About to order next week or 2, looking for opinions.

jetmechmarty said:
You should use the same brand name always. Viscosity is not consistent between brands.
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Found the bellray easy, im going to put it on my next Amazon order. Also I specifically ordered from a site advertising koyo and got kss or something like that I'll post pics tomorrow box says Kentucky on it and I know there are American made bearings, there is nothing about them that appears Chinese so I'm going with it. I'll pull one side seal put some quality grease in.
Edit the bearings are kbs, a company founded in the states. They seem legit.
 
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joebgd said:
Anyone know where to get oem foot peg rubber dampers? Made a few mistakes when I 1st got the bike. I didn't know oem from Chinese....I bought knock off rubber dampers, they didn't last a year I wish I kept the oem. I bought some rubber bits from mikes and rgreted it a season later. The peg dampers are worst tho, I have extra washers trying to squeeze the bs ones. I would love quality dampers and maybe even new pegs, a different style or change oem rubber. The right side is wore.
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Have you tried CMSL?
 
Cmsl has them, it has a part # and a cmsl product # which leads me to believe they are not oem. The price reflects oem though.
I have free flowing intake w stock exhaust. Every one who sells these Canadian emulsion tubes, only ones I can find says they are richer. I think i am going to go up one step on the mains. Idk how more bleed holes makes it richer, I would think less so the fuel comes into the venturi. I need to research how emulsion tubes work. Or maybe one step up on piolets?....
 
I think the Canadian needle jets are actually a little leaner because they have more air bleed holes down the sides. But, combined with the much richer Canadian needle, the result is still a richer than stock midrange.
 
5twins said:
I think the Canadian needle jets are actually a little leaner because they have more air bleed holes down the sides. But, combined with the much richer Canadian needle, the result is still a richer than stock midrange.
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That's what I was wondering. Makes sense because they do seem to mention for use with Canadian needle or if needle advert states used with Canadian needle jet.

I was just messing around with some carb parts, the adjustable needles I have in my shed, clip on the lowest notch is even w fixed position clip needle. So as I raise the clip notch by notch it is longer than the fixed clip needle. Immediately one notch up makes needle longer than fixed clip needle. I found that interesting, the needle longer would mean the slide would have to come up more to let more fuel mix in. The profiles don't look different by eye either.

I was wrong about being able to make one good set of bs34s out of the two sets I have, it's the left one of the spare set that has a piece cracked off. Looks like I'll still be using a mini spring clamp to hold the enricner open.

I pulled a seal off one of my new bearings. Looks like clear as can be grease with the consistency of Vaseline maybe....def be pushing some quality grease into them.
 
Remember, don't totally fill them or the excess will just ooze out and make a mess (DAHIK, lol). I only fill them about half way.

Yes, a longer needle is a leaner needle. What adjustable needle do you have? Here's a chart with specs for all the 650 needles. I also included the XS400 5Z1 because I've found it works pretty good in the '78-'79 BS38s. Although I haven't tried it, it may also work in the BS34s ......

XS650CarbNeedleSpecs.jpg
 
I have 5x 11 i believe and y o Canadian jet. All adverts say they are a match.
I see the x11 is richer. Great pic.

On the bearings, I have red grease available the Lucas grease says red and tacky, the mobile red I have I didn't just read the lable on, I probably have enough green grease in the mini gun I use.
Idk if tacky and wheel bearings go together. I'd use tacky on swing arm and steering. Am i over thinking it, just mobile red and go?
 
I found the foot peg dampers oem, over 100$ for 4 of them. I wish I could find the oem that came on my 50 yr old bike. They are still better than mikes where 6mos later.
Anyone have a lead on acceptable rubber bits replacement parts. The foot peg rubber mounts must have been used on other models. If I was working I'd go for the hundy.

Soon hopefully I'll be back to work soon, asking for positive vibes about work. Please guys anyone can send the universe some work vibes for me I'd appreciate it.
 
What about using some of that ws2 powder lubricant mixed in w grease on rear wheel bearings?
Im going from 30-32 sprocket also w rear wheeel off mayswell disassemble and lube swing arm and center stand bolts. I want to investigate s a anyway, I know allot more about it now than just change bushings.
 
I'm getting a bott6of ws2, I'm using it on bearings, not steering, rear wheeel bearings, chain,
I need to get to my ignition switch it's cracked mostly works but I know it intermittent looses contact as I'm riding. I glued it w pl extreme once what I could reach. I'm going to take off obsurities and probably take it right out and have my 1st jb weld experience. I trust pl extreme pain if done in hand like that however, I want a good two part gluing epoxy. Any recommendations on jb weld like products or just stick w the og jb?
That ws2 is crazy I remember reading on here about it and just recently did another dive, I'll probably put some in my clutch cable. I know i need to lube my clutch cable anyway....
 
I'm having trouble finding led bulbs for the piolet box they are tiny round base? do the gages use same size? And license plate stab ins, I'll pull one tomorrow, I have a few w a similar base to that from when I changed my travel trailer bulbs. They might be a Lil big for plate lights tho. Any help on what the tiny base #is for piolet box and or a link to led bulbs that size? I think i found blinker and tail leds. Im leaning to changing the entire tail light to a running light brake light blinker combo I saw at auto zone.
 
I greatly prefer O ring chains and have never had an issue with any o-ring chain on an XS, usually use Caltric these daze.
PS our tiny rear sprocket size is rare and I think it ends up increasing the torque seen by our chains compared to most.
There's some pretty serious chain loading/performance/life info out there. It's geared towards industrial use but works for us too.
Anyone remember the CRAP chains that came on Japanese bikes back in the 60's early 70's?
Long ago I tried cheap "farm and fleet" (ag) chain, that was not a good plan LOL. But they did sell DID #50 chain that was quite good.
 
Got to my ignition, the pl held fine, one screw was loose and the other stripped, I sorted it out and used some lock tite on them. I'm open to an o ring chain. I wasn't sure about trusting caltric, good to know they hold up. I'm going to run the one I have for a bit, it's fairly few miles and I'm thinking the one that broke was a fluke, the tolerances on it are not as good as the oem I noticed tho. I cary atleast 2 master links whith me since the one broke on me. That turned out to be a hassle. I think thats where I lost my oe tool kit also. I loved that kit. Gives piece of mind. I cary enough tools to do anything it could, was just so nice having the oe kit and go.
 
joebgd said:
I'm having trouble finding led bulbs for the piolet box they are tiny round base? do the gages use same size? And license plate stab ins, I'll pull one tomorrow, I have a few w a similar base to that from when I changed my travel trailer bulbs. They might be a Lil big for plate lights tho. Any help on what the tiny base #is for piolet box and or a link to led bulbs that size? I think i found blinker and tail leds. Im leaning to changing the entire tail light to a running light brake light blinker combo I saw at auto zone.
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Bayonet lamps. The license plate lamps are higher wattage than the pilot box. This is true for the late models. The earlier bikes are flat base, maybe through 1980.
 
joebgd said:
I found these for piolet box and gages.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/ba9...-car+color-blue+volts-12v~acdc+packamt-single

I'm thinking I'll get the corresponding color, amber for flasher, blue for high beem, etc and clear white for gages. My license has wedge lights. Everything else seems to be these ba9s.
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Super brites are ok but the connecting wires/tits are undersized.
Worx ok until they lose contact intermittently. Every one I had.

Trick is to fold back wires back on themselves. ba9's need a drop of silver bearing solder on top of tin/antimony button.

Vasoline wipe every connection with Q-tip. No grease!
 
Steering Damper?
After I changed my steering bearings I get a wobble at high speeds, I mean speeds I'll never go in NY although I have just to see what she'd do. I ride only in NY although out of state is going to happen sometimes. In fl and TX I beleive the limit is 75, in NY highest limit is 65 and thats only on the threw way which I would take upstate sometimes it's one of two main routs I take.
Will a steering damper help this? I've been afraid to go that fast since. I don't fully understand the purpose of a damper. I would think it's to keep bars steady if it tries to wobble or get jerky? I want to install a steering damper rod. Any comments, knowledge or experience welcome.
 
GLJ said:
I think I would go back into the bearings and figure out why you now have a wobble. A stock XS650 should not have a wobble at 75mph.
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That makes sense. I don't want a bandaid on something that shouldn't be. Is it possible I put the cups or bearings on bottom top wrong way. I think, idk, the cups are same and bottom bearing won't fit on top?
Edit, I was just checking out tech tab, I don't see any way the races or bearings could be put on wrong. The race matches the bearing and inside diamiter is not the same bottom and top.
 
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Had my first experience with tungsten difused...dry lube.
I have a few generic tabaco pipe tools, they come free with tabaco pipes. It's a tamper poker and scraper. The 3 chrome tools are joined by a brass bushing rivet, an open circle about the size of a taper cover cap bolt. One was so tight it couldn't be open without discomfort, really tight. The others are not near that tight. I tried repeatedly open close movement, still tight. I thought great introduction to tds powder. I was supper impressed I bet it would fall open if I put some oil w the powder to disperse it. I just puffed a little a few times in-between the tool joint.
Wow I'm doing my clutch cable tomorrow. Any comments or suggestions about mixing it w oil or use dry? Comments in general welcome. I'm thinking try it dry 1st. Puff a few puffs in one end and work it through the other end?
Edit: I also want to put it on the piston and movements of my oilless compressor. The parts I can get to mostly, I'll use it dry, if some parts are less than 50% exposed I might try an oil mix.
 
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