering the seals from a different site for probably another 30$. I was set on koyo now idk. As of now I plan on koyo and oem seals. I'll be going from a 30t to a 32t sprocket at same time. I put the 30 pretty quick I didn't ride much on the 34. I do feel for me the 30 is better just zero power in 5th. For street and I have a family country home 175mi away, plus I work in Manhattan. I rarely ride to work tho. so that is what I'm most considering. I feel I'll like the 32 allot better.
The seals are 42+5tax+10shipping, I'm looking at 57$ for seals they are oem so idk this is a huge price discrepancy. If it was 20ish I'd 100% go koyo. With niche being American made tho...they are priced much closer to Chinese, I recently read China is much improved with bearing quality as of late. Hmmmm decisions!
The seals are 42+5tax+10shipping, I'm looking at 57$ for seals they are oem so idk this is a huge price discrepancy. If it was 20ish I'd 100% go koyo. With niche being American made tho...they are priced much closer to Chinese, I recently read China is much improved with bearing quality as of late. Hmmmm decisions!
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This is what I got from www.qualitybearingsonline.com
I spent 100 days working in a Koyo plant. Their commitment to quality impressed me a great deal. For me, Koyo is always the first and best choice.
FWIW, once upon a time choosing bearings to buy was pretty simple. Buy any brand made in USA, Japan or Western Europe. Ignore everything else.
Alas, the world today is not so simple. We now need to buy by brand name but at the same time choose your retailer very carefully. Most major bearing brands are widely counterfeited. None more than SKF. To the extent that SKF have a facility to determine if you have genuine SKF bearings or not.
Where you buy your bearings from is of the highest importance. I actually do tend to avoid SKF bearings even though I only buy from a reputable source.
My go to brands are (in no particular order) FAG, NTN, NSK, KOYO and SKF. And for taper roller bearings add Timken to the list. All those brands manufacture globally and without exception quality is excellent. Buy any of those brands from a reputable supplier and you have no concerns.
Alas, the world today is not so simple. We now need to buy by brand name but at the same time choose your retailer very carefully. Most major bearing brands are widely counterfeited. None more than SKF. To the extent that SKF have a facility to determine if you have genuine SKF bearings or not.
Where you buy your bearings from is of the highest importance. I actually do tend to avoid SKF bearings even though I only buy from a reputable source.
My go to brands are (in no particular order) FAG, NTN, NSK, KOYO and SKF. And for taper roller bearings add Timken to the list. All those brands manufacture globally and without exception quality is excellent. Buy any of those brands from a reputable supplier and you have no concerns.
Thanks all for the advice on a question that I didn't ask but needed to, I just got a set of "AllBalls" sealed bearings for the sportster that I just re-acquired. I have been replacing a lot of tires on my bikes that have expired (most were almost old enough to vote) and checking the bearings as well. The Sporty's bearings feel like a selector switch that clicks as you spin them. I'm no mechanic but pretty sure that they are not supposed to do that so I'm replacing them. Also, thanks for asking the question Joe
Thanks, well it's either koyo because you know, and that was my original plan, niche came into picture because I don't know much about them and the expense difference is considerable considerable and much more convenient.
I really want to change the rears, I was doing the fronts just as a matter of course. I'm changing course and doing the rears. Fronts seem tight and roll lose. Unless someone has input my gut is telling me stick w original plan and go koyo. Also keeping the drive chain for now. I have other items I'm getting I'm just trying to keep the thread on track. I can order the bearings any time. Then I'll ask about things from other suppliers, well im getting emulsion tubes also the 4 I have are all out of round, the vacume pulls the needle to the front and walers out the tubes. The only needle I see is the adjustable one, which is fine, I'll set it as close as possible to the stock favoring shorter(richer) out the slide. They offer Canadian and American style tubes, Canadian are described as being riche. So any information comments or thoughts on that as well. I'll ask about next batch of good after I'm done w these two suppliers. One is tubes bearings and sprocket other is bearing grease seals.
I really want to change the rears, I was doing the fronts just as a matter of course. I'm changing course and doing the rears. Fronts seem tight and roll lose. Unless someone has input my gut is telling me stick w original plan and go koyo. Also keeping the drive chain for now. I have other items I'm getting I'm just trying to keep the thread on track. I can order the bearings any time. Then I'll ask about things from other suppliers, well im getting emulsion tubes also the 4 I have are all out of round, the vacume pulls the needle to the front and walers out the tubes. The only needle I see is the adjustable one, which is fine, I'll set it as close as possible to the stock favoring shorter(richer) out the slide. They offer Canadian and American style tubes, Canadian are described as being riche. So any information comments or thoughts on that as well. I'll ask about next batch of good after I'm done w these two suppliers. One is tubes bearings and sprocket other is bearing grease seals.
No doubt that's what we do here. Learn from one another's threads posts and replies. I'm going for tip top shape because I'm going to aquire another stock post 80s that's when this one gets 750 power plant, port polish and over size valves. I like the specials 1980 on.
I am getting the adjustable needle for the bs34s. I'm thinking i should get the emulsion jet that matches it. So it's going to be the Canadian style set up. I'll start w one step up on the piolet, when im cruising i don't really need more fuel, when I'm in traffic I want every advantage to keep it cool so the extra fuel won't hurt when I'm running off the piolet. Okay about to put this order through, bearings, emulsion tube and needle, rear sprocket. Next is rear shocks stock length, i like the slim line look but am open to any suggestions for street use without spending more money than I need to. There are some bumps, rough roads and potholes around here. That's what I need to deal with, not racing or looking for extra high performance. Any experience suggestions or information will be appreciated. I see inexpensive ones for about 100, or hagons for about 200. Who has what and would you recommend them?
FWIW, I definitely rate Hagon shocks. For the money you can't really do better, they're still UK made too. Not from some Asian sweat shop.
I know im going inexpensive. On shocks im trying these.
https://www.amazon.com/GZYF-Motorcy...08d-aca1-f481fae0a7b4&pd_rd_i=B00XVH4B72&th=1
A review stated the tank is real they say there is a small amount of
Nitrogen in there. Can I ad air presure? To this type if so ho much psi?
Also going w 12.7 on mc bore instead of 11. I want to try these adjustable levers brake and clutch. As far as the shocks go says rated up to 750 one review has them on sportster. I like the idea of the tuning of the air tank (Nitrogen) tank. I'd just use air if it's same as tire valve im thinking like 7psi idk.
https://www.amazon.com/GZYF-Motorcy...08d-aca1-f481fae0a7b4&pd_rd_i=B00XVH4B72&th=1
A review stated the tank is real they say there is a small amount of
Nitrogen in there. Can I ad air presure? To this type if so ho much psi?
Also going w 12.7 on mc bore instead of 11. I want to try these adjustable levers brake and clutch. As far as the shocks go says rated up to 750 one review has them on sportster. I like the idea of the tuning of the air tank (Nitrogen) tank. I'd just use air if it's same as tire valve im thinking like 7psi idk.
The mc seems official, idk about the clutch perch, I'll probably give it a shot. Same woubly pivot as xs and I changed that already to a kawasaki clutch perch. So I'll try it maybe w the clutch presure on it won't seem so wobly. The shocks look good as well although now I saw some air shocks w no tank and adjustable rebound colar, either way should be light years ahead of 50yr old shocks. I changed the fork oil when I got the bike and it looked like black watery mess. I'm going to use actual 15w fork oil and preload caps I have 3 positions if that doesn't doesn't get me where I want I'll get new springs. I think the springs are okay though. I think i have the preload at mid position. I don't remember what I used for oil I think 10w30. Ordered koyo rear bearings oem oil seals and 32t sprocket as well as emulsion tube and matching needle. The emulsion tubes in my carbs are wallered out. It happens fast. Within id say 12k miles that needle rubbing one side of tube is already starting to misshape the tube. I have a set w 16k and it is very visibly out of round. I bought a set of plastic float bs34s w possibly less miles, one carb was smashed and cracked, same issue. I kind of got beat on that deal, told the guy I needed the bodies because my choke rod detent doesn't work due to cracked housing where ball goes on original carb. Paid 50 they he never said the right carb is cracked, I wanted the plastic floats and float bowls w nipple to check fuel level, I boogered that extraction operation. Any tips on measuring fuel level w original no nipple fuel bowls?
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FWIW, I found 15W fork oil in stock shocks to be too slow. Belray is my brand. 10W decreased the harshness of the bumps. I also use a higher oil level in the forks.
There’s a kit sold on eBay for the float bowls. It’s clear tubing with a fitting that screws into the bottom of the bowls. I have done this process by simply cramming the tubes into the drain. It is fiddly, especially with four carburetors, but certainly not impossible.
https://ebay.us/m/R6NcI8
There’s a kit sold on eBay for the float bowls. It’s clear tubing with a fitting that screws into the bottom of the bowls. I have done this process by simply cramming the tubes into the drain. It is fiddly, especially with four carburetors, but certainly not impossible.
https://ebay.us/m/R6NcI8
Sweet, thanks for the info. I feel like setting float hight is good seeing fuel level is better. I'm almost sure I've had seat valves that didn't close. Idk if it was float height. Now I'll gain more information. I had the pc on prime at gas station once and fuel leaked out air box. Idk how, well being inpatient, which I can say is an old trait, I have patience now, thanks universe. I digress a carb was so buggered I had to mangle the brass float just to let no gas through and rode about 25-26 miles on one cylinder. I couldn't even keep up w traffic lol. I'll try the 10w fork oil. I haven't done any mods and I would like them smoother. I'll take your advice she sees all size of bumps holes and pavement. They where never as bad as the rear shocks so w proper oil and preset I anticipate good results.
I use 130 mm as my oil level. It helps a lot with dive under hard braking. Fork collapsed and spring removed, add oil until it’s 130 mm from the top. A give or take 10 mm should be fine.
Has anyone ever converted 2 of a set of 4 bs34s to use on an sx. I see kawasaki used a set of 4 of same carbs on my bike.
When I first worked on my bike I didn't realize they came off in a set. I broke where the detent ball is held, cracked the casing so it won't hold the ball. I have I believe a good left on left as said won't hold detent ball. And the better of two rights on w broken left. One right looks like a tree fell on it the other is on the bike w broken detent left. The top few threads of air mix screw are ng, it does hold the screw where needed. If memory is right all said prior, I plan to take the sets apart so the choke rod will work. Expecting carb and rear tire parts today.
Marty, any specific place in the states to get that particular fork oil? I don't have enough experience with forks to know if brand matters. If you trust it though I'd feel safer with something used by us forum fellas.
When I first worked on my bike I didn't realize they came off in a set. I broke where the detent ball is held, cracked the casing so it won't hold the ball. I have I believe a good left on left as said won't hold detent ball. And the better of two rights on w broken left. One right looks like a tree fell on it the other is on the bike w broken detent left. The top few threads of air mix screw are ng, it does hold the screw where needed. If memory is right all said prior, I plan to take the sets apart so the choke rod will work. Expecting carb and rear tire parts today.
Marty, any specific place in the states to get that particular fork oil? I don't have enough experience with forks to know if brand matters. If you trust it though I'd feel safer with something used by us forum fellas.
Two carbs off a set of four? Sounds like a world of pain to me.
Fork oil - My take, I buy the cheapest fork oil of the grade I want. I ignore oil brand names.
Fork oil - My take, I buy the cheapest fork oil of the grade I want. I ignore oil brand names.
You should use the same brand name always. Viscosity is not consistent between brands.
Anyone know where to get oem foot peg rubber dampers? Made a few mistakes when I 1st got the bike. I didn't know oem from Chinese....I bought knock off rubber dampers, they didn't last a year I wish I kept the oem. I bought some rubber bits from mikes and rgreted it a season later. The peg dampers are worst tho, I have extra washers trying to squeeze the bs ones. I would love quality dampers and maybe even new pegs, a different style or change oem rubber. The right side is wore.