Gary, I appreciate your recommendation on the Broview LED headlight bulb! I bought a pair from Amazon and installed one, and I'm very happy with it.
You're right, cutting an extra hole in the back of the shell is the thing to do; even if you could find a shell deep enough to accommodate the heat sink, it wouldn't cool very well in that tight space. I cut a rectangular port 3/4" wide and 1-1/2" high in the rear center of the shell and edged it with split vinyl tubing. There was no room in the shell for the 3-way connector that plugs into the 3-way headlight socket, and the connection wouldn't be anywhere close to water resistant if hung outside the shell. Solution: unplug the headlight socket from the harness, cut the 3-way plug off the Broview power box, and install F-crimp connectors on the wires. And yes they're teeny tiny 20 ga. wires, so strip enough wire to double it over, put a couple of layers of shrink tube on the insulation so that the strain relief crimp has something to grab, and use small 3.5 mm. bullets. Then install 3.5 mm. sockets on the harness end. (Yeah, I know, that's backward from Yamaha's configuration; but if a connector does a comealoose, what do you want to have hanging loose--an exposed hot bullet that can ground and blow a fuse for you, or a hot insulated socket?) On the other end of the box, I led the cable from the "bulb" out the port with the heat sink and attached it, and hung the box from the upper fork clamp with zip ties.
Anyway, so far so good--great illumination, and far less demand on the alternator. At idle (1200rpm), the meter shows only a 3/10 volt drop between all lights off and tail light (incandescent) plus headlight low beam on.
You're right, cutting an extra hole in the back of the shell is the thing to do; even if you could find a shell deep enough to accommodate the heat sink, it wouldn't cool very well in that tight space. I cut a rectangular port 3/4" wide and 1-1/2" high in the rear center of the shell and edged it with split vinyl tubing. There was no room in the shell for the 3-way connector that plugs into the 3-way headlight socket, and the connection wouldn't be anywhere close to water resistant if hung outside the shell. Solution: unplug the headlight socket from the harness, cut the 3-way plug off the Broview power box, and install F-crimp connectors on the wires. And yes they're teeny tiny 20 ga. wires, so strip enough wire to double it over, put a couple of layers of shrink tube on the insulation so that the strain relief crimp has something to grab, and use small 3.5 mm. bullets. Then install 3.5 mm. sockets on the harness end. (Yeah, I know, that's backward from Yamaha's configuration; but if a connector does a comealoose, what do you want to have hanging loose--an exposed hot bullet that can ground and blow a fuse for you, or a hot insulated socket?) On the other end of the box, I led the cable from the "bulb" out the port with the heat sink and attached it, and hung the box from the upper fork clamp with zip ties.
Anyway, so far so good--great illumination, and far less demand on the alternator. At idle (1200rpm), the meter shows only a 3/10 volt drop between all lights off and tail light (incandescent) plus headlight low beam on.
