Adopting another problem child

After hearing a few comments on here and doing a little research I was able to ascertain that there are a lot of parts that I can use off the ‘74 TX500 that are plug and play on the 650. I was curious because they looked the same so I looked up the part #’s for a comparison. A visual showed me same plugs, wire colors and similar part #’s but I wanted to know how I needed to read those #’s. The numbers are set up pretty universally in a format.
Part Number in the format XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The first three digits are the Model Code (every model in the Yamaha Product Line has a unique model number) all parts are given a Model Code of the first model they were used on.
XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The middle five digits are the Basic Code number and indicates the actual part, i.e. 11631 = piston; 11311 = cylinder, etc.
"W" substituted in the first position of this five-digit group (000-W0000-00-00) indicates a factory assembled kit which differs in content from the original assembly used in production (i.e. 2M0-W0046-00-00 – Rear Break Pad assembly).
XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The next two digits are the Design Code and Design Change digits (so 01 means the part has had one design change). This part may or may not appear different, but it will be interchangeable with the original part.
XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The last two digits are the Color or Finish Code.
That let me know for example, my right handed set of controls.
TX-371-83963-42-00. XS-447-83963-01-00
That base part # let me know it was the same piece and the only difference is the XS wiring is internal on the handlebars and the TX is only the left side( although the parts diagram shows them both). Im sure this has been discussed here before but I thought that was pretty lucky to have a parts bike fall into my lap.
 
'75 carbs won't have a top (or bottom) bracket between them, they were separate units. The carbs being bolted together as a "bank" didn't start until the '76-'77 set.
 
'75 carbs won't have a top (or bottom) bracket between them, they were separate units. The carbs being bolted together as a "bank" didn't start until the '76-'77 set.
I was really wondering as I’m seeing things on here that tell me nothing was done on here after the factory. Cables all in place, loom wraps where they should be ect.
 
Day 4 or so of the vinegar bath and I’m happy with how it’s going poured out all but about a half gallon and added a couple lbs of screws. Then a dance routine on the side of the house for about 20 min and poured out the rest. The pic I took isn’t real clear but you can see the rust is basically gone. I refilled the tank and am going to let it soak another couple days and then dry it out. Anyone ever install new brass on the petcocks or are they totally toast? I’m also wondering with as much crap came out of that tank if it’s a candidate for lining. 6851B2AE-4535-44BD-AEE6-4F17F6185887.jpeg66653F7B-521C-4FC3-8BA4-9AA5A1F9AD49.jpeg
 
Just my opinion: I wouldn't do the tank liner. I'd much rather install and repeatedly change (as needed) in-line fuel filters than potentially dealing with failed tank liner.
 
JP I’m not concerned about the fuel lines getting dirty, tank will be spotless when I’m done and always with in-line filters. My concern is a failed seam. That sure was a lot of crap that came out of there.
I suppose I can wait and see.
 
My guess is if it doesn’t leak vinegar then it’s not gonna leak gas. Just make sure you coat it with something pretty quick after the vinegar bath. It will flash rust pretty quick. Maybe a bath of Metal Rescue or something of the like. Wd40, or even some gas with a touch of 2 stroke oil. But definitely hit it with something or you will be back to square one pretty quick.
 
I’ve found WD to not work too well for that. About the only thing that gives a good flash resistant coating is gas
 
Just my opinion: I wouldn't do the tank liner. I'd much rather install and repeatedly change (as needed) in-line fuel filters than potentially dealing with failed tank liner.
Truth.

STA-BIL fogging oil will keep an empty tank from rusting. I’ve also used 90w gear oil.

If you get a leak, you shouldn’t have trouble addressing that later. I keep my tanks full of E0.
 
Very happy with the results. I’ll have to get new petcocks but I absolutely love this tank. I think a nice wet sand being careful around the decals, a couple new coats of clear and polish. Fingers crossed…..E9B62C59-FD09-47DB-9D6C-2185069C2509.jpegED1856B1-43F0-4927-975D-54EF813FD015.jpeg3F92E601-53F7-4CDF-AE35-5A63936F804C.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • DE71A0B6-EA5A-453F-9104-76E843DA28B2.jpeg
    DE71A0B6-EA5A-453F-9104-76E843DA28B2.jpeg
    390.7 KB · Views: 59
Took a few minutes today and finished pulling the engine. I’m hoping to find stuck rings with minimal issues freeing them up. I want to power wash the engine before I get into it as I got ahead of myself on Patience and what a PITA that was getting that case clean without contaminating things.1E403951-DFE9-463C-8194-65DB1051021A.jpeg I also blew the dual horns to see if they worked. Sounded like a freight liner! Lol I ended up buying a stock seat and center stand. I have this…image.jpgsoaking and using heat on the tach cable at the engine. Damn thing is stuck good and not letting go…
 
Ahhhh.....the tastefully coloured 1975 XS650B.....the prettiest of the Standards.

Following with interest - this one rates a solid :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:

Pete
 

Attachments

  • A5ABFE05-D0FB-4507-A77B-BD3048E6AB64.jpeg
    A5ABFE05-D0FB-4507-A77B-BD3048E6AB64.jpeg
    337 KB · Views: 50
  • EF942DE8-8B99-4680-AE55-F39EF90A92C3.jpeg
    EF942DE8-8B99-4680-AE55-F39EF90A92C3.jpeg
    192.8 KB · Views: 53
  • 1045D786-2624-418E-ADAC-815BAC640911.jpeg
    1045D786-2624-418E-ADAC-815BAC640911.jpeg
    296.7 KB · Views: 49
  • 3C32BBD5-F407-4C65-8637-9A9D15239C23.jpeg
    3C32BBD5-F407-4C65-8637-9A9D15239C23.jpeg
    295.7 KB · Views: 45
  • 1297C1F9-D73A-4B81-8B85-86AA8CD1D502.jpeg
    1297C1F9-D73A-4B81-8B85-86AA8CD1D502.jpeg
    285.3 KB · Views: 50
  • 9D698DF1-78C5-499C-995D-7884BCB33E4C.jpeg
    9D698DF1-78C5-499C-995D-7884BCB33E4C.jpeg
    339.7 KB · Views: 51
  • 1EA4B967-A1C9-4A9D-9514-EE4B7583DF2E.jpeg
    1EA4B967-A1C9-4A9D-9514-EE4B7583DF2E.jpeg
    349.7 KB · Views: 55
  • 1BF3B527-780A-4E07-A26E-BF8622B25194.jpeg
    1BF3B527-780A-4E07-A26E-BF8622B25194.jpeg
    267.1 KB · Views: 48
  • 76F4F6D0-C116-4621-B517-704310F28564.jpeg
    76F4F6D0-C116-4621-B517-704310F28564.jpeg
    365.1 KB · Views: 46
  • 5BCFD0A1-8101-4226-9D4B-ABB748E0223B.jpeg
    5BCFD0A1-8101-4226-9D4B-ABB748E0223B.jpeg
    313.3 KB · Views: 47
They did come out nice. Those all use the same kits I believe As the later BS38’s? Correct?
 
As well as I know all is interchangeable, a few changes to the throttle parts and the jets on the later models that only had one throttle cable, but float / gaskets etc are interchangeable to my knowledge.
 
Back
Top