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Adopting another problem child
- Thread starter Wingedwheel
- Start date
Who dares wins...
SAS motto...
SAS motto...
Thanks 5Twins. That’s something I never really looked at closely mainly because I never had to. They’ve always worked so it was just overlooked. Only problem is something I was told by an old guy at work. He said “ you young guys got lots of room in your brain but us old guys are all full up. That’s why we forget things, because when you learn something new it pushes out the older knowledge”. So now I forgot something I just don’t know what it is yet…..
I did the condenser checks putting my meter on M Ohms and then DC. I observed a quick charge and a steady discharge. Nothing changed after several tries and it worked equally on both. Guess I’ll go through the checks again and see if I missed something. I also need to figure out why my starter button isn’t working as well. Either the cheap switch went out or I lost my ground.
Saying I’m taking a break is kinda like saying I’m not gonna eat any Halloween candy. You just kinda keep wandering by and things happen. Lol I was cleaning and putting leads back together to recheck and I changed a ground wire around which fixed the starter button issue but not the spark. Got a buddy that’s into Honda’s that has been dying to give me a hand so a second set of eyes may just help me resolve the issue.
I'm handing out bacon. My wife isn't here to stop me.
I hand out full size candy bars because I will have 6-10 ruffians at the door. Their parents get a shot of Fireball or Rumchatta to keep them warm on the evening trek.
My Vintage Honda buddy stopped by and we commenced to figure out why was no Spark. So here’s the sequence we used and what happened. So the Battery was 12.4v. With the iggy switch and kill switch on 11.2 at the coil on the R/Y wire. So not understanding why there was a 1v drop we jumpered the coils directly to the battery. Still no spark. We isolated the grounds, still no spark. We eliminated the points and mind you there was voltage to the points, but by jumping power to the coils, unplugging the points and scratching the ground on the block we are able to get a spark from the plug wire to the engine. We started with no cap because we were going basic and adding a piece at a time to figure this out. Once that worked I put the cap on and was using an in-line spark checker which I was holding because the caps ar a little different. Well we were getting a great spark then(ask me how I know! Ouch!) and we put the points back in and opened them by hand and yes we got a spark. We then put everything back in-line and I used a funnel and line to fill the bowls and gave her a couple of kicks. Started and ran! We have no idea what we did other than reconnecting things and working the mechanical parts by hand. Didn’t run well with the throttle because I don’t have the Airboxes on but it ran,didn’t sound bad and both cylinders were firing. Even a blind squirrel can sometimes find a nut……
Won’t crank with the starter I’m assuming because of the voltage drop. I installed a blade fuse holder which helped .5V or so but still need to find the other culprits. Losing too much but kicking it fires it right up!
I am getting some leakage around a couple of the crown nuts on the underside of the case. I’ve never split a lower case on these bikes so are there o rings or seals under those?
Copper sealing washers.
Should be copper washers
Easy enough, just drain the oil……… again lol
Seems I just read a copper washer thread!
Seems I just read a copper washer thread!
Specifically, there are six crown nuts that have copper under them. The remainder are plain nuts with steel washers.
The crown nuts belong in positions 1 through 4, 12, and 13
The crown nuts belong in positions 1 through 4, 12, and 13
Thanks 5T, I will, but I’ll keep my drain pan handy just in case…..
