BS34 Float Help

Since I also come from a strong 2 stroke background... I feel your pain. :sneaky:
Yes, the engine has to come out to remove the head.
It's really not that bad to remove as long as you have a strong backed helper. Was a time I could (and have) remove and install the engine by bear hugging it out and back in. Those days are long past.
 
Last edited:
Jim said:
It's really not that bad to remove as long as you have a strong backed helper. Was a time I could (and have) remove and install the engine by bear hugging it out and back in.
Click to expand...
If I have something to set it on, almost even with the frame bottom, I find removal fairly easy. I straddle the bike like I'm going to ride it and pull the engine toward my chest then ease it out the side. I discovered this after I had done it by stripping the bike and laying it on its side. Going back in is easy too. I use my 27 year old neighbor. It goes right in!
 
Jim said:
Since I also come from a strong 2 stroke background... I feel your pain. :sneaky:
Yes, the engine has to come out to remover the head.
It's really not that bad to remove as long as you have a strong backed helper. Was a time I could (and have) remove and install the engine by bear hugging it out and back in. Those days are long past.
Click to expand...
.
I'm sorry to hear that I have to take out the engine. That might mean I have to take Gary's advice and table the project until spring. I just don't have anywhere to put all the parts with the way things are now.

Jim, yeah, I don't try things now that I used to do without a thought.
 
jetmechmarty said:
If I have something to set it on, almost even with the frame bottom, I find removal fairly easy. I straddle the bike like I'm going to ride it and pull the engine toward my chest then ease it out the side. I discovered this after I had done it by stripping the bike and laying it on its side. Going back in is easy too. I use my 27 year old neighbor. It goes right in!
Click to expand...

Marty, I actually was thinking I might be able to rig up something using a jack and some boards. I guess we'll see.
 
Yup, parts run today, radian motor went in the van with a skid steer, came out with the hoyer lift. frame also came out with the hoyer, then put the rear wheel back in place. It's a roller now. :rolleyes:
77.jpg

I don't ask questions just answer the summons.......

Hoyer like this
20200420_153508-jpg.164849
 
bul_racer said:
Marty, I actually was thinking I might be able to rig up something using a jack and some boards. I guess we'll see.
Click to expand...
My 9 yo grandson is going to help me pull an engine the day before Thanksgiving. We'll have to record the event. The secret is not to twist and put my back at risk.
 
Well, been a while since I've posted. There has been an interesting development. Earlier compression test showed 60/90 so I was thinking valve job. As suggested, I sprayed some carb cleaner in the cylinders. Let it sit for several days and then rode it a bit. Wasn't able to do very much. Nowhere near the 200 miles suggested by gggGary because, frankly, it runs like shit. Also, I do not yet have a headlight on the bike. The license plate sticker is from 2005. I did ride it up and down my road to the corner which is 3/4 miles maybe 4-5 times. Let it sit some more and did a couple more trips. Then I did another compression test, this time holding the throttle open as recommended by an earlier post.

I did not expect the result that I got: 105 left side, 117 right side. While this is not stellar, it's WAAAY better than what I was getting before. That's encouraging. However, as I said, it runs like shit. Won't rev above 3000 and won't go over 40 MPH. It just starts cutting out badly the more I twist the throttle. I suppose it could be a carb problem but since I recently rebuilt the carbs I'm thinking it's probably electrical. All the wiring is dried out and brittle and I have not replaced the spark plugs yet. There was an issue with the spark plug cap separating from the wire. I cut off about 1/4 inch from the wire, then installed the cap with a twisting motion to set the screw then taped the cap to the wire with Gorilla Tape. Should hold for a while.

I did order a cheap battery and it worked for a while but since I've not been able to run the bike regularly it hasn't been able to charge up like it should. Now, just 4 months after purchase, it will not hold a charge. I'm not sure that when the bike is running the battery is being charged. Is there a way to know if it's charging? To be able to run the bike I've taken the battery from my 250 KTM and put it in the Yamaha. The KTM doesn't mind for now bc I have it apart to do a top end but soon I'm gonna have to put that battery back where it belongs.

Not sure how long I will be able to continue working on the Yamaha. We had snow day before yesterday and the 1 inch we were supposed to get turned out to be almost 4 inches. I plan to store the Yam for winter in my barn which is about 120 yards from the garage with a small hill but if there's more than an inch or so of snow I'm not sure I'll be able to get the bike to the barn. Even an inch might be difficult with those smooth tires. We might be getting snow next week so that doesn't leave me much time. If it snows again before I get the bike in the barn I'm screwed for the winter.

I saw a thread here somewhere about electrical stuff & I can try to find it again but maybe someone knows & can let me know where to find it. As always, any insight is much appreciated.
 
Yes, there's a simple charging system check. Check voltage at the battery while the bike idles and then revved to about 3K. It should read around 12 volts at idle then increase to about the mid 14's when revved. If it doesn't change, you have a charging problem, as in it's not, lol.

Yes, your rough running could be electrical but it could also be the carbs. The BS34s are very lean from the factory so if you're trying to run the bike with no mufflers or air filters, that could be it. Make any changes to the exhaust or the intake and the BS34s must be re-jetted.
 
So what we're saying here is the hot tip is to quit "chasing a problem". The way forward is to do (redo) the wake up drill, checking, and doing any needed repairs, up grades, to each system as you go. As the Grizzled one always says: compression, spark, fuel.
Set cam chain, set valves, now do a compression check. Go through and test all parts of the iggy. Then see if you have bright spark at the proper time, both idle and revved. Now go though the carbs using the carb guide found in tech "till your eyes bleed" Do not leave out ANY part of the process. When you are certain all the parts are correct, clean, and working If it STILL doesn't run well, start troubleshooting.
 
Nope, you're not "screwed for the winter," you're just given an opportunity to do needful things without being pressured by the urge to get the machine on the road.
Apart from setting valve lash there's not much to be done about compression until you can run the motor, so you might start by cleaning every switch and connector on that bike and applying a dab of dielectric grease. Then have a look at Gary's charging system guide in Tech. Gary announced a clear intention of writing a reference thread, but for some reason guys had to interrupt, divert, and distract with their personal questions--a species of vandalism that pisses me off no end. So what you might do is to print off the material and do some cut-and-paste editing, chopping out the useless diversions and leaving Gary's fine work as unmolested as possible. When you're done with that, download the factory service manual from www.biker.net (it's free, thanks to Jean Akers' generosity). Then proceed to ignition checks.
 
5twins said:
Yes, there's a simple charging system check. Check voltage at the battery while the bike idles and then revved to about 3K. It should read around 12 volts at idle then increase to about the mid 14's when revved. If it doesn't change, you have a charging problem, as in it's not, lol.

Yes, your rough running could be electrical but it could also be the carbs. The BS34s are very lean from the factory so if you're trying to run the bike with no mufflers or air filters, that could be it. Make any changes to the exhaust or the intake and the BS34s must be re-jetted.
Click to expand...

Fiver, think I could adjust with the mix screws or should I be thinking larger mains?
 

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