Adopting another problem child

Jim

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I have a feeling it was some sort of retaliation. Perhaps the reason for the bike “sitting”
I'd have a good look at the clutch basket. There's 6 cush springs.... and 6 pennies. coincidence?
A penny being flung out at high velocity might take a shifter spring with it.
 

Wingedwheel

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Why in the world would anyone try something like that. Anyone ever hear of a “fix” involving pennies
 

Wingedwheel

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The other thing I’ve noticed is that all gaskets and seals appear to be factory so I don’t think they were installed anywhere, just dropped into the dipstick hole.
 

Wingedwheel

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I did manage to get a couple of things done. 02D99917-DE31-4ABB-98B0-02BD2A13ADD5.jpegDE30E2C4-987A-458C-A26F-09EC03D10915.jpegB97DEF15-3EBA-40D4-BF18-0EEAC953C3B9.jpeg349D7721-4743-4715-A53A-72463546F8D5.jpeg
 

Wingedwheel

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I’m trying to tie up all loose ends and get everything I can put on the bike where it goes. 3D290A93-EDCB-4F20-BD0B-05BD3CE0796C.jpegTwo big things I have to do are the wheels and the carbs but there’s still plenty of small things also. Paint, cleaning, polish and hook-ups. Before I put the cover on I am pretty sure I need to clean the face of the alternator. What and how is the best way to go about that? 6D7AAA8C-5566-46DC-9108-FFBEFE910058.jpegI was also able to get the boogered up tube caps out by making a tool and putting a little heat to the ends. Had to heat the tach drive pretty good to get that apart also but it worked out as well. FE23AD9D-50DB-47B1-AE35-9ED4CCD141C7.jpegWife told me today that if I didn’t already have a name for the bike I should call her “Penny”.
 

gggGary

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clean the face of the alternator
4sher!
use a #3 phillips #3 JIS... and remove the stator, start with mineral spirits and a rag see if what is prolly an oil and carbon mix wipes off, especially the slip rings. I like rubbing compound on the slip rings. No heavy sand paper, mebby 600 grit / mineral spirits if they are pretty beat up. Clean up all those parts check the brush length and measure resistance ring to ring about 5.3 ohm, low of 5 high of 6 acceptable range. Wait at least a few seconds each measuring for the meter to stop dropping. Low ohm measurements like this will show up a weak meter battery.
 

Wingedwheel

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I feel like I’m in a cycle, clean, paint, polish, repeat. Lol I’m getting a lot done but there is still a long list of items to take care of. I suppose it will all get done eventually but I now know what a monumental task it is to bring something this far back from the dead.853BDD25-2108-4BD0-A808-118B766084F0.jpeg
 

Wingedwheel

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4sher!
use a #3 phillips #3 JIS... and remove the stator, start with mineral spirits and a rag see if what is prolly an oil and carbon mix wipes off, especially the slip rings. I like rubbing compound on the slip rings. No heavy sand paper, mebby 600 grit / mineral spirits if they are pretty beat up. Clean up all those parts check the brush length and measure resistance ring to ring about 5.3 ohm, low of 5 high of 6 acceptable range. Wait at least a few seconds each measuring for the meter to stop dropping. Low ohm measurements like this will show up a weak meter battery.
That worked great Gary. I was at 5.3 OHMS
 

Wingedwheel

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Got a lot done today in preparation for the motor to go back in(only cuz I need floor space!) but I’m still lacking my wheels.. while replacing gaskets and seals I found the starter reduction gear with a screw loose. I don’t know if it could have fallen out with the cover there but eventually the other two may have worked loose. Sump filter was not torn but I replaced it anyway. I’ll work this one into a spare. It had been messed with as the bolts were too tight and crimped it down a little.8B08EB12-A216-4145-AA92-E15E5121F22D.jpeg One question I have is the manual does not mention what tension to put on the ball valve bypass inside the filter screw. I see the tension can be increased but is there a particular set of turns for it?
I also noticed the counter shaft seal was poorly installed. It looked like someone had beat one side in first and shaved the rubber.
 

jpdevol

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One question I have is the manual does not mention what tension to put on the ball valve bypass inside the filter screw. I see the tension can be increased but is there a particular set of turns for it?
I also noticed the counter shaft seal was poorly installed. It looked like someone had beat one side in first and shaved the rubber.
I was hoping someone else would answer: IIRC, the check-ball/spring is supposed to open at ~15psi. Personally, I don't typically pressure test them (I don't really want them to open); I just make sure it will open some by pushing on it with a wooden dowel or blunt punch and generally leave it be, unless it feels weak. There is no spec number of turns that I am aware of.

On the seal, someone has likely installed one with everything assembled.
 

Wingedwheel

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Yep I figured the seal was poorly installed by a PO but thats not the only thing that’s whacked. I guess it’s no different than any other PO shenanigans. I did notice the copper seal washers were on the lower bolts of the clutch cover so that probably wasn’t messed with.
 

5twins

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The consensus on that pressure relief screw is to set it flush with the top of the bolt head. Someone on here years ago said they bought a brand new 650 and that's how they found it set. I know, not very scientific, but it's all we've got, lol.
 

Wingedwheel

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Since that’s how I found it I figured that’s how I would leave it. I also found that valve keeper that went flying last month. It was not anywhere close to where I was looking. I found it on a shelf at a 45 degree angle to my work bench. I walked by the shelf and out of the corner of my eye noticed a dark spot on a white plastic bag. Yep, the oil on the keeper stained the plastic enough to catch my eye. Lol
 

Wingedwheel

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Got started on the wheels and I know not to even attempt to get those 40 Something tires off with the irons so a saw all and bolt cutters made quick work of getting them off. It’s crazy that the tubes were still holding air.After working my butt off getting the spokes loose on the front tire and actually breaking my 7/32 wrench(#*&@%) I just broke out the batter grinder and just cut the rest. I definitely wouldn’t be saving those rusty rods so why not. I set up on my favorite workbench and got everything prepped for cleaning and polish. At that point my PDR guy called to tell me my tank was ready so I stopped for the day and went and picked it up.15153CC5-8F47-4E38-A0AA-2B82E5BB6F60.jpegBA1E4EF4-7A53-40A2-890D-3E71D33C5A1E.jpeg
 

Wingedwheel

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I’ve figured out I really don’t like sanding clear coat off. I’ve tried several different ways and had found that ”wet” sanding with steel wool seemed to be working best. Then I found this can of stripper. It did a great job when left overnight.0280D13A-67B3-402B-AE2C-066A4977F243.jpeg As usual it took me a minute to figure out the pattern but once I did everything went really smooth.548305CE-3663-4D55-BA1C-4A889AF76214.jpegB6EE9549-11BA-4A61-A40B-7F8DEEC9C37A.jpeg My truing stand isn’t as fancy as Gary’s but it gets the job done. I got the front wheel together as well but this morning I had to get a tooth pulled that cracked in half over the weekend so it slowed me down a little bit.A06F299F-2AA0-4934-A9D4-A14E460927DF.jpeg
 
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