Bushyboy's build thread

Bushyeyed1

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So picked up my 1980 xs650 yesterday and have started poking around to see what needs to be repaired. I have the new battery charging while I upgrade the fuse box since a glass fuse was blown and it was jerry rigged up anyways. Previous owner said carb needs to be tuned but judging by the air filters deteriorated state and a rubber seal deformed I'd say it's time to get some pod filters. I ended up getting it running after I charged the battery and ran it down the road. I can tell it needs some adjusting but it was fun to ride it.
 

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Ozboy

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Looks nice Bushy!
Remove that front steering twich by getting a fork brace. I ran without one for ages (see avatar) like you have now and scary stuff. Hughs Hand Built is the way to go.
 

motormike

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Details ! tell us ya got it for $50.oo from the original owner.... sat for 50 years.. started first kick. Embellishments are mooch 0 appreciated …. Photos …
If it's a keeper.... tapered head bearings, swing arm up grades. it's a Saturday project. Can you read the date codes on the tires... ? :)
 

5twins

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Yes, at the very least you need a fender on the fork. That single front disc puts lots of twisting force into the front end when applied. The handling will be greatly affected (in a bad way) with a bare fork like you have now. If you do install pods, get the right kind (UNI foam). The pleated K&N type don't work right on these CV carbs.
 

Bushyeyed1

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I ended up paying $800 for the bike. I used the starter switch instead of kicking it and it fired right up after the new battery and fuse box. The seller gave me a box of spare parts including the front fender. This is definitely a work in progress gents so stayed tuned.
 

Bushyeyed1

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Jim my plans are to turn it into a sort of cafe style. No flat seat though and I want to keep it true to a xs650. Some things to go for sure is the huge seat maybe cut it down and put new cover. First thing to go probably the handle bars, but I haven't figured out if I want flat bars or clip one. I like the duel exhaust but it has small pin hole leak in one muffers so more to figure out. As time goes and the more I stare at it after I make sure the engine is running optimal then more design features will follow.
 

Bushyeyed1

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Well I wanted to make sure I had ordered all the parts I need and I think I made a pretty good assessment thanks to this forum and youtube videos from nightflyer. The PO didn't know why it kept burning oil. 'Well did you think to check where it was dripping from" I thought in my head anyway. Aside from a few stripped screws that probably told me he had been in there I believe I got the parts I need to stop this leak in the pictures below. And would explain the hard down shift into first. Also can anyone tell me the size of the socket to remove the oil drain plugs. I got a 30mm like I read in a service manual, but it is too big. I am thinking it is more like 26mm or 28mm. And while I'm asking questions is the sprocket a 38mm or something else? It is a 1980 xs650 G model I believe since it starts with 3G0-000###. I have a feeling I am gonna learn a whole lot about this engine before I actually decide to take it down the road for a long ride.
IMG_20181129_103547.jpg IMG_20181129_104801.jpg IMG_20181129_104330.jpg
 
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Bushyeyed1

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Drain plugs and rear axle nut are 27mm. Sprocket nut is 36mm. The 27mm will also fit the lock nut on the cam chain adjuster. The acorn cover nut for the cam chain adjuster, along with the front axle nut, are 22mm.

I ended up using a 1 1/16' socket Jim recommended for the oil plugs and it also fits the rear wheel shaft nut; both snuggly and cheaper then the metric. The sprocket nut was almost finger loose and I just used a BIG F-N adjustable wrench I have in the shop. Good to know the socket I bought will also fit the lock nut on the cam chain adjuster. Now just getting up the courage to get the pushrod bushing out without messing stuff up. I started to drill but took a step back for the evening and decided I'd have a beer. I am caught between two bike projects at this time a 1971 Yamaha JT1 mini enduro and the xs650. The JT1 was a basketcase so it seems to be a stop and go progress and the XS650 is calling me to ride it when it is warm. I do however need to make sure it is safe enough to go down the road and the more pieces I take apart the more I am glad it is winter. I almost forgot I did find some good under all the years of dirt and oil. It appears the PO did install a 17 tooth sprocket, but I am unsure about the chain because it didn't appear to be cut. Unless 17 tooth is stock, but there was a broken 16 tooth in the box o parts he gave me.
 
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Bushyeyed1

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Got that darn pushrod bearing uninstalled and for my first time it was a little stressful making sure I didn't mess anything up drilling it out. And no worries i made sure all the shavings were cleaned out as far as I can tell. Everything is ready for the new bushing and seal. Any tips I should know to help with the install?
 

5twins

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Shave the sharp edge off the hole the seal fits into. Apply a little Yamabond to the outside of the seal instead of oil or grease before you push it in. It will act as a fitting lube like the oil or grease would have, but with the added benefit of then helping to seal it in the hole. Last step in the "fix" or "upgrade" is to change over to the long one piece push rod to replace the two rods originally in there.
 

Bushyeyed1

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Well stripped some more off the engine inspecting for issues. I already expected the oil sump filter was bad and ordered it. The secondary or right side oil filter is probably ok but a few shavings and plastic was in the filter. Should I go ahead and assume this is the cam chain guide or due to the broken sump filter? I know I need to change the head gasket anyways.
 

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5twins

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They may be front guide pieces but often the little rubber bits are chunks off the rubber ring bonded to the #4 starter gear .....

a1kwADF.jpg


Save that sump filter, you can patch it up with JB Weld. To preserve the sump filters and keep them from blowing out, take it easy on the bike (keep the revs low) right after starting until the oil warms and thins.
 
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