Barn Find Build - Cafe Racer

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Chernobyld

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Just to give a little background. I have been wanting to build a Cafe Racer for years, but never really jumped into it. I have been searching "For Sale" ads for the last couple months and finally made a purchase earlier this week. I bought a '77 that i found on Facebook Marketplace, it was supposedly a "barn find". The original owner passed away and the son then had it for years, where he kept it in a basement. I then purchased it from the neighbor of the original owners son, in which it was gifted to him somehow. I know there is going to be time and money involved with this as the bike does not currently run. It turns over but does not start. I'm starting simple with just Battery and plugs, but I highly doubt that its going to be that easy of a solution. I'll work my way from there and hoping within the month getting it at least started and idling.
 

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Welcome to the forum and good luck with your project. Love to see some photos as it is now and as you progress. At the top of the page is a link you can click on that will take you to the Tech section, tons of useful info there. Also lots of knowledgeable members here to ask questions of. My advice is to keep your questions right here in this thread you’ve already started, that way there is a continuity to your specific bike and problems as you go along. 😉

Also, lots of free manuals here,

https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/2011/01/10/xs650-manuals/
 
Welcome and please do keep a thread running. :twocents: Clean the inside of the gas tank BEFORE sending a bunch of rust and varnish into the carbs. Acetone does a good job of dissolving ancient gas varnish that's trapping equally ancient debris and rust. If you aren't saving paint, no worries, if you are then use caution as the acetone will soften paint n decals. I'm over the top but have petcock hole block off plates, one with a ball valve to aid the tank cleaning process.
If you just have to hear it run early on (I'm that guy too) use a test tank.
 

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gggGary said:
Welcome and please do keep a thread running. :twocents: Clean the inside of the gas tank BEFORE sending a bunch of rust and varnish into the carbs. Acetone does a good job of dissolving ancient gas varnish that's trapping equally ancient debris and rust. If you aren't saving paint, no worries, if you are then use caution as the acetone will soften paint n decals. I'm over the top but have petcock hole block off plates, one with a ball valve to aid the tank cleaning process.
If you just have to hear it run early on (I'm that guy too) use a test tank.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the advice, i crossed off cleaning the tank over this past weekend. The tank was not in too rough of shape on the inside, but still thought it should be completed.
 
The '77 is a good model. You'll at least want to drop a float bowl and have a look inside before attempting to start it. If it's all gummed up in there then trying to start it will suck junk into the carb orifices and plug them up even worse. Here's a bowl from a '77 set I recently refurbished, pretty gunked up .....

Float&BowlDirty.jpg


But they cleaned up OK and run nicely ......

Finished.jpg


Mounted3.jpg


Mounted4.jpg


This is what I started with, pretty nasty, lol, but I could tell by the pristine Phillips screw heads they had never been touched .....

On500-2.jpg


On500.jpg
 
5twins said:
The '77 is a good model. You'll at least want to drop a float bowl and have a look inside before attempting to start it. If it's all gummed up in there then trying to start it will suck junk into the carb orifices and plug them up even worse. Here's a bowl from a '77 set I recently refurbished, pretty gunked up .....

View attachment 350981

But they cleaned up OK and run nicely ......

View attachment 350982

View attachment 350983

View attachment 350984

This is what I started with, pretty nasty, lol, but I could tell by the pristine Phillips screw heads they had never been touched .....

View attachment 350985
Added to the list of things to do
Click to expand...
 
UPDATE: THE BIKE RUNS AND DRIVES!
I have been working on the bike a decent amount lately. I have accomplished: Cleaning Gas Tank and carburetors, installed electronic ignition and dual output coil. I also disassembled and reassembled brake caliper due to the front brakes are not working, i figured the caliper piston was seized. I missed on taking pictures but will start posting them here to better document the process.

I did run into a few issues with cleaning the carbs and disassembling the caliper. When breaking down the carbs, the slide on the right carburetor was stuck, it was gunked up, I sprayed the top and bottom with PB Blaster and let it sit for a two days. I then used the handle of a larger pair of tongue and groove pliers (channellock) to pry up on the slide a little and it broke free. The plier handles were coated in a thick rubber to prevent damage to carb or slide. I then cleaned the slide and the carb with Carb/Parts Cleaner and everything then operated nice and smooth.

The brake caliper piston was also stuck, I sprayed Carb/Parts Cleaner into the caliper through the brake line banjo bolt hole and around the outside of the piston. I then sprayed the same areas with PB Blaster and let sit overnight. The next day I used a pair of vice grips on the caliper piston to try to twist it and was fortunate i got it to break free. I know using vice grips was possibly going to damage the piston, but I was already intending on buying a new caliper, this was just more of a thought it seeing if it was salvageable or rebuildable. There was very slight rust on the caliper piston, but after cleaning it I don't think it will be much of an issue. I was able to reuse the seal in the caliper as it was in great condition just had gunk that needed cleaned off.

Once i reassembled the caliper and tried to bleed the brakes I was still having issues and could not get them to work. I then noticed the piston for the master cylinder was stuck in. I tore the master cylinder down slightly and cleaned out the reservoir as there was some sludge in there clogging the holes to allow the brake fluid to flow. I got master cylinder piston freed by placing a Allen wrench into the brake line banjo bolt hole and slightly tapping with a hammer operates smooth now. I think I need to completely remove the reservoir from the master cylinder and clean it out better as the brakes still will not bleed. This could also be due to some of that sludge may be in the brake lines not allowing the new fluid to pass through. I am going to do process of elimination and will let you know the results.
 
Last edited:
Chernobyld said:
UPDATE: THE BIKE RUNS AND DRIVES!
I have been working on the bike a decent amount lately. I have accomplished: Cleaning Gas Tank and carburetors, installed electronic ignition and dual output coil. I also disassembled and reassembled brake caliper due to the front brakes are not working, i figured the caliper piston was seized. I missed on taking pictures but will start posting them here to better document the process.

I did run into a few issues with cleaning the carbs and disassembling the caliper. When breaking down the carbs, the slide on the right carburetor was stuck, it was gunked up, I sprayed the top and bottom with PB Blaster and let it sit for a two days. I then used the handle of a larger pair of tongue and groove pliers (channellock) to pry up on the slide a little and it broke free. The plier handles were coated in a thick rubber to prevent damage to carb or slide. I then cleaned the slide and the carb with Carb/Parts Cleaner and everything then operated nice and smooth.

The brake caliper piston was also stuck, I sprayed Carb/Parts Cleaner into the caliper through the brake line banjo bolt hole and around the outside of the piston. I then sprayed the same areas with PB Blaster and let sit overnight. The next day I used a pair of vice grips on the caliper piston to try to twist it and was fortunate i got it to break free. I know using vice grips was possibly going to damage the piston, but I was already intending on buying a new caliper, this was just more of a thought it seeing if it was salvageable or rebuildable. There was very slight rust on the caliper piston, but after cleaning it I don't think it will be much of an issue. I was able to reuse the seal in the caliper as it was in great condition just had gunk that needed cleaned off.

Once i reassembled the caliper and tried to bleed the brakes I was still having issues and could not get them to work. I then noticed the piston for the master cylinder was stuck in. I tore the master cylinder down slightly and cleaned out the reservoir as there was some sludge in there clogging the holes to allow the brake fluid to flow. I got master cylinder piston freed by placing a Allen wrench into the brake line banjo bolt hole and slightly tapping with a hammer operates smooth now. I think I need to completely remove the reservoir from the master cylinder and clean it out better as the brakes still will not bleed. This could also be due to some of that sludge may be in the brake lines not allowing the new fluid to pass through. I am going to do process of elimination and will let you know the results.
Click to expand...
You need to disassemble the MC, the piston, spring seals etc. are plugged with spooge. Trust me, do it.
 

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