Bike won't start after tip over and running out of gas

[5twins]

Yes, that drawing is rather confusing. Both relays and all the switches are drawn in their "at rest" positions. The sidestand relay is an "NC" type (normally closed). It needs one of it's two "triggers" to open it and unground the TCI box. Having the sidestand up is one of them. That closes the sidestand switch, establishes the ground, and feeds it to the sidestand relay. It's other "trigger" is the neutral light. So, the bike needs to either be in neutral or have the sidestand up to open the relay and unground the TCI box.

 

[Jan_P]

Yes that was what I Wondered .If everything is OK the side stand relay closed
Something shorting to ground Sidestand or Neutral switch grounding -- Kills TCI
opens

So if sidestand down . Grounding ---or In gear then grounding ( or am I wrong here neutral should be fine starting )
The ground path(s) closed and Side stand relay closed

 

[Jim]

Yes, that drawing is rather confusing. Both relays and all the switches are drawn in their "at rest" positions. The sidestand relay is an "NC" type (normally closed). It needs one of it's two "triggers" to open it and unground the TCI box. Having the sidestand up is one of them. That closes the sidestand relay, establishes the ground, and feeds it to the sidestand relay. It's other "trigger" is the neutral light. So, the bike needs to either be in neutral or have the sidestand up to open the relay and unground the TCI box.

Yeah that makes sense. I was looking at the stand switch as opening when you retracted it. It closes when you retract it.
Previous comment edited so as not to confuse....

 

[Jan_P]

Ignition Fuse .. ??? loose ??

 

[xjwmx]

It would kinda defeat the whole purpose if the starter was allowed to roll the bike off the sidestand..........

Yes, it should propel off the side stand. I think the danger being addressed was pulling out with the kickstand down. Other switches keep it from starting not in neutral or clutch not pulled. If any of those switches are still there If the side stand is closed the relay is open and the base of the TCI output transistor isn't grounded.

Another wild possibility, once I had a plug wire work out of the coil. I suppose it could happen from falling over if it was just hanging. Since then I wrap tape around a couple inches of the wire and up over the terminal cap a couple of turns.

Soon we may learn whether it's spark or fuel...

 

[xjwmx]

It turns off when you put the kickstand down. How cool is that. Wouldn't be hard to make it turn on when you sit down...

 

[MarieKaramazov]

Well well well, it looks like the old man has lost his spark. Didn't get a spark on either side. Should I try with the last set of plugs had in in case the plugs are bad? They look fine and new. So no spark...recommendations of where to start next? Coil wiring? Bad HT cables? Check battery terminals? I was scanning this article just now.
As for the sidestand cutout circuit, it sounds like this switch is the same thing as the starter cutout switch. When I had to swap the perch, the new one had no connection point for it, so when I had someone adjust my valves and cam chain, I had them delete or disable that (I can't recall which he did). And it seems it was done correctly seeing that since then, I have pulled away with my stand down several times

 

[Jim]

So no spark...recommendations of where to start next?

Ignition has it's own fuse. Replace that first.

 

[Wingedwheel]

If no spark I would check and make sure no connections came loose. I know you said it started and ran but at high revs. Moving the bike on and off the stands, moving handlebars, pulling on plug wires ect. Check your fuse and connectors. Do you have a meter or even a test light would work.

 

[MarieKaramazov]

Ignition has it's own fuse. Replace that first.

So this is what we're looking at:

Also, I feel silly asking this but I'm looking for a 10A 12V fuse right? Any kind of make or descriptor that will help me find it? When I enter basics online I get all sorts of different looking ones that are not for my bike, or just the whole fuse box; and didn't see any on any of the specific XS sites except for a whole wiring set. Didn't see any specs in my manual. Grab a 20A fuse for the main while I'm at it? Is there a way to tell by looking at these if they're blown or not?
And I'm hoping the replacement of the fuses is just pulling the old one out and sticking the new one back in?

 

[gggGary]

any 10 amp glass fuse will do
usually you get a box of about 5 fuses, auto and electronics stores have them.

That fuse wiring has seen better days. It's been redone once, and is due to be upgraded again. Most of us change to the more modern type push in fuses.
Something like this.

 

[xjwmx]

Check them with a meter and if they're open they're bad. Usually you can see the wire in the tube broken if they're bad. The wires running to the one labeled Main have gotten hot enough to melt the insulation. Crimp all the wire connections with pliers or crimping tool while you have them out.

 

[Jan_P]

Yes the main fuse can be open
Another way to check can be to measure Voltage .One probe to ground and the other both sides of the fuse --power on
If open there is Voltage on one side and nothing on the other.

 

[YamadudeXS650C]

So this is what we're looking at:

Also, I feel silly asking this but I'm looking for a 10A 12V fuse right? Any kind of make or descriptor that will help me find it? When I enter basics online I get all sorts of different looking ones that are not for my bike, or just the whole fuse box; and didn't see any on any of the specific XS sites except for a whole wiring set. Didn't see any specs in my manual. Grab a 20A fuse for the main while I'm at it? Is there a way to tell by looking at these if they're blown or not?
And I'm hoping the replacement of the fuses is just pulling the old one out and sticking the new one back in?

Let's be straight with one another: as Gary suggested, your fusebox is a mess.
I would not proceed further until I replaced the box completely.

Here is one simple approach to replacement: snip all the fuse wires to appropriate lengths (progressively longer as you go so that they fall together nicely), labelling each as you go. Connect modern fuses of the correct amperage with simple female .25 wire crimp connectors (Walmart has the connectors and fuses in the auto department) like I did here:

....and then stuff them all into a section of bicycle inner tube for insulation:

 

[MarieKaramazov]

It's been quite a pause. Here's the short version for now: due to my lack of time and work space, I was given the holiday gift of having the bike taken to a guy who works on Yamahas (most often motocross race bikes). According to him, so far it turns out that the pick up coil (4M4-81670-10-00) is testing bad. He's awaiting dealer searches to turn something up but nothing yet; and I don't see anything on partzilla or eBay or OEM... any ideas or recommendations of where to get this part?
Thanks everyone!

 

[xjwmx]

^Yes -- you can buy a stator on ebay that has the pickup still attached. I've gotten a couple that way.

Here's one for example: www.ebay.com/itm/275442821479

 

[jetmechmarty]

It's been quite a pause. Here's the short version for now: due to my lack of time and work space, I was given the holiday gift of having the bike taken to a guy who works on Yamahas (most often motocross race bikes). According to him, so far it turns out that the pick up coil (4M4-81670-10-00) is testing bad. He's awaiting dealer searches to turn something up but nothing yet; and I don't see anything on partzilla or eBay or OEM... any ideas or recommendations of where to get this part?
Thanks everyone!

eBay for starters. Put a WANTED post on this forum. The pickup coil has not been available for many years. That doesn’t mean you can’t get one.

 

[5twins]

That part is N.L.A. (no longer available) so your only option is a used one, maybe from eBay. But, many times the reason they test bad is because one of the wires has broken in the sleeve somewhere. You might have your guy test the wires for continuity between their connection point on the pick-up and their plug. If you're lucky, this could save you the cost of buying another.

 

[MarieKaramazov]

The pickup coil has not been available for many years.

That's what they said

That doesn’t mean you can’t get one.

That's what I said

 

[MarieKaramazov]

Okay. Finally saw a pickup coil that fits my bike and isn't $300. The seller says its unused and OEM, and it looks like it. Here it is.
I just want to check with you guys real quick if there's any reason to worry that the pickup coil would break down on its own over time? Ie. should I have him test it and is that possible without it being connected to a bike? (Any demos I saw online had the coil testing done on the bike)