Adopting another problem child

[Wingedwheel]

Solved two issues early. Found the reason for the no e-start and my voltage drop to the coils. I started tracing from the battery forward and at the solenoid I found a poor connection on the blue/white from the start button. A little cleaning and checked the voltage at the coils which improved almost 1.5v. A little starter fluid to check and she fired right up! Next I will pull the caliper and check that leak. I did notice there is no oil light on the wiring diagram. It lights when I push the starter button. Here is the diagram I’m using but I don’t see it on any others either.

 

[jpdevol]

is no oil light on the wiring diagram.

I don't remember one either, but that's a lot of redline rpm for a 650 too. Did ya borrow a meter dash from a TX500 maybe?

 

[Wingedwheel]

Yes those are the gauges from the TX as the ones on this bike were toast. That also might explain why the tach did not appear to be working? I may have to scrounge through my parts bins to see if I have a different tach if this one is not compatible.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Although the original dash had that light also

 

[Wingedwheel]

It appears the wires are R/W and R/L which is not appearing in any diagrams I have.

 

[jpdevol]

It appears the wires are R/W and R/L which is not appearing in any diagrams I have.View attachment 239169

The L/R is the R Brake lining warning light (ground) on the B model. Most diagrams show brown as the positive for that light, but yours is obviously R/W (both switched power though)

 

[Wingedwheel]

I did what I said I wasn’t gonna do and put the tank on and started her up and the light behaved differently after the bike was run for a minute. It no longer came on with the starter button but came on with the ignition then off when started. Just like an idiot light……… JP I used those gauges because I never really thought about the difference in the face only that the wiring was the same and they were all together. By you pointing that out it got me thinking(Danger Will Robinson!)
The cups on the set I have now are chrome, OEM are not so I might change those out. The original tach was really badly faded but I might have to use it and possibly go back and read Mailman’s post about removing the tops to replace that.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Took care of the caliper leak and it turned out to be a dirty bleed screw. I cleaned the taper with 600 grit to get the crap off and it appears to have taken care of the issue. I also changed out the adjustment screw on the brake lever. I had to add a slightly longer screw because there was too much slack and no adjustment left which I find odd but my ‘76 was the same way. The new MC piston sticks out just as much as the old one but the Screw just wasn’t reaching with the locking nut on. I thought about just removing the nut but the threads were toast when I removed it so I just replaced it. Anyone else ever run into that situation with the screw length?

 

[5twins]

Yes, sometimes you can just remove the lock nut from under the screw head and move it to the other end or side of the screw, where it comes through the brake lever. That will let you screw it in more, maybe 1/8" to 3/16" more.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Yes, sometimes you can just remove the lock nut from under the screw head and move it to the other end or side of the screw, where it comes through the brake lever. That will let you screw it in more, maybe 1/8" to 3/16" more.

That’s what I’ve been doing. I noticed that if you just use a longer screw the potential to rub against the back of the control casing could occur. I was just wondering what could cause the travel for that bolt to increase before it contacts the MC piston? I would think that for the most part that piston on a functioning MC would return to the same position it was designed for or is that one of those things about these old machines we just take for what it is? How much adjustment was there in that screw from the factory and as usual am I overthinking this?

 

[Jim]

That’s what I’ve been doing. I noticed that if you just use a longer screw the potential to rub against the back of the control casing could occur. I was just wondering what could cause the travel for that bolt to increase before it contacts the MC piston? I would think that for the most part that piston on a functioning MC would return to the same position it was designed for or is that one of those things about these old machines we just take for what it is? How much adjustment was there in that screw from the factory and as usual am I overthinking this?

Are the perch and lever pivot holes worn... egg shaped?

 

[Wingedwheel]

Are the perch and lever pivot holes worn... egg shaped?

Not really, first thing I looked at.

 

[5twins]

If your front brake lever is not an original, that may have something to do with it. Not all aftermarket levers fit up the same.

 

[Wingedwheel]

If your front brake lever is not an original, that may have something to do with it. Not all aftermarket levers fit up the same.

That’s a great point and I didn’t consider that because this lever was on the MC. I guess in the end just replacing it worked fine.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Still chasing a small leak. My front brake switch is not working now and the lower hose is leaking at the union of the hose and hard pipe. I had it off the other day and it appears there is a slight indent at the seam where the tube is rolled. I’m gonna say that needs replacing as I’ve tried to stop the leak 3 different ways and it still “weeped”. I know it’s not period correct but I may just put a single hose from that junction to the caliper.

 

[TheRanger]

So got Problem Child home and did a quick inspection. The oil in the crankcase doesn’t look bad as far as old oil goes and there is no water in it which I was very happy to see. There is no ig switch key. The gas cap has a gauge in it but the glass is missing and who knows if the thing works and if the key matches the other ones that belonged to the bike. I can smell old nasty gas from somewhere so hopefully it’s the tank. That always seems to improve the chances of less rust and it’s easier to remove gunk than rust. Plugs were loose and wet with a stinky oily substance so it’s possible someone has already tried to soak these cylinders. It doesn’t matter as I’ll be pulling this engine eventually anyway. Gears appear to be alright and it rolls excellent however the spokes will need replacing so here we go with that again. Seat pan appears to be rusted out around the edges but again I will have to work on getting the seat lock off. I didn’t know the ‘75 came with the dual cable carb set-up but it’s complete and the carbs butterflies are free. I vacuumed the mouse nests out of what once would have been air filters. Side stand is missing it’s spring but it’s there and center stand is missing the foot tab but it’s there as well. Surprisingly the paint on the tank is not bad. The clear coat is shot but I love leaving original paint unmolested. A little wet sanding and some new CC would make it look amazing. Master cylinder has liquid in it not paste so that might be good. Passenger mirror came off with a little lube but throttle side took most of the aluminum threads with it. That’s an easy fix. All in all I think I have something here I can work with. I’ve seen the threads on here about popping open the gas cap but does that look like it works the same way as a stock cap? Stock exhaust is in pretty good shape with a few dings and minor surface rust.View attachment 217566View attachment 217567View attachment 217568View attachment 217569View attachment 217570View attachment 217571

Would be great after some nice cleaning up.

 

[Wingedwheel]

TheRanger I’m just waiting on a little warmer temps to clear coat the tank and side covers, otherwise she’s just about done….. the cardboard was for a clutch cover leak that has been dealt with.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Yay! Got the brake leak sorted out and while rolling the bike to another position I noticed the back wheel acting funny. I loosened I up and it had a bad wobble So I pulled the wheel off and WTH! Somehow I never installed the left side rear wheel bearing spacer. All I can figure is when I was beating the crap out of the stuck axle it was fused to the bearing and went in the garbage. Totally my fault for not paying attention. I see xs650 direct sells then unless someone knows another source

 

[Kevin Werner]

Yay! Got the brake leak sorted out and while rolling the bike to another position I noticed the back wheel acting funny. I loosened I up and it had a bad wobble So I pulled the wheel off and WTH! Somehow I never installed the left side rear wheel bearing spacer. All I can figure is when I was beating the crap out of the stuck axle it was fused to the bearing and went in the garbage. Totally my fault for not paying attentionView attachment 239953View attachment 239954. I see xs650 direct sells then unless someone knows another source

Message @DogBunny

 

[Wingedwheel]

Message @DogBunny

Already ahead of you lol.