Convert to standard 3 phase bridge rectifier and automotive regulator? Anecdotally, based on what I see posted here, those combined reg/recs seem more troublesome?
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Almost There
- Thread starter Uncle Frank
- Start date
Yes, it seems many times they're bad right out of the box.
Uncle Frank
XS650 Enthusiast
Well I've been out re checking everything this morning. Everything seems to spec except the rotor (which is new). The manual says there should "sound insulation" between the slip rings and the rotor centre. Mine has 3.3 ohm between the inner slip ring and 9.5 ohm between the outer. I have checked the old rotor and there is no continuity. Think I'll fit up the old rotor and see what happens.
Uncle Frank
XS650 Enthusiast
Which is exactly what I will do. I thought I had an earth fault in the rotor but it was earthing through the brushes
Highly recommend DIY. You'll have a solid, reliable charging system at very low cost with industry standard components.Which is exactly what I will do. I thought I had an earth fault in the rotor but it was earthing through the brushes
And I also like the idea of a separate regulator and rectifier. If there's a problem with either one, you can just replace that item.
Agreed, easier to troubleshoot than a combined black box too.
Uncle Frank
XS650 Enthusiast
My Napa Echlin VR1010 has arrived. I has the four wires - green, black, orange and yellow. I will connect the green to the green brush wire, the black to the black brush wire and earth, twitch the orange and yellow together and connect them to switched power. Does that sound about right?
I made new wiring pigtails to connect regulator and rectifier to the original plugs on the harness. Like this -
https://www.xs650.com/threads/uk-source-voltage-regulator.65543/post-832950
https://www.xs650.com/threads/uk-source-voltage-regulator.65543/post-832950
Yes, the way you intend to wire it sounds correct. If you plan to mount it where the original regulator was then the pigtail will be too short to reach the connector on the harness (on top by the battery). So, you'll need a "jumper" harness. I used 4 wires and combined the red (or orange) and yellow up at the harness plug .....
To keep the regulator end from coming unplugged, I added a couple cable ties ......
The jumper harness is then fed behind the battery, between it and the inner rear fender, up to the harness plug .....
To keep the regulator end from coming unplugged, I added a couple cable ties ......
The jumper harness is then fed behind the battery, between it and the inner rear fender, up to the harness plug .....
Uncle Frank
XS650 Enthusiast
Nice work 5Twins. Thanks for the advice
Uncle Frank
XS650 Enthusiast
So I installed my new regulator and rectifier today. Still no joy - now volts build up to around 13.9 - 14.0 and hold steady there. Increasing revs makes no difference. I double checked the readings at the rectifier but no difference. Not sure where to go from here.
With engine not running:
Battery volts - 12.8
Voltage at switched wire into regulator - 12.6
Voltage out of regulator - 11.5
Voltage at brush - 11.4
Resistance for each phase - 0.5 ohms
Resistance across rotor - 5.0 ohms
With engine running:
AC volts for each phase - 11.4 to 11.6
With engine not running:
Battery volts - 12.8
Voltage at switched wire into regulator - 12.6
Voltage out of regulator - 11.5
Voltage at brush - 11.4
Resistance for each phase - 0.5 ohms
Resistance across rotor - 5.0 ohms
With engine running:
AC volts for each phase - 11.4 to 11.6
It's possible that the regulator is working fine and it's set point is 14v? I know the set point is sometimes written on the regulators. I think mine is 14.5v. Others here know more than I though.
Yes, the set point differs on different regulators. But 14v will keep your battery charged. I ran mine for years with the original regulator only putting out the high 13s and never had any dead battery issues. Once I learned more about the charging system and that the original regulator's output could be adjusted, I "fixed" it, lol. I set it to the low 14s which from my research I concluded to be about ideal.
All of the VR115s and VR1010s I've tried so far have put out voltages in the low 14s. And something else I like about them is that they reduce their output by a few tenths of a volt after the battery is replenished from electric starting, dropping to the high 13s or right around 14. The factory combined reg/rec on my '83 doesn't do this, always putting out it's max of the low to mid 14s when the bike is revved.
All of the VR115s and VR1010s I've tried so far have put out voltages in the low 14s. And something else I like about them is that they reduce their output by a few tenths of a volt after the battery is replenished from electric starting, dropping to the high 13s or right around 14. The factory combined reg/rec on my '83 doesn't do this, always putting out it's max of the low to mid 14s when the bike is revved.
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Uncle Frank
XS650 Enthusiast
Beautiful! Looks like it's all go then. I'll post some pics and details when it's on the road.
