Boyer Bransden Ignition installation on my XS2

I'll add in; relatively retarded modern timing standards have a lot to do with the EPA. NOx forms at high compression, pressure; a quick simple "fix" is retard the timing so peak combustion occurs further ATDC, the cost was fuel effiecency. Back in my Geo Metro days the later cars would gain near 10 MPG if the distributor advance was jimmied past the stop and set to the "older" timing settings.
 
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you's guys made me find this.
metro 006.jpg

Allison loved this 5 speed 3 cyl. AKA the Roller Skate. Came from Jim's neighborhood, flew down, drove it home cuz the front unibody suspension stubs rotted off the wisco cars.
 
Those were fun little cars. I dated an ER nurse who had one in the early '90s. She drove it slowly under the back of a semi trailer in bumper to bumper traffic on the way home from a night shift. She was fine, and the truck driver didn't even know she was there. Good thing he didn't back up! That hood forever had a wedge carved into it...
 
I had asked @Jim to help me figure out the approximate settings and here was his response to me.

40° is full advance.
The drain slot in the cover is the best guide. The red line is 40°. The green line is 35°
So if you set it just right of the center of the drain slot, you'd be pretty damn close. Keep in mind, plus or minus 2° will be good enough.
View attachment 200794

A slight correction. Bobs timing mark is off slightly. He found that when he indexed the rotor when he built the motor. So disregard the "just right of the center...."
That was to compensate for Bobs rotor. 35° is the right side of the drain slot.
 
I am finally going to install my Boyer system this weekend. A question about the suppressed spark plugs vs the suppressed NGK caps with the kit. I have been using the NGK BP7ES plugs and plan to use the Boyer supplied caps. I understand that I can carry on using the spark plugs I have. This is correct?
Thanks and not meaning to hijack the thread.
 
I have been using the NGK BP7ES plugs and plan to use the Boyer supplied caps. I understand that I can carry on using the spark plugs I have. This is correct?
Not too sure what you mean by suppressed spark plugs? NGK BP7ES plugs will be absolutely fine with suppressed ie resistor plugs caps. You need 5kΩ resistance in the circuit and can use either BPR7ES with non-resistor caps or the non-resistor plugs with suppressed plug caps.

I learned this the hard way . . .
 
There has been discussion in the past suggesting NGK may be ditching the BP7ES non-resister sparkplugs. This is true as stated on the NGK website:

https://www.ngk.com/ngk-1034-bp7es-nickel-spark-plug

Their suggestion is to use the BPR7ES (Resistor Plug) in its place. A search on Ebay shows the BP7ES to still be widely available, but at sometime we may be forced to replace our Resistor Caps with a Non-Resistor version and buy NGK BPR7ES resistor plugs instead.
 
I am finally going to install my Boyer system this weekend. A question about the suppressed spark plugs vs the suppressed NGK caps with the kit. I have been using the NGK BP7ES plugs and plan to use the Boyer supplied caps. I understand that I can carry on using the spark plugs I have. This is correct?
Thanks and not meaning to hijack the thread.

Edit:
Yes you can run the caps supplied with your Boyer ignition, (they are resistor caps) with the plugs you referenced , which are non resistor. Either the plugs or the caps need to have resistors so it will not interfere with the ignition module. What I have done on both of my 650’s is switch to the readily available and inexpensive Autolite AP63 Platinum plugs ( which are resistor ) and NGK non resistor caps , pictured here.
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Those nice red NGK spark plug caps that come with the Boyer are NOT resistor caps. Likewise your NGK BP7ES are not resistor plugs. If you do not have resistors in one or the other they will interfere with the proper operation of the ignition unit. So as Raymond and Paul suggested, you could switch to the NGK resistor plugs they mentioned and then use the nice red plug caps that came with the Boyer. Or what I have done on both of my 650’s is switch to the readily available and inexpensive Autolite AP63 Platinum plugs ( which are resistor ) and NGK non resistor caps , pictured here.
View attachment 207871
Bob you might want to double check that. I have a spare Boyer system and it has 5k caps. They even say 5k on them.
I've been running the red caps with non-resistor plugs for several years on my XS2.
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Besides the red caps look cooler on a XS2, they sorta match the faded paint.
Black gaskets and red caps life doesn't get any better. ;)
 
Bob you might want to double check that. I have a spare Boyer system and it has 5k caps. They even say 5k on them.

Well hell Greg! How did I mess that up? I had to run out to the garage to go check. You’re so right, I was completely wrong, I will go back and edit my post. I had a brain fart, I did not use these caps because I intended to run the AP63 resistor plugs. Sorry for the mix up.
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Mailman, with respect to your connection to provide power from the relay to the Boyer blue box and also the positive side of the Boyer coil, I am presuming you split off this wire to each of these locations. Is this correct? Also, a big rookie question here: the grey and orange wires of the original wiring harness which previously connected to the points, coils, condensers, are now all redundant and are just loose and unused, correct? Thank you.
 
Mailman, with respect to your connection to provide power from the relay to the Boyer blue box and also the positive side of the Boyer coil, I am presuming you split off this wire to each of these locations. Is this correct? Also, a big rookie question here: the grey and orange wires of the original wiring harness which previously connected to the points, coils, condensers, are now all redundant and are just loose and unused, correct? Thank you.

GI’ve me a little bit and I’ll try and draw something up . :thumbsup:
 
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