Blowing Flasher Relay

I believe I found the issue. Bulb inside the blinker was some how stuck down in the future and was grounding against the side of the blinker housing. Must have hit a bump or two just right :shrug: Took the bulb out, put it back in correctly, and everything works like it should. Have to start it up this weekend and double check voltage at the battery but I'm pretty confident that was the issue.

Thoughts on using a smaller fuse, say 5A or 7.5A instead of a 10A, so as to hopefully blow the fuse rather than the flasher relay in the future?

Appreciate all the help everyone! Hearing that it sounded like a shorting issue got me on the right path!
That's why most of us are here.
Fuse wise, 2x 21w at 15volts=3amps.
If the fuse feeds only 2 blinks and a flasher heater and dash light, 5amps would do in a perfect world except surge current is present that doubles this.
 
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Lets wait .. The purpose of a regulator .or Shock valves in Hydraulics is to regulate
It is supposed to keep it down just to prevent damage to other system parts
In hydraulics they are not always able to reduce pressure at times with spectacular pieces of metal flying
around.

But I have never heard of it in electronics They are quick and as far as I know brings it down not allowing it up
to dangerous levels
But there is a first for everything I may be wrong here .but it is dangerous for other parts in the wiring
and system.
If a short in the flasher and the System voltage goes up Something else can fry Boyer fex don't like over voltage
Exactly what the regulator and fuses should prevent

A short on the downside of the relay Sure . Higher current smoke and burnt relay it can take take power from the battery shorting that to ground
fireworks if there is no fuse
But the regulator is sensing the upside producing side. I am surprised if it cannot keep it down .But it may be so
have not heard about it Depending on circuit

Which makes a voltmeter on the bike a good thing or keep a watch
 
Lets wait .. The purpose of a regulator .or Shock valves in Hydraulics is to regulate
It is supposed to keep it down just to prevent damage to other system parts
In hydraulics they are not always able to reduce pressure at times with spectacular pieces of metal flying
around.

But I have never heard of it in electronics They are quick and as far as I know brings it down not allowing it up
to dangerous levels
But there is a first for everything I may be wrong here .but it is dangerous for other parts in the wiring
and system.
If a short in the flasher and the System voltage goes up Something else can fry Boyer fex don't like over voltage
Exactly what the regulator and fuses should prevent

A short on the downside of the relay Sure . Higher current smoke and burnt relay it can take take power from the battery shorting that to ground
fireworks if there is no fuse
But the regulator is sensing the upside producing side. I am surprised if it cannot keep it down .But it may be so
have not heard about it Depending on circuit

Which makes a voltmeter on the bike a good thing or keep a watch
Great! I was wondering how that was all calculated, now I know. Will try a 5amp then :thumbsup:
Read my post-use 10 amp fuse
 
Lets wait .. The purpose of a regulator .or Shock valves in Hydraulics is to regulate
It is supposed to keep it down just to prevent damage to other system parts
In hydraulics they are not always able to reduce pressure at times with spectacular pieces of metal flying
around.

But I have never heard of it in electronics They are quick and as far as I know brings it down not allowing it up
to dangerous levels
But there is a first for everything I may be wrong here .but it is dangerous for other parts in the wiring
and system.
If a short in the flasher and the System voltage goes up Something else can fry Boyer fex don't like over voltage
Exactly what the regulator and fuses should prevent

A short on the downside of the relay Sure . Higher current smoke and burnt relay it can take take power from the battery shorting that to ground
fireworks if there is no fuse
But the regulator is sensing the upside producing side. I am surprised if it cannot keep it down .But it may be so
have not heard about it Depending on circuit

Which makes a voltmeter on the bike a good thing or keep a watch
o_O
 
There should not exist 15 V in a 12 V system and a 14.4 Regulator
Bat. is 12.6V nominal on lead-acid flooded. 6 cells at 2.1 volts apiece.
Bat. needs this plus whatever other loads are involved. Plus recovery charging from electric load from the starter, if equipped.

Nominal is 14.5-14.8 volts. On averaged over 10 minutes+
State of charge(SOC) determines voltage.

The majority of these regulators are controlled by current. Good bench supplies control both current and voltage. These auto/cycle regulators are not them.

When current demand goes down, voltage spikes, and a crow-bar zener diode controls the waste to ground when over 15 volts.
 
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Read my post-use 10 amp fuse
I was using a 10amp and the flasher relay was blowing before the fuse so I would like to try and avoid that if possible. Seems the flasher relay is the weakest link but shouldn't the fuse be so it gets "damaged" before anything else does? What is surge current?
 
I was using a 10amp and the flasher relay was blowing before the fuse so I would like to try and avoid that if possible. Seems the flasher relay is the weakest link but shouldn't the fuse be so it gets "damaged" before anything else does? What is surge current?
Fixed short to ground, should NOT have to worry.
Try 5A, may work depending how slo the fuse blows. Nothing to lose.

Surge current is when turning on blinkers/lights, the cold filament takes 2x the current to heat it up. Only for about .01 seconds though.
Yamaha did not count on dead short to ground as normal, so, little things may fry, not the wires.
Like the heater in the flasher or the points in the flasher.
 
Dont want to be anti and question Mr Automans Knowledge Thats not what I am doing here

After rewiring the bike, the volt meter I am running off of the ignition switch shows about 15 volts when I am riding

I read that as 15 V over time --on the road ... steady state condition -- not a pulse now and then ,If this is a stock regulator there is adjusting possibilities
And if it is an electronic regulator there can be Voltage drop en route to it making it adjust wrong
Apologize if it has been mentioned
 
I was using a 10amp and the flasher relay was blowing before the fuse so I would like to try and avoid that if possible. Seems the flasher relay is the weakest link but shouldn't the fuse be so it gets "damaged" before anything else does? What is surge current?
Checking on you winker/blinkers

All good?
 
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