Brake light switch - defective?

Curious why you’re not a fan of the sintered pads?
Well, because some lessons in life stick awhile.
Years ago I rode a 650 Seca . (Same calipers as 77 up XS’s) and worked in a bike shop.
EBC pads were always on hand on the rack in the parts department. Those were in every bike shop? While installing those the lead mechanic there who rode an FJ1200 gave me so much crap about those EBC sintered pads that I eventually took them back out and put in softer pads. Galfer if I remember.The improvement was definite.
He was right. He usually was.
Later on my own FJ1200 I wouldn’t buy EBC either. Never did again.
And if you think about it , how is sintered metal bits beneficial as a braking compound? It’s probably for wear resistance but seems to me like just more heat.
And I’ll never buy NAPA truck pads again either.
Live & Learn 🤔
 
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Yes, it's said sintered pads wear the rotor faster. Personally, I use and like Ferodo Platinum pads.
I knew you used Ferodo but I couldn’t find a part number or source up here. I did have limited internet access where I am now but found a part number and source in Nova Scotia. I’ve sent an inquiry. An Amazon search returned a price over $100 per set (2 sets needed). 😳
 
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I believe the downside is accelerated rotor wear.

Yes, it's said sintered pads wear the rotor faster. Personally, I use and like Ferodo Platinum pads.
I learn something new on here all the time. I suppose they are recommended by the MoCo because they sell them.
 
While talking about brake pads, my Toyota 4Runner has always had an issue of uneven pad material deposits on the rotors. When this happens you get a lot of brake pulsation and vibration through the steering wheel when slowing down (especially when the brakes are hot). When rotors and pads are new it’s not a problem but after 5-10k km, the problem resurfaces. This has happened on two trucks that I’ve owned.

I spoke to a friend who owns a performance car parts business. He said there were several cars out there that suffered the same issue. His remedy was the installation of EBC Yellow Stuff brakes pads. I took his advice and installed the pads and new rotors. Without looking I’m pretty sure I’ve driven over 20,000 km on these pads and never a shake or shimmy. Braking performance is phenomenal and improves as the brakes get hot. They worked so well that I bought a set for the rear too. Now my 5,000 lb truck stops on a dime.

Now the bad news:
1. Cost - close to $400 cdn for front and rear pads
2. Brake dust - quite a bit of dust but occasional cleaning with a good cleaner keeps things looking good
3. Accelerated rotor wear - unfortunately this is the price you pay for the great braking performance I have now. No doubt the dust I’m seeing is a combination of brake pads and metal being ground away from my rotors.

Overall I’m happy with the set up. For the XS I’m looking at options other than EBC.
 
I actually slather on a light coat of antisieze - lasts longer and always has a nice silvery finish on the rotor.
Sad but true; as summer slips away the CB900F is labouring on with a leaky fork seal, even with a strip of towel under the dust cap the brake pads are soaked. It's turn on the lift hasn't happened yet. fortunately the brakes are still good enough for some local rides til it goes under the knife wrench.
 
I really reefed on that brake, prolly 10 hard stops from 60MPH. By the time I got back, the stainless rotor was dark steel blue and brake was firmer and more positive. Glazed from only light use? Dunno.
The Carbone Lorraine pads I have need to get that done every couple of thousand miles, and on every journey they're a cold-hating pad, need warmed up to work properly. Worth it, though. Far, far better than the previous pads I've had.
 
I spent a couple of hours servicing the front brakes today. Checked the rotors and there was no evidence of warpage👍😀. Deglazed the rotor surfaces with emery cloth as best as I could without removing them. I removed the pads and deglazed them too. There was enough material on them so I won’t replace them right away. The left side had some pitting of the surface and I could feel a bit of a ridge so I cleaned up the friction surfaces. I flat filed the ridges off then used the concrete garage floor to deglaze them - sounds goofy but works great! I checked all 8 pistons for free travel and they were fine. Lubed the pads on the contact areas and put it back together. Bled the master cylinder and calipers.

I checked to see if this service had an effect on the brake switch actuation but it didn’t so I ordered a new switch today

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I have used the aluminium banjo bolt switches, like you I was a bit dubious but it held together and sealed with copper washers.
I did sparingly apply some nickel anti seize to the thread having had bad a experience with ali in ali threads.
 
I have used the aluminium banjo bolt switches, like you I was a bit dubious but it held together and sealed with copper washers.
I did sparingly apply some nickel anti seize to the thread having had bad a experience with ali in ali threads.
Thanks, I may apply some antisieze as well - sounds like a good idea.
 
When I replace the switch here (re/re) banjo bolt, do you think I’ll need to bleed the whole system, up to and including both calipers? I can do it but will be a pita.

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I think in your shoes I would first try a reverse bleed by pushing fluid from a syringe through the caliper bleed nipple(s) up into the master cylinder. You might get lucky and not have to fully bleed the system. It's probable you need to remove much of the fluid in the master cylinder to leave room in there for the fluid being pushed in from the syringe. Good luck.
 
I think in your shoes I would first try a reverse bleed by pushing fluid from a syringe through the caliper bleed nipple(s) up into the master cylinder. You might get lucky and not have to fully bleed the system. It's probable you need to remove much of the fluid in the master cylinder to leave room in there for the fluid being pushed in from the syringe. Good luck.
That’s a good idea, thanks.
 
I have used the aluminium banjo bolt switches, like you I was a bit dubious but it held together and sealed with copper washers.
I did sparingly apply some nickel anti seize to the thread having had bad a experience with ali in ali threads.
I just received my new hydraulic light switch. It felt heavy and tested with a magnet, turned out to be steel, not aluminum. Tested it with a magnet. Goes to show you can’t. believe many of the Chinese product descriptions on Amazon,
 
I just received my new hydraulic light switch. It felt heavy and tested with a magnet, turned out to be steel, not aluminum. Tested it with a magnet. Goes to show you can’t. believe many of the Chinese product descriptions on Amazon,
"May vary by up to 3cm from stated sizes."
"May not appear as in photo."
Yep, that's about right.
 
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