Boyer Bransden ignition timing setting

Now that I'm home from a stressful day I can't imagine why I ever cared whether people believe in magic numbers or not. Nobody is interested in what I'm saying so I'm just wasting space.
Not quite sure what the fuss is with the magic number the instructions clearly say rev the engine until the timing stops advancing, this is where to set the timing.
Hey now! Don't lump me into this craziness. He's the one trying to outsmart boyer. I'm the guy telling him NOT to go down a crazy dyno testing road. I don't know how I could be more clear about that. I'm saying over and over again there IS NO PERFECT TIMING so there's no point asking for magic numbers. If he really did this and tweaked the timing at every RPM for max power in a controlled dyno room his bike would self destruct as soon as he took it outside into the real world where temperature and fuel quality change every day. The boyer isn't any more magically "right" for every bike, gas, throttle position and environment than the xs box or mechanical thing is. They're all just compromises and HOPEFULLY ones made towards the side of safety because running a slow old bike on the ragged edge of detonation in a quest to get 46 horses instead of 43 is ridiculous.

Does it make you feel better if I add a link to the instructions instead of telling him to stop worrying about making it perfect? Then here you go but I assume he already has them:

Those are instructions for the Micro Digital System. I have the Micro Power Ignition system. It's instructions can be found here

I get the weight and horsepower from this link
Wikipedia states it's weight at 450
Correct me if you know otherwise.
On the Boyer Bransden Micro Power Ignition you CANNOT adjust at what rpm full advance occurs. The ignition module controls that. You CAN adjust at what degrees BTDC full advance occurs at.

Let me put it this way and you should be able to come to an understanding of the system. Full advance can be set at various RPM's. Using a digital tachometer which works by counting firing off of a spark plug wire I could run the engine at precisely 3000 RPM then move the stator plate so that the marking on the rotor just comes up to align with the 40 degree BTDC mark on the stator. In fact it won't move past it. I could also run the engine at precisely 4000 RPM and move the stator plate so the marking on the rotor just comes up to align with the 40 degree BTDC mark on the stator. And of course I am using a strobe light to view this
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Gee, I'm glad you explained all that; I've only been installing Boyer ignitions since 1994. As far as timing drill goes, the MP and the MD are the same.
Over-complicating this dood....

Set motor to full advance mark.

Align red dot on the magnetic trigger with the hole on the stator plate marked "TIMING"

Kick it a few times to try and fire it off. I have found that the best way to do this is to keep making incremental adjustments until the bike starts easy and idles fine. Trying to adjust the stator plate while it's running is difficult, most times you'll adjust too far out of range and the bike will die.

Once it's idling nicely, take the strobe, point it at your timing marks, hit the throttle, and watch the advance rise, then stop when it hits full advance, somewhere between 3000-4K. The RPM isn't what's terribly important, it's making sure the strobe and the timing marks are aligning to full advance.

This is really helpful:

99% of the dudes replacing their new boyers with pamcos didn't install or set them up correctly.
The answers in there somewhere...... Blackbetty has the nod for me, thanks ....