Boyer Bransden Ignition installation on my XS2

I used Loctite on one side.

If I were to fit another Boyer ignition I'd make my own shaft with threads just at the ends. The Boyer version is a fully threaded piece of stud and this makes it a little floppy in the camshaft when first setting up. On a Special the issue is a little worse because they do not come with bushings fitted in the camshaft since they do not have the manual advance shaft.

This 10.5V issue is probably only noticed when using the electric start on a very cold day or for a prolonged start where the battery is running down. I always used the kicker on my XS so saw no issue.

Just checked the Boyer website and the latest kit now has a 3rd hand provided...:whistle:
 
Paul Sutton said:
I used Loctite on one side.

If I were to fit another Boyer ignition I'd make my own shaft with threads just at the ends. The Boyer version is a fully threaded piece of stud and this makes it a little floppy in the camshaft when first setting up. On a Special the issue is a little worse because they do not come with bushings fitted in the camshaft since they do not have the manual advance shaft.

This 10.5V issue is probably only noticed when using the electric start on a very cold day or for a prolonged start where the battery is running down. I always used the kicker on my XS so saw no issue.

Just checked the Boyer website and the latest kit now has a 3rd hand provided...:whistle:
Click to expand...
:thumbsup:
 
Well, I took the plunge and ordered a Boyer system from TC Bros today.

I"m not so certain about the Nylon Loc nut mod, nor the JB weld of the spacers. As far as the loc nut, Nylon is not very good at handling heat. Keeping a split washer on would be a good idea. I have LOTS of spacers at work, I may see about just taking one that is longer and cutting it down and making a one piece version with the step built in. I think I already have an isolation relay I did not use.
 
Melnic said:
Well, I took the plunge and ordered a Boyer system from TC Bros today.

I"m not so certain about the Nylon Loc nut mod, nor the JB weld of the spacers. As far as the loc nut, Nylon is not very good at handling heat. Keeping a split washer on would be a good idea. I have LOTS of spacers at work, I may see about just taking one that is longer and cutting it down and making a one piece version with the step built in. I think I already have an isolation relay I did not use.
Click to expand...
Company I used to work for did exhaust manifold rebuilds for GE diesel train engines. These are modular, as the engines themselves are modular, so the manifolds are in individual sections for each cylinder (10, 12 and 16 cylinders respectively) connected by stainless steel bellows and marmon flanges, so all nuts were of the split top clinch type semi interference fit just to handle the heat.

94820A232p1-b01-digitall@1x_637146761468972218.png
 
If I were to do another Boyer Bransden ignition kit install, there's two things I'd definitely do.

1 When installing the magnet rotor to the all thread, fit a nut between the magnets. So that there's something to hold whilst tightening the nut on the other end of the all thread. Secure the nut and rotor with Loctite.

2 Rather than a nyloc nut I would use a standard nut, but with a Nord Lock washer under it. Nord Lock is the gold standard for nut locking.

Those two things would improve the BB kit immensely. It's disappointing that BB haven't updated their kit in over 50 years of production. But that's life.

Link - https://www.nord-lock.com/en-gb/nord-lock/original-wedge-locking-washers-product/
 
If I thread the allthread further through the magnet plate will the allthread be long enough on the right side?
Also, I would worry if the nut being there would interfere with the magnets or not. I'll plan to just slot the allthread before inserting it.
I"ll put a bit of a dovetail on the slot and use my gunsmith screw drivers that have a bit of dovetail built into them so it does not slip.

I'll look at that nord lock washer to see how easy it is to get.
 
Pulled the old parts off, Trial fit the magnet plate.
I cut the slot then applied the red loctite last night. Nord-lock washer coming in tomorrow.
So hot in my garage that I think I lost 2-3lbs in water weight.

Notice the white dot on the top magnet is off center? I'll have to see about using the other dot or correct this one.

IMG_5113.jpg
 
Last edited:
Melnic said:
Pulled the old parts off, Trial fit the magnet plate.
I cut the slot then applied the red loctite last night. Nord-lock washer coming in tomorrow.
So hot in my garage that I think I lost 2-3lbs in water weight.

View attachment 352703
Click to expand...
That'll make setting the static timing much easier. On Monday I actually took the nyloc nut off the 8mm all thread on my bike and replaced it with a regular M8 nut and a Nordlock washer. It was much easier to set than it previously was with the nyloc nut. I don't think you'll have any issues, the Nordlock washers are excellent at what they do.
 
Anyone with a later model points bike that did the Boyer conversion have a pic of where they mounted the coil? i Can't put it where the OP's has it on his XS2 cause there is the Turn signal relay there and looking for what others may have done for the Coil and the blue controller module.
 
Melnic said:
Anyone with a later model points bike that did the Boyer conversion have a pic of where they mounted the coil? i Can't put it where the OP's has it on his XS2 cause there is the Turn signal relay there and looking for what others may have done for the Coil and the blue controller module.
Click to expand...
I relocated the flasher unit to the right side coil mount. Then made a bracket from a piece of angle iron to mount the coil.

Pictures in this thread -

Thread 'Musings on Boyer Bransden electronic ignition kit.' https://www.xs650.com/threads/musings-on-boyer-bransden-electronic-ignition-kit.66824/
 
Its been a long time said:
I relocated the flasher unit to the right side coil mount. Then made a bracket from a piece of angle iron to mount the coil.

Pictures in this thread -

Thread 'Musings on Boyer Bransden electronic ignition kit.' https://www.xs650.com/threads/musings-on-boyer-bransden-electronic-ignition-kit.66824/
Click to expand...
that worked. I have coil pack on left side and I can take piece of aluminum, bend it and mount turn signal relay to other side.
I am also removing my turn signal cancellation unit, darn thing fires off too soon anyway and I have other bikes I have to manual cancel anyway.

Getting closer, just need more time (and people not taking up my time!)

Mounting the blue module next, was putting it under the coil mounting plate where it fit real nice till I read people want it getting lots of air to stay cool.
 
so, riddle me this, The spark will happen on both cylinders at the same time, Giving an extra spark on the exhaust stroke of one cylinder at the same time as the compression of the other. so I only need to look at the timing light of one side and I"m set for both.
 
Melnic said:
so, riddle me this, The spark will happen on both cylinders at the same time, Giving an extra spark on the exhaust stroke of one cylinder at the same time as the compression of the other. so I only need to look at the timing light of one side and I"m set for both.
Click to expand...

Not a big job once you use the strobe light Check both sides ..So there is not some problem in caps coil connection or so
But the timing should be OK
 

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