Broken valve

I've seen the mitas tyres. And did wonder if they were okay. Servis seem to do something similar.
I must admit that the tyres will probably be too old before they are worn out 😕
I've been told about a couple of bike/ tyre shops locally who may be able to help.
I'm going to decide which tyres I want then start phoning around. I'll see if anyone is interested in fitting tyres I've bought online.
 
I've seen the mitas tyres. And did wonder if they were okay. Servis seem to do something similar.
I must admit that the tyres will probably be too old before they are worn out 😕
I've been told about a couple of bike/ tyre shops locally who may be able to help.
I'm going to decide which tyres I want then start phoning around. I'll see if anyone is interested in fitting tyres I've bought online.
Sensible thing to do. Near me I found nobody wants to know about tubes tyres. I'm guessing thee days nobody under the age of 40 has had a bike with inner tubes!
 
In 2015 my house flooded. Ruined a Bonneville I'd just restored. Never even got to start it. The insurance sent out an inspector. All he could say is "I've no idea about bikes this old. It was made before I was born"!
I think it's generally down to the owner or a friend with these age bikes.
 
I bought the second cheapest tires on line I could find then
And got them fitted locally
Maxxis
I like the rear tyre Not the front That slided once In a roundabout
when wet Dont trust it but I rarely is out in the rain. And can adapt driving then
Soon I need to replace going for the same brand third time
 
Quick update on my build so far;
I had to clean out a very rusty dented tank.

I used electrolysis. Seemed to remove quite a bit of rust. Masked all the holes and got the tank and side panels shot blasted, along with most other bits .
Bashed out the dents.

Filled then primed to stop it rusting on the outside.

Pressure washed the inside to get as much rust and gunge out as poss. Filled with water and a dishwasher tablet. Drained it, pressure washed again and got more rust and gunge out. Filled it with 15l of vinegar and left it three days. Drained it, pressure washed again and got even more rust and gunge out. It finally looks pretty clean inside. Though I will be fitting filters to the petrol pipes.

Lots more sanding filling and priming.

Painted using rattle cans. Flatted of and decals applied. Finished using 2k aerosol clear lacquer which is petrol resistant. Flatted of and polished. I'm pretty pleased with the results.
 

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I ran the Conti Twins for many years on my old BMWs and always liked them. I don't think you can go wrong with them. They're also one of the easiest tires to change yourself as the sidewalls are very flexible. I've found Dunlops to be one of the hardest tires to change yourself. Their sidewalls are very stiff.

I've always changed my own tires. Having multiple bikes, if I had to pay someone to do it, well, it would get quite expensive. I've got a good $100 invested in tire tools and my changer, but seeing as some places are charging as much as $50 to mount a tire today, I've recouped my investment many times over.

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That's another thumbs up for the continental's.
I do do seem to remember struggling and sweating over a tt100 on some bike in the distant past. Only to find I'd nipped the damn inner tube. And having to wrestle the tyre back off. And start all over again.
 
That's another thumbs up for the continental's.
I do do seem to remember struggling and sweating over a tt100 on some bike in the distant past. Only to find I'd nipped the damn inner tube. And having to wrestle the tyre back off. And start all over again.
think we all been there :) by the way nice work on that bike !
 
The UK / Ireland markets are well served by Oponeo, Pneus-online, and Tyreleader.
Just have a look, and you'll find.
Maxxis are my faves for rears and I spend a bit more on the front for an Avon (the supply situation for Avon seems to be sorted out, after their shutdown).
 
Thanks I'll look into that. It does seem that the UK and US tyre supplies are different.
Maybe I should have been more specific and asked UK members for their recommendations.
M&P are doing the conti twins specifically for the XS650. Not too expensive.
It doesn't seem that long ago that a tyre cost around £30.
 
Hi I've been reading so much about CV carbs. I think I'm starting to confuse myself. It doesn't help that I've been tinkering with Amal concentrics for forty odd years.

I've cleaned and rebuilt my unlinked BS38's. The needle clips were both in the fifth notch, I've changed this to the fourth. One float was set at 24mm and one at 30mm. I've changed it to 24mm. The jets and screws had obviously been in and out a few times using unsuitable driver bits. Maybe this is why the head seemed so coked up.

I know it's not recommended on this site but I've replaced needles, jets, screws and springs using a yambits rebuild kit. All the bits seemed to be correct.

After all that rambling on my question is; what do I do with the throttle stop screws and butterflies. Should the butterflies be set closed, using the throttle stop screws. And then left alone? Is all the adjustment carried out on the mixture screws?
 
Hi I've been reading so much about CV carbs. I think I'm starting to confuse myself. It doesn't help that I've been tinkering with Amal concentrics for forty odd years.
Ah, Amal Concentrics. A lot to both love and hate there. Can't get much more basic and easy to tinker with, and they even work pretty well for the most part.
The biggest potential problem with them was people over tightening the flange nuts and warping the slide bore till the slides would stick.
Of course they were direct bolted to machines that transmitted direct heat and shook them like a Waring blender. Makes one wonder they worked as well as they did.
 
Really bad on a commando. Everything seems smooth, but the engine and carbs are shaking away down there. The slides rattling away in the bores.
As you say that tufnol spacer was there for a reason.
I keep thinking about how well they would work on an xs
 
After all that rambling on my question is; what do I do with the throttle stop screws and butterflies. Should the butterflies be set closed, using the throttle stop screws. And then left alone? Is all the adjustment carried out on the mixture screws?

Butterflies synced first at the carbs, then adjust the cables at the throttle, then check at the carbs again.Hopefully you have gauges for this, then the mix screws.
 
Unlinked cables so setting up the butterflies and cables has been a bit fussy. I'm happy they're pretty sorted. I've just got to make sure any adjustments are exactly repeated on the other carb.
Unfortunately I've got the gauges but no barbs.
I'm thinking I'll adjust the new camchain again and check the valve timing.
Then fine tune the carbs
 
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