Anyone know how to repair this ?

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Grewth

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Only a petty thing.
I've just taken delivery of a '70 - '73 Clymer manual for the Yamaha 650 Twins.
I've already got a couple of the later editions, maybe upto '76 and an even later one too.
But I especially wanted a '70 to '73 edition because it only covers the early type bikes with the lightweight frame made prior to the 1974 revamp.
But the problem is that as with most Clymer manuals from that era, the spine of the book is breaking down and all the pages are starting to come loose.
Looks like the book was originally "bound" by placing all the pages in a tight stack then dipping them in a shallow layer of adhesive resin.
But there again, my total knowledge of book binding could probably be written on the back of a postage stamp.
Anyone got any idea of how to restore this book ?
Oh, BTW, if you think that I could just go and easily grab another one in much better condition, the Clymer manuals are quite rare in the UK, well the early editions anyway, although there seems to be plenty in the US.
And they ALL tend to disintegrate like this anyway, knowing a fix would be pretty useful
 
I’ve got a factory manual for my new Suzuki, the dang thing is thick as a phone book and it is doing the same thing, the pages are coming loose and sliding out. It is pre drilled for a three ring binder, which I’m considering buying for it.
I wonder if that Clymer book couldn’t be drilled and placed in a three ring binder too? I know that’s not what you’re asking, but I think your only alternative is to tape up the spline and keep gluing your loose pages back in.

Taken from a website page “How to Repair a Book Spine:”

https://www.chromalabel.com/blogs/s...ral, book spine repair,an outer layer of tape.

IMG_7414.jpeg
 
You must've seen BBC The Repair Shop? A few times they've had a book repairer to sort out somebody's family heirloom bible or a WW2 code-breaker's dairy or whatever. So I've seen excellent repairs accomplished on volumes in much worse condition that yours. Not saying I could do it, mind.

Maybe glue would work? Or you could separate all the pages, paste strips of thin tissue down the inside edge of each page to extend it slightly, stitch stacks together, bind them like a traditionally bound book, make a new cover and paste the old cover onto it? Cor, that sounds like a helluva lot of work though . . .
 
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Not clear in the picture if the pages are loose or the just cover
But my guess is glue does it
First without the cover there ---some glue on the edge where the pages are bound.
Then glue the tear in the cover maybe with a backing strip thin paper

Then open the cover so it is flat on the table .Glue on the surface where the pages goes
and then place the pages standing there
90 degrees against the cover that is flat on the table . .'
A clamp or a couple can be needed so the pages don't open
Support the pages with something let the glue dry

If a few pages are loose .I sometimes glue a loose page to the ones closest
as far in as possible close to the binding.
Not ideal but it wont fall out. and loosing it

There are professionals doing these jobs a major library has people that can be asked and offer advice or even do it for you
 
The binder has advantages and drawbacks We don't have the same type here and the holes can be destroyed and one needs to reinforce them
Doable

The plastic is a good thing
Here we have plastic pockets with holes in them

But I would probably go for the Glue and .... Plastic removable on the cover only. Used to do that with school books back in the day.
tearing out the pages is a one way action before and after We are not talking a Book of large value perhaps what do I know
I believe no one pays for a binder but can do so for a clean book.
But for use in the shop sure it can be better with the binder and plastic





1721302903126.png
 
Many thanks for everyone's suggestions.
I think for practicality, the ring binder and the plastic jackets is the best solution.
But only because this book is in such a rough condition, pages that have come out, loose cover, dog eared pages, and lots of grubby oily fingerprints everywhere.
I've been looking at how the spine was constructed, and I'm pretty sure that the resin backing strip will peel off in one piece, or at least just a few pieces.
Then all the pages will be loose, no need to tear them out.

Now, if I come across the same edition in much better condition, I'll buy it and then try to restore the spine properly.
Basically, I'll peel off the resin strip, make a rudimentary clamp to hold the pages together, then apply something like an epoxy adhesive to bind them all together.
The trick would seem to be finding something of the right viscosity, to be drawn into the paper by just the right amount.
 
Grewth said:
View attachment 331156
Only a petty thing.
I've just taken delivery of a '70 - '73 Clymer manual for the Yamaha 650 Twins.
I've already got a couple of the later editions, maybe upto '76 and an even later one too.
But I especially wanted a '70 to '73 edition because it only covers the early type bikes with the lightweight frame made prior to the 1974 revamp.
But the problem is that as with most Clymer manuals from that era, the spine of the book is breaking down and all the pages are starting to come loose.
Looks like the book was originally "bound" by placing all the pages in a tight stack then dipping them in a shallow layer of adhesive resin.
But there again, my total knowledge of book binding could probably be written on the back of a postage stamp.
Anyone got any idea of how to restore this book ?
Oh, BTW, if you think that I could just go and easily grab another one in much better condition, the Clymer manuals are quite rare in the UK, well the early editions anyway, although there seems to be plenty in the US.
And they ALL tend to disintegrate like this anyway, knowing a fix would be pretty useful
Click to expand...
You could give rubber cement a try. there are several brands available, like gorilla and elmers among others.
 
5twins said:
The 3 ring binder is the way to go.
Click to expand...

Raymond said:
with
Click to expand...

Adamc said:
That would be my route; and I would laminate the pages first, for easy wipe clean from greasy fingers.
Click to expand...

Jan_P said:
The binder has advantages and drawbacks We don't have the same type here and the holes can be destroyed and one needs to reinforce them
Doable

The plastic is a good thing
Here we have plastic pockets with holes in them

But I would probably go for the Glue and .... Plastic removable on the cover only. Used to do that with school books back in the day.
tearing out the pages is a one way action before and after We are not talking a Book of large value perhaps what do I know
I believe no one pays for a binder but can do so for a clean book.
But for use in the shop sure it can be better with the binder and plastic





View attachment 331210
Click to expand...

Grewth said:
I think for practicality, the ring binder and the plastic jackets is the best solution
Click to expand...
I used this method for a downloaded and printed factory service manual. I slipped the pages into clear plastic document protectors and placed into a three ring binder. This book has the advantage of staying open to the page I’m using and I can clean the grease off of it.
 

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