Brake hose/tank screws

Screws are 4 X 8mm... 0.7mm thread pitch.
They ain't changed since I answered that question in your other thread about 3 hrs ago. :cautious:
 
Jim you’ll have to excuse me I’m old and forgetful. An example is I wrote a request for handlebars on a Facebook XS page Forgot all about it and order some from Mike’s now a guy respond it said he has an original pair with decent chrome is what I’d really like to have. So Jim I don’t even know where I was 3 hours ago.
 
Yes, you can run a single brake line on a 72. Use a banjo bolt pressure switch at the Master cylinder.
Any supplier you know of on the Internet. I know I need a hose I need one banjo bolt and then I need like a fitting that goes into the caliper. I guess you would call it a double male fitting. One definitive caliper and the other one to take the other into the hose.
 
I haven't finished my brake hose yet, but I got the parts from ANPlumbing.com. I ordered:

30 Deg. Adjustable Banjo PTFE Hose End. Long. Steel.600503ERL. This is used at the master cylinder which I replaced with a Honda 1/2" for lower lever effort and includes the brake switch.



Straight Speed-Seal PTFE Hose End to Inverted Flare Female. Steel.640603ERL. This is for the connection at the short steel line coming out of the caliper.





This is what it looks like in the original hose support which works perfectly.



If you are going to make the connection at the caliper you will need the MALE inverted flare fitting. The reason I did it this way is I don't have to make a sharp turn with the somewhat stiff hose into the clearance groove in the fender, the hose support works perfectly with the female fitting and I like the look of the original steel tube.

Speed-Flex PTFE Hose with Smoke PVC Coating (0.040" Wall) Steel, or Stainless.6000032ERL The way I have the hose routed three feet is plenty. I used the smoke coating because the clear was too shiny and the black would look like a cable so smoke strikes a balance and, I think looks good.

If you've never made your own hose before, the website has a good video on how to do it, it's pretty straightforward. I use a cut-off wheel in a die grinder to cut the hose per their instructions.

Hope this helps.
 
I haven't finished my brake hose yet, but I got the parts from ANPlumbing.com. I ordered:

30 Deg. Adjustable Banjo PTFE Hose End. Long. Steel.600503ERL. This is used at the master cylinder which I replaced with a Honda 1/2" for lower lever effort and includes the brake switch.



Straight Speed-Seal PTFE Hose End to Inverted Flare Female. Steel.640603ERL. This is for the connection at the short steel line coming out of the caliper.





This is what it looks like in the original hose support which works perfectly.



If you are going to make the connection at the caliper you will need the MALE inverted flare fitting. The reason I did it this way is I don't have to make a sharp turn with the somewhat stiff hose into the clearance groove in the fender, the hose support works perfectly with the female fitting and I like the look of the original steel tube.

Speed-Flex PTFE Hose with Smoke PVC Coating (0.040" Wall) Steel, or Stainless.6000032ERL The way I have the hose routed three feet is plenty. I used the smoke coating because the clear was too shiny and the black would look like a cable so smoke strikes a balance and, I think looks good.

If you've never made your own hose before, the website has a good video on how to do it, it's pretty straightforward. I use a cut-off wheel in a die grinder to cut the hose per their instructions.

Hope this helps.

Very impressive
 
I got my caliper apart now the pucks are stuck I’ve sprayed on blaster letting them soak. I’ll assume there not going to fall out so you guys who done this I appreciate your thoughts. Hopefully with success do I put some grease around the outside of the puck for ease of sliding when I put them back in.
 
Mine were SOOOO stuck I had to use a grease gun to get them out and they were toast (deep rust pits). In the past, compressed air was always good enough but not this time. Instead of buying steel replacements I made some from stainless steel just to see how hard 316 stainless is to work with, also because I like to make things on the lathe and the price was right since I already had the stainless. Also, I have a cost-conscious ethos... (yes, I still like that one,)

https://www.xs650.com/threads/74-tx650a-project-–-aka-“the-parts-bike”.59372/post-686300

I used red rubber grease, specifically for use on brake parts, and they slid right in but I'm sure brake fluid would have worked as well since they went in so easy.
 
I got my caliper apart now the pucks are stuck I’ve sprayed on blaster letting them soak. I’ll assume there not going to fall out so you guys who done this I appreciate your thoughts. Hopefully with success do I put some grease around the outside of the puck for ease of sliding when I put them back in.

I wrote about my experience here,

https://www.xs650.com/threads/mailman’s-xs2-a-full-on-restoration.51520/page-27#post-547398

I know a lot of guys are squeamish doing it this way, but I used compressed air. Just be aware those brake pistons can become projectiles. I place the caliper with the open side facing down on an old shop towel or such, place my hand on top and firmly press down on the caliper, shoot air in the brake line inlet and they popped right out.
 
Mine were SOOOO stuck I had to use a grease gun to get them out and they were toast (deep rust pits). In the past, compressed air was always good enough but not this time. Instead of buying steel replacements I made some from stainless steel just to see how hard 316 stainless is to work with, also because I like to make things on the lathe and the price was right since I already had the stainless. Also, I have a cost-conscious ethos... (yes, I still like that one,)

https://www.xs650.com/threads/74-tx650a-project-–-aka-“the-parts-bike”.59372/post-686300

I used red rubber grease, specifically for use on brake parts, and they slid right in but I'm sure brake fluid would have worked as well since they went in so easy.


I was thinking Greece to make them slide easier. Does brake fluid get around the outside of the piston.
 
I wouldn't use regular petroleum grease, only grease intended for brake pistons or brake fluid. I don't think you'll need it though, brake fluid should be enough.

Only if the seals are leaking, good seals/pistons don't let any brake fluid out.
 
I’ll second the caution if using compressed air to force them out. I tried just cupping my hand over it, and when it popped free I had a sore hand for a few days.
 
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