Alto 8 plate clutch hitting cover

[Wingedwheel]

Did you have 7 plates in the 256 basket? Those baskets came with 6. I swapped out my 256 for a later 447 and it also came with 6 plates. My point being is 8 maybe too many in that basket? When I did mine I must have done the math 100 times before I was confident I had the right number and thicknesses of fiber and metal plates.

 

[Fingerscrossed]

Did you have 7 plates in the 256 basket?

Yes, I did, and since it barely worked, I'll try a different clutch and see how that goes. I think you're right. I'll update here in a few weeks!

 

[Fingerscrossed]

Also, just to check this isn’t something wrong - is it normal to have side to side free play in the shaft? (Side to side if you’re looking at the engine top down)

Pre-tightening the clutch hub nut. After that there is no free play of course.

 

[Wingedwheel]

I got my set of plates from @gggGary as well. Take out one metal and one fiber and see how it works.

 

[Fingerscrossed]

I got my set of plates from @gggGary as well. Take out one metal and one fiber and see how it works.

Great idea - I’ll do that before ordering a different clutch

 

[Fingerscrossed]

There's a lot of great stuff in this thread, although no fix really, it just ends up working. My clutch measures the same as in the thread, with what looks like a similar amount of basket wobble, protrusion of the hub and distance between the needle bearing and spacer shaft.

It also looks like all clutch baskets are the same; it's the inner hub that changes between the early 6-plate and the 7-plate models.

The only thing different is that I'm missing the washer under the conical washer (labelled i in the diagrams). The hub nut isn't tightening against the shaft, so it shouldn't matter, but it's something to try. I'll run some more tests.

 

[Kevin Kruse]

This might not be related to your issue, but I'm just curious how you resolved the issue with your cush drive plate hardware rubbing the case after replacing the cush springs. I had the same issue after rebuilding mine and just wondering what you did? And what kit/hardware did you use? Thanks.

 

[Fingerscrossed]

This might not be related to your issue, but I'm just curious how you resolved the issue with your cush drive plate hardware rubbing the case after replacing the cush springs. I had the same issue after rebuilding mine and just wondering what you did? And what kit/hardware did you use? Thanks.

I used this kit, it's probably the same as from Mikes XS.

I used a Dremel to file down the nut and bolt slightly. It didn't need much, the nut is already very thin, so you want to take off as little as possible. I used red Locktite, messed up the threads with a hammer and punch, then used a very small amount of JB Weld over the nut and bolt. Probably unnecessary, but I didn't want it coming off. Make sure you check the clearance with a basket spin test.

 

[Kevin Kruse]

Yes I used the same kit from MikesXS, and I thought that's what you did. I did the same at first but I was skeptical about how thin the nut was after grinding, basically holding on with 1 thread.

After some researching and failed attempts at forming homemade rivets, I ended up using some M6x20mm binding bolts that I modified and also peened over the exposed threads into the nut side, they were a good fit and they're low profile on both sides similar to the factory rivets. I felt pretty confident with it afterwards, and I've put a couple thousand miles on it so far with no catastrophic failures yet!



Its silly they include hardware that obviously doesn't work, or maybe does work for some motors? I followed Pat D's cush drive rebuild post which seemed to work for him but not for another member who had to grind them down, and unfortunately gouged their cases. Not much info about it other than that post. Anyways thanks for the reply, I hope you get your clutch working!