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Hi Joe,
WER is correct, those bars ain't the dreaded OEM, and while I reckon the only good use of the rototillers would be the tenor note in a windchime those ape hangers would do well as a bass note.
Or you could keep them on the bike and buy yourself a matching jacket;
it'd have "I am a total prat" across the back, picked out in rhinestones.
WER is correct, those bars ain't the dreaded OEM, and while I reckon the only good use of the rototillers would be the tenor note in a windchime those ape hangers would do well as a bass note.
Or you could keep them on the bike and buy yourself a matching jacket;
it'd have "I am a total prat" across the back, picked out in rhinestones.
Joe24
XS650 Enthusiast
Haha. Will do, Fred. 
Actually, I might go ahead and pre order some new bars. Good suggestions for a tall rider, anyone?
Looking to make the bike quiet minimal and classic.
I'll take a look online. Cheers.
Actually, I might go ahead and pre order some new bars. Good suggestions for a tall rider, anyone?
Looking to make the bike quiet minimal and classic.
I'll take a look online. Cheers.
Hi Joe,
bars is like shoes, you gotta try them on to be sure they'll fit.
Bars from an XS650 Standard should be OK, The Honda CB750 bars I had before were a tad tall for me at 5'-8" (although they work OK for me on my XS11 because that bike's seat is further from the bars) but mebbe if you are 6'-0" or taller the CB750 bars would be OK for you.
bars is like shoes, you gotta try them on to be sure they'll fit.
Bars from an XS650 Standard should be OK, The Honda CB750 bars I had before were a tad tall for me at 5'-8" (although they work OK for me on my XS11 because that bike's seat is further from the bars) but mebbe if you are 6'-0" or taller the CB750 bars would be OK for you.
The bars are a cosmetic issue and changing them will mean changing any and all cables and hoses. Brake Hose, clutch and brake cable. There is a lot of info about the quality of mikes XS parts and you will need to do some research or get advice on the parts you intend to replace.
You haven't stated, (hinted maybe), if you have bought the bike before delivery or are going to be able to have a look at it before actually paying for it.
Things i see you are going to have to do and things to look for to be able to ascertain if you are going to have to do certain things.
I see oil around the points lead going into the cam cover and it is all around the back of the engine and on the carb manifolds. This is a sure indication the cam seals will need to be done. Buy 2 sets because it is real easy to damage the seals on reinstall. Not just a novice problem either.
Weather you have bought the bike or looking at it before making a payment. Remove the side oil filter, (in the right hand engine case), and see if there are black pieces of hard plastic or other debris on the filter. If there is debris then the bottom screen filter is broken and will need to be repaired, (yes they can be), or replaced and depending on the debris, if it is black plastic then that is a sure sign the front Can chain guide is worn and will need replacing. The plastic d-laminates from the alloy guide over time so sometimes it is just a time thing, but if there is no indication this has happened then you may get a season or 2 out of it before having to replace the guide.
If you have to replace the Guide this requires the engine to be removal and the head removed. ................To back up a bit, a compression test should be done and if the compression is within 5 PSI between each cylinder then the bike can be run as low as 100 PSI but ideally anything above 120-130 will get you around for a season. 150 PSI is considered great for a standard XS650..................If the front cam chain guide needs replacing and you have low or lowish compression then it is an opportunity while the top end is apart, to refresh with a hone and new rings or a re-bore and new pistons. There is a cheap good quality alternative to Mikes XS Pistons and rings.
not trying to scare you but this is what you are up against.
The front brake lines will have to be replaced if you are going to remove the bars straight away. Mikes sells rubber or Stainless lines, if it is a matter of cost, the rubber is ok but will need to be replace in the next 3 or so years but Braided stainless will last for years. The cailpers and MC will need going through, dismantle and clean, or if it needs maybe some new seals and a flush. Ditto for rear brake.
Charging system needs to be checked for voltage output, Sometimes problems can be caused by faulty or corroded connections creating resistance making the charging system work harder and over heat, Bad batteries is also a major cause of failing charging systems. If it just a rotor they can be fixed/repaired/rewound, and with a cheap alternative Regulator and rectifier, (a lot of info on this), you can get years of service out of the original charging system
All wiring connections, bullet/couplings and earth connections, need to be taken apart, cleaned and connected again and the earth connections cleaned and contact points cleaned and all contaminants removed. This includes switches on the bars as well.
This is a start, electrical things i have mentioned are a necessity and the loom cleaning can be done in a day or 2 for a novice. this is something that has to be done for reliability sake. The best thing about this is you get to know your wiring.
Can't really see but it looks to have the cheap pod filters on the bike. Throw them away and get Pods or if you want go back to original filters.
Do the electrics before doing the carburetors, often problems blamed on the carbs can be traced back to faulty charging system problems.
Make a thread and ask questions before buying any parts because there are sellers out there who do make replacement parts that are cheaper and as good if not better than Mikes XS. On some parts Yamaha still supplies them and although they are more expensive than aftermarket, the parts quality is worth paying extra for.
Enough for the novel. Tech menu is your friend and keep to one thread then regular helpers will enjoy helping you on your journey
You haven't stated, (hinted maybe), if you have bought the bike before delivery or are going to be able to have a look at it before actually paying for it.
Things i see you are going to have to do and things to look for to be able to ascertain if you are going to have to do certain things.
I see oil around the points lead going into the cam cover and it is all around the back of the engine and on the carb manifolds. This is a sure indication the cam seals will need to be done. Buy 2 sets because it is real easy to damage the seals on reinstall. Not just a novice problem either.
Weather you have bought the bike or looking at it before making a payment. Remove the side oil filter, (in the right hand engine case), and see if there are black pieces of hard plastic or other debris on the filter. If there is debris then the bottom screen filter is broken and will need to be repaired, (yes they can be), or replaced and depending on the debris, if it is black plastic then that is a sure sign the front Can chain guide is worn and will need replacing. The plastic d-laminates from the alloy guide over time so sometimes it is just a time thing, but if there is no indication this has happened then you may get a season or 2 out of it before having to replace the guide.
If you have to replace the Guide this requires the engine to be removal and the head removed. ................To back up a bit, a compression test should be done and if the compression is within 5 PSI between each cylinder then the bike can be run as low as 100 PSI but ideally anything above 120-130 will get you around for a season. 150 PSI is considered great for a standard XS650..................If the front cam chain guide needs replacing and you have low or lowish compression then it is an opportunity while the top end is apart, to refresh with a hone and new rings or a re-bore and new pistons. There is a cheap good quality alternative to Mikes XS Pistons and rings.
not trying to scare you but this is what you are up against.
The front brake lines will have to be replaced if you are going to remove the bars straight away. Mikes sells rubber or Stainless lines, if it is a matter of cost, the rubber is ok but will need to be replace in the next 3 or so years but Braided stainless will last for years. The cailpers and MC will need going through, dismantle and clean, or if it needs maybe some new seals and a flush. Ditto for rear brake.
Charging system needs to be checked for voltage output, Sometimes problems can be caused by faulty or corroded connections creating resistance making the charging system work harder and over heat, Bad batteries is also a major cause of failing charging systems. If it just a rotor they can be fixed/repaired/rewound, and with a cheap alternative Regulator and rectifier, (a lot of info on this), you can get years of service out of the original charging system
All wiring connections, bullet/couplings and earth connections, need to be taken apart, cleaned and connected again and the earth connections cleaned and contact points cleaned and all contaminants removed. This includes switches on the bars as well.
This is a start, electrical things i have mentioned are a necessity and the loom cleaning can be done in a day or 2 for a novice. this is something that has to be done for reliability sake. The best thing about this is you get to know your wiring.
Can't really see but it looks to have the cheap pod filters on the bike. Throw them away and get Pods or if you want go back to original filters.
Do the electrics before doing the carburetors, often problems blamed on the carbs can be traced back to faulty charging system problems.
Make a thread and ask questions before buying any parts because there are sellers out there who do make replacement parts that are cheaper and as good if not better than Mikes XS. On some parts Yamaha still supplies them and although they are more expensive than aftermarket, the parts quality is worth paying extra for.
Enough for the novel. Tech menu is your friend and keep to one thread then regular helpers will enjoy helping you on your journey
Joe24
XS650 Enthusiast
Thank you, Skull.
I'll save this post. I've already saved a few of your other threads.
I'm leaning towards purchasing the bike. I am obliged to put a deposit down before delivery. Wont really be able to test it. It seems a bit of a gamble. The owner feels it's ridable, and is handy with bikes/cars. I'll sleep on it tonight.
My hope would be to new tires, bars, and with a little maintenance run it this summer. Fingers crossed.
Then to rebuilding the engine and such as necessary through the winter.
Ive got my heart set on a 650. Let's hope it's correct!
Thanks again for all the tips. I'm scared about the gamble, but mainly excited.
It's a bargain price with delivery, there will be issues and at times it will piss you off, i got mine 18months ago with it's safety certificate which was obviously a dodgy one the bike was dangerous, i certainly have had to spend more than i hoped to and seriously thought of setting fire to it, but now it's done it is great, it's one of those bikes that puts a grin on your face from ear to ear when riding them, go on go for it! you will kick yourself if you don't.
Joe24
XS650 Enthusiast
More encouragement! Just what I need, cheers mate.
Having such an active forum backing me up, gives me some relief as well.
Joe24
XS650 Enthusiast
Alright, the bike is on its way soon!
My goal is to immediately get a few things done on the 79 so it is running safe and reliable. Learn on the ol' gal this summer, then fix her up fully through the winter.
The immediate:
[ ] Tires
[ ] Chain and sprockets
[ ] Oil
[ ] Air filters
[ ] carb fine tune
[ ] General check up and clean up
[ ] Handlebars
[ ] Quick cover up of flames
My main question for you fine folks- while wheels are off, does it make sense to change out the swing-arm-bushing right then, or wait until I overhaul the suspension in the winter? It seems like a lot of work.
For the winter I'd like to tackle: suspension, electrical, seals and top end, aesthetics, whatever else comes up in a season of riding.
I'll have more funds available come winter. Bike+good gear= a nice chunk of change.
Let me know if you think this is a solid plan or if anything should be added. And, here's to hoping her engines in decent shape
My goal is to immediately get a few things done on the 79 so it is running safe and reliable. Learn on the ol' gal this summer, then fix her up fully through the winter.
The immediate:
[ ] Tires
[ ] Chain and sprockets
[ ] Oil
[ ] Air filters
[ ] carb fine tune
[ ] General check up and clean up
[ ] Handlebars
[ ] Quick cover up of flames
My main question for you fine folks- while wheels are off, does it make sense to change out the swing-arm-bushing right then, or wait until I overhaul the suspension in the winter? It seems like a lot of work.
For the winter I'd like to tackle: suspension, electrical, seals and top end, aesthetics, whatever else comes up in a season of riding.
I'll have more funds available come winter. Bike+good gear= a nice chunk of change.
Let me know if you think this is a solid plan or if anything should be added. And, here's to hoping her engines in decent shape
Last edited:
With the rear end still assembled and the bike on the centerstand, grab the side of the swingarm back near the rear tire and see how much it will wiggle from side to side. That, and a ride, will give you a general idea of how bad the swingarm bushings are. Even if worn a bit, they usually don't effect the ride too much except if you push it hard through a corner. Then you may experience some wallowing or wobble. Ride it easy and it could be fine.
Assuming it is running when you get it... then I'd focus on tires, oil, and run through a safety check on all the moving parts, cables, etc. (like the swing arm movement 5T mentioned)...and if all looks OK, then ride it.
I'd do everything else on your list over the winter. Likely, however, things like Electrical and carbs, and various other things will crop up over the year to have to be addressed earlier.
(Oh, and get some good gear sooner than later).
I'd do everything else on your list over the winter. Likely, however, things like Electrical and carbs, and various other things will crop up over the year to have to be addressed earlier.
(Oh, and get some good gear sooner than later).
Hi Skull,
an excellent novel but I can't agree with the preface.
Never mind the cosmetics, the WRONG bars are a safety issue.
If you aren't comfortable with them you are not in total control as you ride.
Totally misunderstood what i was saying........again.
They are cosmetic in the grander scheme of things, taking into account getting the bike running, and spending as a priority and the cost associated with the changes needed by lowering the bars then they aren't a priority if those things are taken into account...............
Of course that is a view, and it is up to the op to decide what he/she wants to do. not for you to question my input unless i have made a misleading or false statement.
Ape-hangers, (yes ape-hangers not the Special rotilla bars), have been used for decades, (just in case you didn't know), and who a i to decide if they are dangerous/unsafe in someones hands. I haven't asked them if they are capable of riding with them, (have you).
Hi Skull,
I've no idea if I misunderstood what you meant but I certainly don't agree with what you said.
What I say is that if you ain't comfortable riding with whatever style of bars is on your bike you ain't in as good a control of it as you could be.
And that IS a safety issue.
I've no idea if I misunderstood what you meant but I certainly don't agree with what you said.
What I say is that if you ain't comfortable riding with whatever style of bars is on your bike you ain't in as good a control of it as you could be.
And that IS a safety issue.
Get off your high horse Fred............... Gets boring hearing someone giving their high handed opinion all the time. Especially when you don'[t even take the time to ask the intentions of the people you give your unsolicited advice to.............Take the time to actually ask a question..........I won't be commenting in this thread again
Joe24, PM me, if you have any queries you think i can help with.
Joe24, PM me, if you have any queries you think i can help with.
Hi Skull,
two words for you, Sir. T'other one is OFF.
two words for you, Sir. T'other one is OFF.
Joe24
XS650 Enthusiast
You know what I love the most about owning an XS?
The community.
I've already ordered handlebars. We'll see if they fit me. Not sure at all. Ape hangers ain't me tho.
So, it looks like my plann is pretty good. I'll check out the swing arm when the wheels are off.
Thank you for the advice, gentlemen.
The community.
I've already ordered handlebars. We'll see if they fit me. Not sure at all. Ape hangers ain't me tho.
So, it looks like my plann is pretty good. I'll check out the swing arm when the wheels are off.
Thank you for the advice, gentlemen.
Grin! The "nearly spring weather in Toonerville gettin' to ole' Fred?
View attachment 62478
Out my door just now.
View attachment 62478
Out my door just now.
You know what I love the most about owning an XS?
The community.
I've already ordered handlebars. We'll see if they fit me. Not sure at all. Ape hangers ain't me tho.
So, it looks like my plann is pretty good. I'll check out the swing arm when the wheels are off.
Thank you for the advice, gentlemen.
Certainly a good idea to check for play in the swing arm. However, at only 19,000 kms, I'd say your swing arm will be just fine. Just pump in some grease and ride the bike for a year. If there is excessive wear, the bike will give you feedback as you ride it.
My bike has around 35,000 kms, and its original swing arm and bushings work great.
Some replacements on these bikes are a "must do"...................fuse panel,rectifier, regulator, head light, rubber parts, tires, mechanical advancer, points ignition.
Other parts are replace as needed, such as swing arm bushings, wheel bearings.
There are many threads about lads struggling to replace wheel bearings, when in fact the wheel bearings are extremely long lasting.
