Anybody had any water jet cutting done?

Downeaster

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I have a hydraulic sicklebar trimmer (Sabre Samurai) that clamps to the side of the bucket on my loader. Not terribly stiff. In fact, due to the leverage of the mount and the thin sides of my bucket, it flops around like a wounded duck. Plus, clamping it to the bucket puts the weight significantly forward of the loader arms, which doesn't help.

I bought a blank SSQA (Skid Steer Quick Attach) plate that mounts to my loader arms nicely, will pull things a foot or more closer to the tractor and allows for quick mount/dismount versus dicking around with set screws and alignment, etc.

Plan A was to modify the original bracket and weld it to the SSQA which would stiffen things up nicely. However, looking at the bracket, I'd have to chop it up pretty significantly and if it doesn't work or I don't like it, I'm screwed.

A spare fully adjustable mounting bracket with spring loaded break-away (all of which is a requirement) is $400 plus shipping.

I'm wondering if having the relevant pieces cut out on a water jet and weld up a new mount myself would save me any money.

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I would need the two pieces with the arced adjustment slots cut in them. It's 10mm steel, but 1/2 inch would be fine.

Two questions:

1. Any clue at all what I should expect to pay? I realize this would vary by area/market but a ballpark figure would be helpful in making a decision. I do have two shops in a reasonable distance that have water jet cutting capability.

2. Do they need a CAD drawing to work from, or can I just leave the original for them to copy. If they need the CAD, it would obviously be cheaper for me to come up with a CAD drawing than to have them do it.
 
Just buying a second mount would be a helluva lot cheaper!

I'm going to visit a couple of shops tomorrow. Water Jet was just my first thought - plasma or flame cut would be plenty accurate enough.

It's beginning to look like this project might get beyond my budget pretty quickly tho.
 
water jet cutting is excellent i have had hundreds of parts done, in titanium, lithium, stainless steel, copper etc strangely the only thing i ever had done in steel was the plate for dismantling crank shafts

i sometimes give the water jet people a DXF file, or often, when i want something like washers or a flange just a sketch

i use two suppliers, one is a friend so it is cheap, the other we use for head gasket sand he is not expensive, in the USA it must be similar, there must be numerous forms doing water jet cutting
 
Not sure exactly which part .
and maybe I am getting old ..Having been at the same shop as an Old School Blacksmith.
I have also worked with people that were as a wizard with the Acetylene /Oxygen torch.

Since these are flat pieces ..there are these small wheels one can put on the torch.
Also exists circular cutter guides.

Draw the lines on a flat piece and cut it out .. There can be a small hitch at startup
But all in all .. workable ..giving some mm .s for filing to the finished.Dimension.

Often the drawing .programming adjusting . Making test runs takes to much work when it comes to one or two pieces.

Perhaps draw it on a paper template --making the ...markup simple and
Phh...ssshhhhh cut them .

Smiths working at constructions sites do this type of pieces rather often . In their shops
For railings and wahtnot . And weld it at the site.

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I have found it great for materials up to about 15mm thickness after about 20mm the cut edge tends to wander off square. I was told it is a factor of the jet fanning out. This could be the local machine and not the norm I don't know.

If you cant supply a drawing .DXE format it is more expensive as the operator needs to redraw it.
One tip on the drawing is to include a square box of a known size say 25x 25 mm. The operator ues this to check the correct scale before the work is cut.
 
I've cut 1/2" sheet with the Zeny. :whistle:
Make a template from some plywood and give it a go.
 
Well, it turns out I'm a dumbass...Surprise, eh?

This guy had the same idea and pointed out that the original mount will slip over a piece of 2x2 tubing and pin in place without modification.

Simple, cheap and versatile.

Sometimes I get so wrapped up in "cool" that I forget The First Law of Engineering: KISS
 
Well, it turns out I'm a dumbass...Surprise, eh?

This guy had the same idea and pointed out that the original mount will slip over a piece of 2x2 tubing and pin in place without modification.

Simple, cheap and versatile.

Sometimes I get so wrapped up in "cool" that I forget The First Law of Engineering: KISS
I tend to overthink things too. Glad you have it resolved.
 
I had a caliper mount for my KLR. I had a Autocad file that they used, worked great
 
A shop here near Atlanta I've used off n on for the past 30 years. Typically they like to work from a CAD file, most any format but can most always work from DXF/DWG
I have provided just drawings but they charge extra to program from those. I would assume the same is true with just pencil sketches on napkins ;)
Thicker or harder a material is the longer it takes and when it comes to water jet what you're paying for is time. The speed is based on thickness and material because that determines how fast they can cut through and travel making a smooth cut through the entire thickness with out lag or roughness at the far end.
There is of course a kerf as with a saw blade and they can compensate for that. You'll not achieve a "machined" finish but if your parts aren't dimensionally critical an as cut finish is not unattractive for outer edges of plates and items such as you're wanting.
I wouldn't be surprised to find it more expensive than you might think unless you "know a guy"
 
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