Aftermarket Rear Sets

[1981special]

Hello all, I’m new to this forum and have 1981 xs650. When I got the bike the shifter wasn’t on the bike, nor was the rear brake linkage. He gave me the parts but said something about welding a bracket to the frame in order for them to work.

I finally got them bolted down without needing to weld anything but when I shift the bike the clutch lever is very firm and the shifter just rotates. The bike doesn’t shift but the whole shifter rotates. Also I haven’t got the rear brake connected yet. If you know anything I’d love to hear some advice!

 

[jpdevol]

Welcome!

Some pics can likely help, if possible. Most rear-sets come with their own pedals rather than using stock versions.

The bike doesn’t shift but the whole shifter rotates

I hoping you don't mean the shift shaft (splined rod entering motor) is rotating > a fraction of a turn. ?

 

[ThatXS650Guy]

Yeah, we'll need some pics. Some rear set kits require you to modify your gear shift lever and brake pedal.

 

[1981special]

Welcome!

Some pics can likely help, if possible. Most rear-sets come with their own pedals rather than using stock versions.


I hoping you don't mean the shift shaft (splined rod entering motor) is rotating > a fraction of a turn. ?

I will take some pictures soon. Even though I tightened the bracket that connects to the shift shaft. The bracket rotates around the splines. The splines are either toast or the bracket that bolts on to it is.

 

[1981special]

I know this picture doesn’t do much but the stud to tighten down the shifter itself is stripped so now I have another issue on my hands. When the shifter is tightened down all the way the shift shaft bracket rotated but now that the stud is stripped it obviously won’t stat in one place. This bike hasn’t been ran in 30 years and I got it running but now I need to get it ready to drive. I have the original shifter that I could throw on for now. Any advice on how to get it off? It seems wedged on there.

 

[grizld1]

The only advice I can offer is to stay far away from Raask rear sets. I bought a set years ago and still use it. It took months for the buyer's remorse and resentment to fade.
One linkage rod end was pressed into to the wrong side of the shift shaft collar tab, rendering the shifter inoperable. Thorstein must have been working off the weekend's mead when he did that. The material is pot metal and very brittle. My shift pedal is now held together with screws and mending plates. I overpaid once for the set and would rather live with a cosmetic flaw than be robbed again by paying a premium price for a substandard item.

 

[Jan_P]

Is it that one we are talking about

The chromed parts rotates but not the shift axle
Threads stripped for the black bolt.

Use another bolt all the way trough perhaps smaller diameter and a nut ...washer
Possible stronger grade on the screw
Then you can apply large clamping force -- have done it on the stock shift pedal
Check so that nothing prevents the clamping gap I Have opened the gap with a cutting disk sometimes
if do that ...eventually the pedal will break at the clamping region . Or not.

 

[arcticXS]

View attachment 222245
I know this picture doesn’t do much but the stud to tighten down the shifter itself is stripped so now I have another issue on my hands. When the shifter is tightened down all the way the shift shaft bracket rotated but now that the stud is stripped it obviously won’t stat in one place. This bike hasn’t been ran in 30 years and I got it running but now I need to get it ready to drive. I have the original shifter that I could throw on for now. Any advice on how to get it off? It seems wedged on there.

To remove the arm on the shifter shaft, file or grind off the bolt head, and try to tap out the remaining piece, or just drill the whole clamping bolt out with a 1/4" bit..
Then reassemble with a longer M6 bolt with a nut. If the gap closes completely when tightening, use a hacksaw to siden the gap slightly.
Then adjust the linkage rod so that it is perpendicular to the shifter arm.
That should improve shifting a lot.
Just basic force and levers, like the ancient Greek already had figured out. And most likely the Egyptians before that.......

 

[Jim]

Appears to be some confusion 'bout what you actually have goin' on.
Looks to me like one factory stud was hacksawed off, the other is stripped and the whole works rotates about the stripped stud.
That sound about right?

 

[arcticXS]

Appears to be some confusion 'bout what you actually have goin' on.
Looks to me like one factory stud was hacksawed off, the other is stripped and the whole works rotates about the stripped stud.
That sound about right?

Oops, more wrong stuff, less right.....

 

[jpdevol]

Sadly, as Jim points out, the factory lower footpeg mount has been hacked; that's gonna be the "welding" the PO eluded to. Will not work that way. If you decide to proceed with welding, first remove or disconnect all electrical boxes, coils and isolate all frame grounds from electrical system.

Suggest perhaps consider stock pegs or other rear-sets.

 

[jpdevol]

I've used Slipstream rear-sets on XS & RD builds - one guy in AR, quality design & work. Website no longer works, but found these (gotta be same guy??)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143448786815

 

[JesseeS]

Here’s the website. They are who im going with as well

https://slipstreamcycle.com/

 

[Adamc]

View attachment 222245
I know this picture doesn’t do much but the stud to tighten down the shifter itself is stripped so now I have another issue on my hands. When the shifter is tightened down all the way the shift shaft bracket rotated but now that the stud is stripped it obviously won’t stat in one place. This bike hasn’t been ran in 30 years and I got it running but now I need to get it ready to drive. I have the original shifter that I could throw on for now. Any advice on how to get it off? It seems wedged on there.

The angles on this set up are all wrong. The splined connector to the shift shaft works better when its parallel to the actuator on the foot lever.
The link shaft from the lever to the splined connector is too short to allow the parallel motion.
Here is a picture of my Cognito Set-up (Its expensive), there are cheaper alternatives but the implementation would be the same.