An Adventure in Firsts: '83 XS650 Heritage Special Build/Rebuild

Jim

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straightened out by axle nut torque being correct and then having chain tension adjusters (axle adjusters?) same on both sides..?
Just so we're on the same page, you set the tensioners first, then torque the axle. Trying to adjust the tensioners with the nut tight will likely ruin the adjusters.
 

5twins

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Yes, you can snug the axle nut up with your hand, but don't make it much tighter than that or the axle isn't going to want to slide in the slot when you try to tighten up the adjusters.
 

MarieKaramazov

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Well I definitely didn't finish the other day. I got stuck trying to fold the damn lock tabs on the rear sprocket. Turns out I didn't have anything wooden or just not metal to really bend it back with. I did my best to pad the tools I was using to not damage the sprocket or bolts, but there are some dings and it's still not fully cooperating :mad: The pic is where it was at when I left it. I figure I'll just keep going at it and do my best to get them and snug against the bolt as I can; I don't see a few dings even on the sprocket being a functionality issue? (not that I'm aiming to ding it). Going back to it today and hopefully will actually be able to finish it all.
Also...this piece (pictured below) fell out. Not sure if I need to just stick it back on or if it falling out means I need re-secure it with some kind of sticky stuff?

I thought this was a goofy tool but it actually works well. Once the wheel is confirmed straight with the tool, later chain adjustment can be done counting the number of “turns” of the adjuster bolt. I count the flats as I move the bolt. On some bikes the chain guard gets in the way though.


View attachment 215676
Yeah! I saw that online. I think I'm going to snag one! Good to know you found it useful
 

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Jim

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Also...this piece (pictured below) fell out. Not sure if I need to just stick it back on or if it falling out means I need re-secure it with some kind of sticky stuff?
That's a spacer and dust seal. Clean everything up real good and smear some grease on it to hold it in place.

I figure I'll just keep going at it and do my best to get them and snug against the bolt as I can;
Yes, those look fine. Contrary to what was said previously, you don't need to bend 'em in 3 places.... :rolleyes:
Mine are bent like yours.... have been for 3+yrs... and have never worked loose. A pocket knife worked under 'em lifts 'em just enough to use a flat screwdriver to tap 'em into place.



1654464826141.png
 

Jim

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Something to remember for future reference...

Tighten the sprocket bolts down and make note of the flat you want to bend on the tab. Now loosen the bolt enough you can slide a screwdriver blade between the tab and the sprocket. Start tightening the bolt and the tab will bend up. Remove the screwdriver and finish tightening the bolt. Now the tab's bent exactly where it needs to be. Use a hammer and a blunt object to finish tapping the tab into place.
 

Jan_P

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I use a sharp chisel as a wedge to get the first bending, then follow it up with about a 1/4 x 1/4 x 6 steel bar i picked up somewhere
I also use a chisel or large flat screwdriver hammer and a drift if needed
a pliers also sometimes

Is the first pictre pre or post greasing ? if post I would give it some more .
 

5twins

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Once I have the lock tab bent up against the bolt head, I use a 1/4" drive extension as a drift and finish tapping the bent tab up tight against it with a small hammer.
 

xjwmx

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Contrary to what was said previously, you don't need to bend 'em in 3 places.... :rolleyes:
There is enough clearance in the hole of the tab that with only one side bent up the corner of the bolt head can push the bend out of the way and turn. They don't keep the bolts tight and may not even retain the bolt. It depends somewhat on where you got the tabs from, and if the sprocket ever actually rotates much...
 

Jim

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There is enough clearance in the hole of the tab that with only one side bent up the corner of the bolt head can push the bend out of the way and turn. They don't keep the bolts tight and may not even retain the bolt.
Pure horseshit.

....and if the sprocket ever actually rotates much...
...as opposed to the one you don't actually own anymore? :doh:
 

xjwmx

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Pure horseshit.


...as opposed to the one you don't actually own anymore? :doh:
Put an open end wrench on one of the bolts and turn it to the left and you just might see what I mean.

Friend...if I go anywhere I ride, and I've got the used up seat to prove it :pimp: :)
P1080375.png
 

5twins

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If you do as I mentioned and get both ends of the bent up tab tight to the bolt head, it's not moving at all
 

Jim

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Put an open end wrench on one of the bolts and turn it to the left and you just might see what I mean.

Friend...if I go anywhere I ride, and I've got the used up seat to prove it :pimp: :)View attachment 215911
Well don't be bashful xj.... while ya got your camera out, go ahead and show us a closeup of that sprocket.... the "3 tabs bent" you're preachin' is the only way to go.... jus' pick up the edge of that bag and give us a peak. :whistle:
 

xjwmx

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It's getting dark, but here is one of them. I wouldn't strive to rebut anybody, but I would just say it depends on several factors, mainly the size of the hole in the tab -- and when you bend it up you're also sliding the hole in the bad direction, perhaps even enlarging it. For one tab to work, the hole couldn't be any larger than the bolt diameter plus the distance from the circumference of a circle inscribed in the hexagon to the tip of one of the hex points. :geek: IOW, it obviously depends on the size of the hole

P1080379.png
 

xjwmx

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If you can't grasp that, imagine what would happen if the hole in the tab was huge, almost the size of the head. The bent up tab would just get pushed out of the way by the bolt as it turned. What I gave you was the formula for the size of the hole. My actual experience with them is the hole can be too big :)
 

Raymond

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That's a good job, Marie. The dust cap thing that fell out - different makes of bikes have different combinations of sleeves, spacers, distance pieces, then there's the adjusters. Sometimes you feel like the proverbial one-armed paper hanger trying to hold them all in place and get the wheel spindle - axle in US? - pushed through. As said above, grease makes useful glue to hold them. It can be very useful to find a wooden wedge or a few thin planks, place them under the tyre to put the wheel at the right height. Push the wheel as far forward as poss to hook the chain over, pull it back to line up with the slots in the swing-arm, grease the spindle and push it through. Gets easier when you've done it a few times. Or so they tell me . . .
 

bosco659

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Well I definitely didn't finish the other day. I got stuck trying to fold the damn lock tabs on the rear sprocket. Turns out I didn't have anything wooden or just not metal to really bend it back with. I did my best to pad the tools I was using to not damage the sprocket or bolts, but there are some dings and it's still not fully cooperating :mad: The pic is where it was at when I left it. I figure I'll just keep going at it and do my best to get them and snug against the bolt as I can; I don't see a few dings even on the sprocket being a functionality issue? (not that I'm aiming to ding it). Going back to it today and hopefully will actually be able to finish it all.
Also...this piece (pictured below) fell out. Not sure if I need to just stick it back on or if it falling out means I need re-secure it with some kind of sticky stuff?


Yeah! I saw that online. I think I'm going to snag one! Good to know you found it useful
Marie, that chain alignment tool may not work with the factory chain guard installed. My aftermarket guard sits high above the chain so it worked ok for me. Just a heads up before you go and spend money on the gadget.
 

jetmechmarty

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:rolleyes:Marie, that chain alignment tool may not work with the factory chain guard installed. My aftermarket guard sits high above the chain so it worked ok for me. Just a heads up before you go and spend money on the gadget.
That tool works as well on the bottom of the sprocket as it does the top. I just remember to remove it before rolling the motorcycle!
 
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