CASTRATION OF THE BRATS ABS!
Like alot of us life gets in the way of pleasure; with work, wife, and chores taking precedent over bike time.
I started the removal of the ABS system about three weeks ago, but could only find short time slots to get to the workshop and complete the job. My shop is three miles from my home so I have to plan things in advance; not just a quick drop into the garage next door so to speak.
After removing the seat, bodywork and fuel tank (simple) I disconected the battery.
The associated ABS pipework was removed, leaving the 'normal' brake lines in place.
Various Torx bolts (difficult access) were removed, and the ECU diconected, to allow the ABS pump and attached ECU to be lifted from its cradle.
ABS unit moved to the bench for removal of the ECU.
The pump alone weight is 4.4Kg, with pipes that must be around 5.0Kg. This weight is carried quite high up on the bike.
Next job was to remove the ECU from the pump which is held on with..........
Four 5 point security Torx bolts! I have every 6 point Torx driver known to man; but this is a BMW/ECU makers creation.
In the end I carefully drilled out the little blighters.
Disconect the enclosed wires, all are push/pull fittings.
Tidy up the wires and contain the tails inside the ECU box.
Finally seal up the ECU with some RTV and the supplied replacement rear cover from BMW Motorworks UK.
I returned the ECU back to the bike secured with Zip tires on rubber mounts, and reconnected the Bike loom to it.
Then its back to the brake lines. All fairly straighforward to adapt with the supplied links from Motorworks UK.
Front link installed in image above.
Brakes were then bled and retuned a good firm lever and pedal.
Next job was to eliminate the constant warning lights on the dash clocks.
To remove the clocks you have to take the front screen off; plus any Sat-Nav kit you have attached.
This allows better (still shitty) access to the retaining clips that hold the clocks onto three nipples.
The bikes brain is still looking for ABS information not realising its bits have been cut off!
Some YouTubers just tape over the two flashing lights.
Others remove the clocks and open them up to apply black paint over the LED's as seen below
I chose to cut sqaures from black foam sheet and insert them into the ports where the LED's sit.
Replece the cover and refit the clocks for a more factory appearance.
The lights still flash beneath the foam but cannot be seen by the rider.
Reinstall the tank and connect any remaining err... connectors; and refit the fuel lines.
Another visual check over and then a test which threw up a few faults.
1. The rear brake light was now constantly on.
2. Iggy on and press start = Cranking but No Fire.
The rear light issue was traced to the front brake micro switch. I didn't touch the brake levers but it took a full hour to reset the switch, and become operational again. Crank - Nostart seems to have been cured by disconnecting the battery for a system 're-boot' and cleaning all electrical connections carefully. Also the fuel lines can upset the system if they are not fully seated home in thier 'quick-release' connections.
The brat now starts up again and all seems to be working. I will make a test run after fully servicing the bike with fresh oil / plugs / filters etc next weekend..... Weather permitting.
