Braided lines on 650b

[Dom]

My woeful front brake is weeping from the ancient rubber hoses so I'm planning a new setup but keeping the original master cylinder and the brake switch so I will require two lines.

I'd like to route the lower line straight to the caliper doing away with my rather bent rigid metal line. I've seen people using banjos but wonder why they've not used male swivel fittings as in my photo? Is there any reason these wont work?

Just a last quick question regarding banjo size and thread pitch, 10mm with 1mm pitch? And will standard banjos and 10mm male swivel fitting fit as I've read about concave/convex and xs's having different banjos.

 

[arcticXS]

If your calipers mount in front of the fork sliders, then I think you should keep the steel tubing section. If using a braided hose all the way to the caliper(s), you may experience clearance issues with fork/ front fender. At least I had that problem on my RD350, which has the same caliper.
I believe mikesxs have reproduction steel brake lines.

 

[Dom]

If your calipers mount in front of the fork sliders, then I think you should keep the steel tubing section. If using a braided hose all the way to the caliper(s), you may experience clearance issues with fork/ front fender. At least I had that problem on my RD350, which has the same caliper.
I believe mikesxs have reproduction steel brake lines.

Don't you think I'd be able to pass it through the gap or loosen off the mudguard to gain enough space?

I'm not opposed to keeping it however.

 

[5twins]

I think the thread you need is M10 x 1.25. You'd better check that.

https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs65...?fits-motorcycle=Yamaha/TX650/all-models/1974

Even though these braided hoses are smaller in diameter than the rubber ones, they're still larger than that steel brake line. I think it will be a tight fit, if it fits at all.

 

[arcticXS]

I think the caliper thread is M10x1.0

https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-solid-steel-brake-line.html

 

[Dom]

Thanks folks! So banjos are just normal spec then? I could have sworn I'd read they were different

 

[Dom]

I think the thread you need is M10 x 1.25. You'd better check that.

https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs65...?fits-motorcycle=Yamaha/TX650/all-models/1974

Even though these braided hoses are smaller in diameter than the rubber ones, they're still larger than that steel brake line. I think it will be a tight fit, if it fits at all.

The fitting won't fit through but I believe the hose will, I'll just need to detatch the mudguard to install

 

[willis]

I did a replacement on my 75. You can read about my adventures here.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/75-front-brake-refurbish.54088/

I tried to keep a stock appearance and went with two lines. I kept my steel pipe though. Read through to the end as I has several changes along the way.

 

[Dom]

I did a replacement on my 75. You can read about my adventures here.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/75-front-brake-refurbish.54088/

I tried to keep a stock appearance and went with two lines. I kept my steel pipe though. Read through to the end as I has several changes along the way.

Thanks Willis, I've read your brake line build which helped give me the idea. Do you think my idea will work? Can you confirm male swivel bolt sizes on the hard lines? As 5twis said the banjos are m10 x 1.5mm

 

[Dom]

In the UK BRT Motorsport make up brake lines at great prices

 

[arcticXS]

Thanks Willis, I've read your brake line build which helped give me the idea. Do you think my idea will work? Can you confirm male swivel bolt sizes on the hard lines? As 5twis said the banjos are m10 x 1.5mm

I seriously doubt any brake fittings are M10X1.50!
I am pretty sure the early calipers are M10X1.00. Also, there is a cone at the bottom of the bore. It is there to provide a seal against the stock hard line (steel tubing).
I see no real benefits from going all the way with hose, but several downsides.

 

[toglhot]

I've removed the steel lines and have plain rubber hoses with banjo fittings on the end of each hose. The calliper thread is M10 x 1 and the upper thread on the line block is also M10 x 1. Master cylinder thread and lower line block thread are both M10 x 1.25. I sourced stainless banjo bolts of both threads on ebay quite cheaply.
There isn't sufficient space to mount the banjo straight to the calliper with a single copper washer, but with two washers it fits OK. if using a banjo on the calliper the hose won't be in line with the tunnel on the mudguard stay. If using the standard line block the banjos on the lower hose need to be at right angles to each other. I machined up another line block to overcome that problem. A single hose from master cylinder to calliper would work with a banjo on one end of the hose for attaching to the master cylinder and a straight threaded fitting with M10 x 1 thread attached to the calliper.
In Oz at least, there are standards that must be adhered to, I assume similar in your country, so find out what the standards are from your transport dept

 

[Raymond]

My bike has an RD250 master cylinder with a smaller piston diameter for better brake feel. I just went with a single braided line, no junction at the lower yoke, banjo at each end, four copper washers, no clearance issues. The banjo at the caliper is slightly angled. The line is passed behind the trim piece in front of the lower yoke. HEL brake line and banjos, £30.

Nice and easy, all standard fittings, no probs.

 

[Dom]

I seriously doubt any brake fittings are M10X1.50!
I am pretty sure the early calipers are M10X1.00. Also, there is a cone at the bottom of the bore. It is there to provide a seal against the stock hard line (steel tubing).
I see no real benefits from going all the way with hose, but several downsides.

Yeah my mistake, I meant 1.25mm

 

[Dom]

The clearance of a banjo at the caliper is why I thought a straight male swivel would be best

 

[arcticXS]

The clearance of a banjo at the caliper is why I thought a straight male swivel would be best

An angled banjo (15 or 30 deg) may work, depending on copper ring thickness and hose/ fitting diameter.
But I still think a new hard line, combined with a braided hose would work and look better.
Also, the swivel fittings in your pics do not look like they will fit. As said earlier, there is a cone at the bottom of the caliper bore. Which requires a flared pipe end or equivalent female tapered sealing surface.

 

[Dom]

Ah right, well if the 10mm males fittings won't work then that makes my mind up. Are the other female fittings OK to take male type I have suggested?

 

[arcticXS]

Ah right, well if the 10mm males fittings won't work then that makes my mind up. Are the other female fittings OK to take male type I have suggested?

I suggest you contact Venhill:
https://www.venhill.co.uk/

 

[Dom]

I saw sense and kept the rigid line to the caliper, I quite like the idea of retaining it for originality actually. However the one behind the headlight I have removed and rub a hose straight from the MC, partly because with lower bars there wasn't much room to run a flexi to the hard line. Turned out well and I stripped the MC and cleaned it all before refilling and bleeding the system.

 

[5twins]

Yes, but that means you lost your brake light switch, right?