Any vintage car guys here?

AUTOMAN said:
Razor blade.
Anything else makes a mess.
Click to expand...
Wagner73 said:
Years ago while working for a gutter company, we used butyl rubber caulking to seal joints...and kept a small can of gasoline in the truck to get it off our hands. Worked great, but not sure how well it will work on butyl that's aged that long?
Click to expand...
gggGary said:
Assuming we are talking cured sealant, yoo tuber using gorilla tape....
I might try a rubber "wheel" in a drill.
From previous sealant removal tasks making a beveled/sharpened hardwood stick as a scraper is helpful. Wear latex coated knit gloves to help peel, ball up the sealant?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the responses, I figured it out but only after hours of internet research and a multitude of different chemicals and techniques. Before I get to that

I want you to have all of the background. This was a very ominous assignment with overtones of extreme personal danger.

So, no sh!t there I was, my girl had just had some major work done and I was driving her home. I finally found a resto mechanic that I felt I could trust

and we had come up with a plan where I would get the most bang for buck and get Jayne her groove back. First off he fixed that carb situation that I

ranted about earlier then had thetransmission rebuilt for the street, new suspension upgrade, front disk brakes installedthe stock 10 bolt was "about to

grenade" so I bought her a new Mosier 9" with Eaton Trutrac and multi leaf rear springs. She was finally rid of those obnoxiuos slapper bars. All the

mechanical stuff was done and now I could think about getting her painted. I wanted to address that first because there were leaks but I was told to do it

last to avoid mucking up expensive paint work.

I had a good 45 minute drive home and it was raining but she handled great, the breaks were so much better and the drive train solid. The defroster

was keeping the windshield clear but the back was fogged completely. When I got home the sail panell on the driver side had come undone and was

hanging from the headliner and I could see surface rust on the roof.. I figured that I should see exactly how bad this leak was. I had been avoiding it afraid

of what I might find. As I was tugging on the panell my knuckles pushed against the glass and the whole thing raised about 3/8 of an inch. Frozen in pose,

staring in disbelief, eyeswide open, I thought "naw". I reached forward and gently lifted the window until it made contact with the chrome moulding. I had

thought that I would find a giant cancerous hole but it was an unsealed window held in only by the moulding that was causing the leak. And I had been

driving it in that condition for the last decade, I had inspected the outside looked for the leak in the trunk and the back seat but had never tried lifting the

glass from the inside. I removed the moulding grabbed a plunger and used it to lift the window out of the channel. . This is what I found IMG_3291[1].JPGIMG_3292[1].JPG The butyl seal was dried and hardened and there was silicone that had been smooshed out

around the window when whoever installed it set it in place. Oh, and there were about half of the clkips holding the moulding in. But as luck would have

it the window channel looked pretty sound and nothing like the repair videos on you tube. I searched everywhere for rusted out holes but found none. All

the studs were in place and there was a little fiberglass reenforcing the steel in places but it looks alright to me. My plan was to clean it up and reinstall the

window until I find the right place to have it painted. A temporary fix until the body guys can properly inspect it.

I tried the tape method but it was too hardened, useds a heat gun and scraper to get most of the gunk off but it left a film. I tried multiple different

chemicals and nothing really worked that well . I was wondering if I was wasting my time since it was going to be removed anyway later.. I tried home made

stripper (vinegar and baking soda, acetone engine degreaser, rubbing alchohol, goo gone, evaporust, and even aircraft adhesive remover (36$). Then I tried

mineral spirits (paint thinner) last and it worked best. Of course this was after asking the question that led to this. I thought that paint thinner would be the most likely solvent to damage paint


IMG_3304[1].JPG This is how it looks cleaned up. I was going to install it today but reralized that I hadn't ordered enough of the clips. I figure

that even if I missed some sealant or rust that it can't be any worse thanit was. Anyway that's why I asked. I know that there are forums for this but I always

talk to you guys first
 
John Regular said:
Thanks for the responses, I figured it out but only after hours of internet research and a multitude of different chemicals and techniques. Before I get to that

I want you to have all of the background. This was a very ominous assignment with overtones of extreme personal danger.

So, no sh!t there I was, my girl had just had some major work done and I was driving her home. I finally found a resto mechanic that I felt I could trust

and we had come up with a plan where I would get the most bang for buck and get Jayne her groove back. First off he fixed that carb situation that I

ranted about earlier then had thetransmission rebuilt for the street, new suspension upgrade, front disk brakes installedthe stock 10 bolt was "about to

grenade" so I bought her a new Mosier 9" with Eaton Trutrac and multi leaf rear springs. She was finally rid of those obnoxiuos slapper bars. All the

mechanical stuff was done and now I could think about getting her painted. I wanted to address that first because there were leaks but I was told to do it

last to avoid mucking up expensive paint work.

I had a good 45 minute drive home and it was raining but she handled great, the breaks were so much better and the drive train solid. The defroster

was keeping the windshield clear but the back was fogged completely. When I got home the sail panell on the driver side had come undone and was

hanging from the headliner and I could see surface rust on the roof.. I figured that I should see exactly how bad this leak was. I had been avoiding it afraid

of what I might find. As I was tugging on the panell my knuckles pushed against the glass and the whole thing raised about 3/8 of an inch. Frozen in pose,

staring in disbelief, eyeswide open, I thought "naw". I reached forward and gently lifted the window until it made contact with the chrome moulding. I had

thought that I would find a giant cancerous hole but it was an unsealed window held in only by the moulding that was causing the leak. And I had been

driving it in that condition for the last decade, I had inspected the outside looked for the leak in the trunk and the back seat but had never tried lifting the

glass from the inside. I removed the moulding grabbed a plunger and used it to lift the window out of the channel. . This is what I foundView attachment 366776View attachment 366777 The butyl seal was dried and hardened and there was silicone that had been smooshed out

around the window when whoever installed it set it in place. Oh, and there were about half of the clkips holding the moulding in. But as luck would have

it the window channel looked pretty sound and nothing like the repair videos on you tube. I searched everywhere for rusted out holes but found none. All

the studs were in place and there was a little fiberglass reenforcing the steel in places but it looks alright to me. My plan was to clean it up and reinstall the

window until I find the right place to have it painted. A temporary fix until the body guys can properly inspect it.

I tried the tape method but it was too hardened, useds a heat gun and scraper to get most of the gunk off but it left a film. I tried multiple different

chemicals and nothing really worked that well . I was wondering if I was wasting my time since it was going to be removed anyway later.. I tried home made

stripper (vinegar and baking soda, acetone engine degreaser, rubbing alchohol, goo gone, evaporust, and even aircraft adhesive remover (36$). Then I tried

mineral spirits (paint thinner) last and it worked best. Of course this was after asking the question that led to this. I thought that paint thinner would be the most likely solvent to damage paint


View attachment 366778 This is how it looks cleaned up. I was going to install it today but reralized that I hadn't ordered enough of the clips. I figure

that even if I missed some sealant or rust that it can't be any worse thanit was. Anyway that's why I asked. I know that there are forums for this but I always

talk to you guys first
Click to expand...
Glad it worked out! What car is it, can't really tell from the pics? Gen I Camaro?

I almost put a Moser rear end in my '73 Z/28...great call! But I would 've gone 12-bolt to stay closer to home.
 
Wagner73 said:
Glad it worked out! What car is it, can't really tell from the pics? Gen I Camaro?

I almost put a Moser rear end in my '73 Z/28...great call! But I would 've gone 12-bolt to stay closer to home.
Click to expand...
She's a 68 Camaro Frankencoupe as I like to call her. Some parts are from other vehicles or aftermarket so not original. I was conflicted over going 12 bolt

or 9" but one of the best words of advice that I hear most often and seems to ring true is to ask yourself honestly what do you intend to use the vehicle for

and build it accordingly. The shop owner asked that same question. Durability and simplicity over performance and modern tech. It's funny that you had a

73 because in highschool my best friend's older brother had one that he drove us all to school in. It wasn't a z28 and it looked kind of shabby from the

outside but it ran solid. It never sputtered when he hit the throttle or stopped at a light it just had this low rumble drone sound that was kind of soothing at

idle. I swear though he could steer that thing with the back tires and often sent me flying into the back quarter panell since I always had to sit back there. That's

what made me love muscle cars in the first place so that's what I said I wanted, predictable controlable power durable components and updated brakes and suspension.

What was cool about this guy (the builder) is he said that I had most of that alreadfy and didn't need some of the high dollar pieces. I went with the 9" off his

recommendation. I really did feel conflicted but nothing else in the drive train is original. The 350 came out of an 87 truck, the TH400 was a straight spline

out of an RV or something, the 10 bolt was probably original but it was about to grenade in his own words. I want it to look as original as it can but I don't

believe that an aftermarket 9" should be considered blasphemy by the purests (I'm not accusing you of being one). It's not like dropping a 351 in in her, that
would be douchey IMHO. To make up I think I am going to have her painted in her original color and trim. maybe even the vinyl top but I'm not sure about

that. I had the fisher rocker panel covers off and was looking at the color preserved under it and it's kind of growing on me. If I decoded the cowl tag right

she started off in blue teal with delux trim and a vinyl top, I'm not sure about striping but a bumble bee would really set it off. I'm still discovering little

details and quirks that I had no clue about such as I was unaware that the rocker panells serve as gutters for water running down the windsheild into the cowl.

Oh and also they often fill up with leaves and rodent nests, especially if someone instals speakers in the kick panel breaking the seal to the air ductIMG_3299[1].JPG Like that.
 
John Regular said:
She's a 68 Camaro Frankencoupe as I like to call her. Some parts are from other vehicles or aftermarket so not original. I was conflicted over going 12 bolt

or 9" but one of the best words of advice that I hear most often and seems to ring true is to ask yourself honestly what do you intend to use the vehicle for

and build it accordingly. The shop owner asked that same question. Durability and simplicity over performance and modern tech. It's funny that you had a

73 because in highschool my best friend's older brother had one that he drove us all to school in. It wasn't a z28 and it looked kind of shabby from the

outside but it ran solid. It never sputtered when he hit the throttle or stopped at a light it just had this low rumble drone sound that was kind of soothing at

idle. I swear though he could steer that thing with the back tires and often sent me flying into the back quarter panell since I always had to sit back there. That's

what made me love muscle cars in the first place so that's what I said I wanted, predictable controlable power durable components and updated brakes and suspension.

What was cool about this guy (the builder) is he said that I had most of that alreadfy and didn't need some of the high dollar pieces. I went with the 9" off his

recommendation. I really did feel conflicted but nothing else in the drive train is original. The 350 came out of an 87 truck, the TH400 was a straight spline

out of an RV or something, the 10 bolt was probably original but it was about to grenade in his own words. I want it to look as original as it can but I don't

believe that an aftermarket 9" should be considered blasphemy by the purests (I'm not accusing you of being one). It's not like dropping a 351 in in her, that
would be douchey IMHO. To make up I think I am going to have her painted in her original color and trim. maybe even the vinyl top but I'm not sure about

that. I had the fisher rocker panel covers off and was looking at the color preserved under it and it's kind of growing on me. If I decoded the cowl tag right

she started off in blue teal with delux trim and a vinyl top, I'm not sure about striping but a bumble bee would really set it off. I'm still discovering little

details and quirks that I had no clue about such as I was unaware that the rocker panells serve as gutters for water running down the windsheild into the cowl.

Oh and also they often fill up with leaves and rodent nests, especially if someone instals speakers in the kick panel breaking the seal to the air ductView attachment 366801 Like that.
Click to expand...

No problem with a 9"... it's the durable, everyman's rear end. Certainly you will find more under Fords, but lots of other places as well...and it can pull that that off with ease. Conversely, you will likely not see a 12-bolt under anything other than GM, nor an 8-3/4" or Dana 60 under anything else but a Mopar.

I love Gen 1's. Friend in OH has a '69 that in late 2024 we trailered to Maryland so that Jerry MacNeish could look at it and see if it's a COPO...it is!!

My '73 was a real Z (Canadian car originally) and I restored it. Numbers matching except someone subbed an M20 for the M21 someplace along the line, so I put a Tremec TKO 600 5-spd in it...much nicer on the freeway with 3.73 gears!

Here's a few pics...striped and painted interior, finished interior, finished engine bay.
Int1.JPG
Interior.JPG
Engine.JPG


Best of luck on your project, sounds like fun!!
 
Wagner73 said:
No problem with a 9"... it's the durable, everyman's rear end. Certainly you will find more under Fords, but lots of other places as well...and it can pull that that off with ease. Conversely, you will likely not see a 12-bolt under anything other than GM, nor an 8-3/4" or Dana 60 under anything else but a Mopar.

I love Gen 1's. Friend in OH has a '69 that in late 2024 we trailered to Maryland so that Jerry MacNeish could look at it and see if it's a COPO...it is!!

My '73 was a real Z (Canadian car originally) and I restored it. Numbers matching except someone subbed an M20 for the M21 someplace along the line, so I put a Tremec TKO 600 5-spd in it...much nicer on the freeway with 3.73 gears!

Here's a few pics...striped and painted interior, finished interior, finished engine bay.View attachment 366809View attachment 366810View attachment 366811

Best of luck on your project, sounds like fun!!
Click to expand...
God I wish my floor pan looked that good
 
Wagner73 said:
No problem with a 9"... it's the durable, everyman's rear end. Certainly you will find more under Fords, but lots of other places as well...and it can pull that that off with ease. Conversely, you will likely not see a 12-bolt under anything other than GM, nor an 8-3/4" or Dana 60 under anything else but a Mopar.

I love Gen 1's. Friend in OH has a '69 that in late 2024 we trailered to Maryland so that Jerry MacNeish could look at it and see if it's a COPO...it is!!

My '73 was a real Z (Canadian car originally) and I restored it. Numbers matching except someone subbed an M20 for the M21 someplace along the line, so I put a Tremec TKO 600 5-spd in it...much nicer on the freeway with 3.73 gears!

Here's a few pics...striped and painted interior, finished interior, finished engine bay.View attachment 366809View attachment 366810View attachment 366811

Best of luck on your project, sounds like fun!!
Click to expand...
I "cheated" in one area (ok, I cheated in way more than one area to get better parts / better performance). And that was the steering wheel. The "comfort grip" wheel as shown was only an option on the 70-1/2 cars, not later. But I loved it so much - and hated the Vega-esque 4-spoke wheel it came with - so there you go. Also subbed in an oil pressure gauge in place of the clock, but it looks stock... thanks "Gaugeworks" in NC!!😊
 
Wagner73 said:
I "cheated" in one area (ok, I cheated in way more than one area to get better parts / better performance). And that was the steering wheel. The "comfort grip" wheel as shown was only an option on the 70-1/2 cars, not later. But I loved it so much - and hated the Vega-esque 4-spoke wheel it came with - so there you go. Also subbed in an oil pressure gauge in place of the clock, but it looks stock... thanks "Gaugeworks" in NC!!😊
Click to expand...
Mine has one of those Grant GTs that belong in a lowered 90s era mini truck. It's shameful
 
Kevin Werner said:
What private island did he retire on?:cheers:
Click to expand...
Actually, he's just an average Joe like us (a little younger than me, maybe ~64?), but bought the car in 1979 as his daily & w/e sometimes racer. Replaced body panels, repainted original Garnet Red...car's original L72 427 was long gone when he got the car, replaced with a garden variety 2-bolt 454 out of a Monte. But still had the original and somewhat rare M22.

The key thing is that, unlike me and many others, he figured out a way to keep this car for 45+ years thru 3 intrastate moves, raising two girls, 6+ job changes, et al. And ended up with something REALLY worth having!
 
Wagner73 said:
No problem with a 9"... it's the durable, everyman's rear end. Certainly you will find more under Fords, but lots of other places as well...and it can pull that that off with ease. Conversely, you will likely not see a 12-bolt under anything other than GM, nor an 8-3/4" or Dana 60 under anything else but a Mopar.

I love Gen 1's. Friend in OH has a '69 that in late 2024 we trailered to Maryland so that Jerry MacNeish could look at it and see if it's a COPO...it is!!

My '73 was a real Z (Canadian car originally) and I restored it. Numbers matching except someone subbed an M20 for the M21 someplace along the line, so I put a Tremec TKO 600 5-spd in it...much nicer on the freeway with 3.73 gears!

Here's a few pics...striped and painted interior, finished interior, finished engine bay.View attachment 366809View attachment 366810View attachment 366811

Best of luck on your project, sounds like fun!!
Click to expand...
Wow! That is one beautiful resto
 
I know none of the following would be on the most wanted list but just on the chance someone is looking for an owners manual I have the following manuals:
1950 Buick Owner's Manual
1960 Dodge Operating and Maintenance Guide
1962 Ford Registered Owner's Manual (Galaxie Galaxie 500 and Station Wagons)
1964 Rambler American Owner's Manual
1968 AMX and Javelin Owner's Manual
1982 Chevrolet Cavalier Owner's Manual

If anyone wants one or more price very reasonable, basically pay for shipping and a few dollars for gas money to Post Office and back home, maybe ten miles!

Yes I did own all of them at one time or the other, well dad did own the Javelin but I did drive it a lot. It had the little 6 cylinder with an automatic!
 
kshansen said:
1962 Ford Registered Owner's Manual (Galaxie Galaxie
Click to expand...

kshansen said:
1968 AMX and Javelin Owner's Manual

Yes I did own all of them at one time or the other, well dad did own the Javelin but I did drive it a lot. It had the little 6 cylinder with an automatic!
Click to expand...
Well, maybe to make up for the anemic AMC, the '62 Ford was a 406 Tri-power?!!😄
 

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