Brake disc lock washers

Dom

XS650 Junkie
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Are the old style bend over lock washers really needed on the brake discs and rear sprocket or can threadlock be used?

Also the 33 tooth rear sprocket on my 75 isn't noticeably worn but is corroded, can I get away with just replacing it without a new front and chain?
 
Answers to both are personal choice. I think I would trust thread-lock and it's going to be better than old re-used locking tabs. You should check the disc fasteners when you do a full service anyway. BTW, I use a service check list when I do a service - it's my own list based on the service items in the manual.

If you're happy with the chain & sprockets - you will have tried lifting the chain off the sprocket at the 3 o'clock position? - and it's just the corrosion then can't you clean it off? Maybe remove the wheel to get at it better and have a go with oil or rust remover and steel wool?

When they need replacement, always best to replace chain & sprockets as a set.

Just my tuppence worth.
 
I just use Loctite 243 or similar medium strength threadlocking compound. Newer motorcycles often use socket head cap screws, where locking tabs won't work anyway. So Loctite 243 and 20 Nm of torque (for M8) is all that is required.
I'd say that the only reason for using lock tabs on disc and sprocket bolts is originality. Loctite and correct torque is sufficient.
 
Paranoid me uses both. I‘ve even used a dab of paint on the rear fasteners that show if there has been any rotation. Picture from my old water Buffalo. New locking tabs were purchased as these were really beat up.


F9A1D6C5-4827-4776-904D-D6AC98515A38.jpeg
 
Socket head cap screws with a stainless internal lock washer, Loctite, and stainless safety wire.:thumbsup:
View attachment 238871

Did more than my fair share of that safety wiring in the span of my Air Force career.

I swear the T-33 (Korean war vintage jet) and F-4 Phantoms were held together by safety wire!! 😄
 
Strictly speaking Brakes is a Safety item ..
I would look into keep it stock .
There is a lot of water spray there and I suppose there is a prescribed torque on the bolts

If it it is those
https://www.xs650shop.de/en/brakes/1050/brake-disc-lock-washer-set

The factory torque is with those included .perhaps there is mandatory oiling of the bolts
With loctite and no Washers or whatnot the clamping force has a slight risk being wrong.

Loctite is good but what if it is not in this case ? Material can affect.

Most likely it will work but I would make my own set Since I have been working with sheet Metal. .If I don't have the old ones -- or pay 8 Euro

Not losing sleep on this
If you need a MOT Approval there can be problems if the inspector spots a Modification. On a safety item like the Brakes
If it is an import it can be mandatory.. Inspection.
Chuck you out
May even have to walk home..
 
Are the old style bend over lock washers really needed on the brake discs and rear sprocket or can threadlock be used?

Also the 33 tooth rear sprocket on my 75 isn't noticeably worn but is corroded, can I get away with just replacing it without a new front and chain?
Loctite works for me.
I always change chain and sprockets as a complete set.
Its a personal decision; however, from experience parts wear quicker when you mix old with new.

33T works great with 17T front (18” rear).
 
I've been using anti-seized stainless buttonheads with wave lock washers torqued to 12 ft/lbs for several years now on my discs. I check them regularly and have never found any loose .....

NewWheelMounted6.jpg


I agree with Gary on the sprocket bolts though, I continue to use those lock tabs on them. I also liberally anti-seize them. These bolts have a fine thread and the holes open into the brake drum on drum brake models. They are exposed to lots of dirt, brake dust, and water. I have found some seized and they're a bitch to get out. Some I couldn't.
 
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