...and now for the next chapter in the
Saga of Gretel - a 1983 BMW R100RS after which I have lusted since I was a mere boy of 19 when this model was introduced in 1977 by
"those other people" in Munich.
I ride with a group of guys from the central Ontario city of
Peterborough (about 500 km northeast of me in
Windsor) and I am the youngest by about 8 years. The group has a lot of fun; we don't ride for more than 90 minutes without a stop for a pee-pee (older guys ya' know) and we seldom do more than about 350-400 km/day (around 200-250 miles). We stay in reasonable hotels and do not eat at McDonalds, although Timmy's meals are typical - 'cause we are all Canadians. Each afternoon we dismount by about 3:30 PM and have a "healing circle" which involves adult beverages etc. and then we walk or cab (
NEVER ride) to a decent restaurant and we turn-in by around 8:30-9:00 PM with a kickstands-up time of about 8:15 AM.
The group is known as the WKRMC (Walter's Kawartha Riders MC) - named after Walter, a retired bank executive and our Fearless Leader who rides a 2019
H-D Road Glide / King / Chromasaurus...something-or-other. The other guys on this trip were Paul (a retired General Electric nuclear engineer) on 2016
Honda F6B which is a GL1800 bagger, and my cousin Grant - a retired building contractor, riding a 2021
GL1800 Gold Wing - so I had,
by far, the oldest and least sophisticated bike.
I have attached a couple of maps of
Ontario so that interested readers can follow along.
Ontario is a pretty big province (eg. it is about 800 km from
Windsor in the extreme southwest to our national capital city of
Ottawa near the eastern end of the southern part of the province). You will note that much of northern
Ontario is only sparsely populated. About 90% of
Canada's 34M inhabitants live within a 100 mile-wide strip north of the US border and about half that number (around 14 million) live in
Ontario - the vast majority of whom are in the southern
Ontario "band" between
Windsor and
Ottawa. Once you get north of that "band", the countryside really is beautiful, but it is mainly rocks and hills and trees - all the way north until people start using the Cyrillic alphabet.
Like many Canadians, I have travelled widely outside of our country but, sadly, I have never been north of say...
Kapuskasing (oh, I'd love to hear people from abroad try to pronounce that town name) or
Kenora. There are very few, if any, roads to places like
Attawapiskat,
Bearskin Lake or
Fort Severn and travel up there is mainly by air or rail.
The northern highways are generally in good condition but there is
nobody else around and the bush begins literally about 20-30' from each side of the road. Wildlife abounds and large animals such as deer and moose pose a serious hazard to travellers at night. The rule of thumb is that if you hit a deer, you will be injured and your bike wrecked - but if you hit a moose, you will be dead. European visitors often ask about wolves and bears - but they are rarely seen near roads and don't pose much of a concern unless they are startled, feel cornered or their young are nearby. If you want to see a bear - go to a garbage dump in any northern town - but stay in the car and keep the windows UP. Only
total idiots would ever attempt to feed a bear. They are not meat-eaters, but they are big and strong, have sharp claws and teeth and can run much faster than any human. If you piss-off a bear, you will lose. Wolves...never seen one up close - they are generally shy and don't want human contact unless they are hungry and smell food waste or a small dog etc.
Here is a photo of the WKRMC beside Hwy. 17 - just south of North Bay in typical northern Ontario scenery (left to right: Walter, Paul and Grant).
NOTE: Gretel is parked on the
Brown aftermarket sidestand and it seems fine at this point in the trip (but, more about that later).
The WKRMC Summer 2021 trip was basically from
Peterborough north to
New Liskeard (between
Cobalt and
Englehart) and then the plan was to go into
Quebec to
Val d'Or and then south to
Mont Tremblant (a major skiing destination in the winter - near
Mont Laurier) and then back to
Peterborough via
Ottawa. BTW -
Peterborough is just north of
Oshawa (
not Ottawa) - just east of
Toronto on the map. Aren't aboriginal Canadian names fun?
The Trip
To beat some impending rain, I departed
Windsor after lunch on Friday Aug. 6 and stayed with Marie, my #3 daughter and her guy Adam in
Kitchener (about 275 km from
Windsor) and then the next morning, I rode to my own hometown of
Peterborough (about 240 km) - arriving in time for lunch and a bike-washing session. I stayed with Walter that night.
The WKRMC group left on Sunday morning (08/8/2021) and went east to Kaladar and turned north up Hwy. 41 past the big Bon Echo provincial park and campground and on to
Pembroke (halfway between
Ottawa and
North Bay) where we grabbed a nice Best Western hotel and had a refreshing swim in the pool.
The next morning (Mon. Aug. 9) we rode up the
Ottawa Valley past the little towns of
Chalk River, Deep River and the big CF Base at
Petawawa and on to
New Liskeard. History buffs may recall the key roles played by the Chalk River Nuclear Labs in refining the uranium used in the two WW-II Manhattan Project bombs and the NPD (Nuclear Power Demonstrator) reactor - the first CANDU nuclear reactor to generate electrical power built near the little town of
Rolphton in the early 1960s. Good ole' Hwy 17: a pretty historical road by any standard. That evening, we tried to get hotels in
Val d'Or and
Mont Tremblant - but August is holiday season in
La Belle Province and there was
NOTHING at all available in either town.
The next day (Tues. Aug. 10) it was p!ssing down rain and so we donned our rain gear and headed into
Quebec with the goal of riding down the east shore of
Lake Temiskaming and the
Ottawa River and simply returning the the Best Western hotel in
Pembroke. That went fine except for a 10km stretch of muddy highway construction just south of
Notre Dame du Nord just over the
Quebec border from
New Liskeard. Sooo...we all got
very wet and dirty - but hey, if you don't have a sense of humour about the weather, you shouldn't be a Canadian.
The next day (Wed. Aug. 11), we headed east through the nice little
Ottawa Valley towns of
Renfrew ("
The 'frew") and
Arnprior ("
The 'prior") and I split off from the group to go see an old
Ottawa friend who is terminally ill. The rest of the gang went cross-country to
Cornwall down near the
Quebec border (there is a nice hotel that we like there). As it happened, my buddy was too ill to see me - so I rejoined the group in
Cornwall in time for the afternoon swim. It was nearly 38C that afternoon (that is more than 100 deg. F - not much by Mailman standards - but pretty danged hot for the rest of us) and very humid, so the swim was a welcome diversion.
After a fitful sleep in
Cornwall, I got up at 2:00 AM (
Holy Crap - shades of GLJ) on the morning of Thursday Aug. 12 and left alone for
Windsor - a ride of just over 800 km (a tad under 500 miles). The forecast was for rain later in the day and so I figured that I might just make it home before getting wet(ter) than I already was. The other guys carried on snoring until they left for Peterborough at about 8:30 AM - by which time I was getting
totally soaked just north of
Oshawa (and boy, did I get wet). I finally pulled into
Windsor at about 1300 (1:00 PM) by which time I was pretty-much dry again.
The long ride across southern Ontario was challenging and there was a lot of traffic around Toronto (basically the roughly 200 km between Oshawa and London) but the bike ran perfectly and I do enjoy the challenge of a long solo ride. Here is a close-up map of the major landmarks of our trip...
At least it wasn't cold - in fact, the nighttime temperature seldom dipped below about 23C during the whole trip (that is about 73 deg. F for our American friends) and during the day it was upwards of 32C or 90+ deg. F, and even much higher on Wednesday and Thursday. So much for Canada being an Arctic wasteland all year-round....
....to be continued.....