Battery v. Capacitor

no debate.....big battery equals better experience.....i will and do accept the challenges/issues with a small battery and capacitor. thanks...
 
I had a Sparx setup on my '69 Bonneville years ago. It was fun as hell one night when I pulled in the clutch and the engine died. No lights. It started right back up when I released the clutch. I put a small 12V, 2Ah battery from an EXIT light in it. It started much easier after than and gave me a bit of reserves on the voltage. The capacitor setup is cool, but not very practical.
 
I have run into the opposite, go figure :laugh:

It is worth checking your PMA for proper output and condition, just to make sure.

AND, you can run both if you like, a Capacitor and a battery, that way if a battery craps out, you can still get home on the cap :wink2:

Hugh[/QUOTE
 
You only need one or the other, not both,
Leo
Leo on the powerdynamo you don't need ether, i ran without, what i had to do is wire my lights so they come on when the bike starts. This keep the regulator under control.
 
I have run into the opposite, go figure :laugh:

It is worth checking your PMA for proper output and condition, just to make sure.

AND, you can run both if you like, a Capacitor and a battery, that way if a battery craps out, you can still get home on the cap :wink2:
Hugh
 
if one wires BOTH battery AND capacitor, does it matter which comes first? or is the order irrelevant because they're parallel? any extra fuses involved?
 
if one wires BOTH battery AND capacitor, does it matter which comes first? or is the order irrelevant because they're parallel? any extra fuses involved?
Why would you wire in both? The ONLY reason to even use a capacitor is to eliminate the battery. If you have a battery there is no need for a cap. If wired in parallel you will increase amperage Batt A+ Cap A= total A wired in series will increase voltage Batt Vdc + Cap Vdc= total Vdc but since caps work on a constant discharge under load it will cause constant fluctuations in either amperage or voltage.
 
the only reason i can think of is already included in the quote from hugh (hugh's home built):
AND, you can run both if you like, a Capacitor and a battery, that way if a battery craps out, you can still get home on the cap :wink2:
Hugh
 
the only reason i can think of is already included in the quote from hugh (hugh's home built):
AND, you can run both if you like, a Capacitor and a battery, that way if a battery craps out, you can still get home on the cap :wink2:
Hugh
So just system redundancy? It sounds good in theory but the reality is that caps are WAY more susceptible to failure than batteries. Chances are if your battery takes poop the cap was dead long ago. I wouldn't want to try find a place to hide more shit on an already space limited chopper to hide more electronics that probably won't really do any good anyway. Regular battery maintenance is pretty easy to do. But thats just my opinion, with isn't worth much.
 
I have run into the opposite, go figure :laugh:

It is worth checking your PMA for proper output and condition, just to make sure.

AND, you can run both if you like, a Capacitor and a battery, that way if a battery craps out, you can still get home on the cap :wink2:

Hugh
Hey Hugh, I just bought your complete CDI set up and like the idea of running the little battery and the capacitor. Electric wiring isn't my strong suit. What would the wire diagram look like with both cap and bat?
 
You wire the battery and the cap in parallel, that's way it is in my britt bikes, that's a "get you home" feature. If the battery gets run down or craps out ,you can start and run it on the cap.
 
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