But how do you remove the stator?

bankerbiker

bankerbiker

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I appreciate that for many of you this might seem like a dumb question. However, during my career, I was a educator for management staff at the bank. And I reminded them that the only dumb question was the one that wasn't asked. I also appreciate that a question shouldn't be repeatedly asked (weren't you listening?) but I don't think I have seen an answer to this question.

I also really appreciate all of the advice and videos that are available, including from this site (which is a fantastic site, especially for newbies like me). However, videos I have found about taking the stator off the bike always seems to start too far down the road. The stator wiring has already been released from wherever it has been hiding on the motorcycle. I need to know how to free up that wire, because without a free wire, I cannot remove the stator.

Maybe that wire removal is obvious to others because you have done it before. For a rookie like me, that step is less obvious, and thus I am humbly seeking help.

I have disconnected the stator wire from its connector found under the seat near the battery. I have also disconnected the ground wire attached to the engine case (could Yamaha have used a smaller screw for that connection? I don't think so).

I followed the wire to a clamp behind the chain holding the wire to the frame and loosened that clamp such that the wire can be removed from the clamp (see picture).

20260803_121425[1].jpg

Now I see the wire is being held behind a bracket that the chain runs over. That bracket seems to be connected to the starter cover, and I removed that screw (see picture).


20260803_121437[1].jpg

How does that bracket come away from the motor, because it is very tight to the shaft. I don't seem to be able to make it budge. Have I forgotten to remove the chain and sprocket in order to get at the stator wire? I guess I would have thought there was a way to remove that wire without having to remove the chain and sprocket.

Or am I just being too impatient, and trying to miss an important step?

Thank you for any and all help.
 
20260803_121437[1].jpg
There is a M6 M8 bolt, pointed upwards, in the spot marked by the "X". You don't have to remove it, just loosen it, and the shift shaft chainguard plate will slide out. The stator cable might be in the way of the bolt head. And the chain will resist you trying to pull the plate off.
 
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bankerbiker said:
disconnected the ground wire attached to the engine case
Click to expand...
That's a special ground, it's the sender for the neutral light. That's why the wire is light blue. Early models have a spring push pin on the later engines you only need to loosen the screw a bit to remove the wire terminal.
bankerbiker said:
That bracket seems to be connected to the starter cover, and I removed that screw
Click to expand...
Be very careful tightening that screw, the the thickness of the bracket means the threads don't engage very far, making it easy to strip the engine case threads.
 
I managed to find that bolt pointed out by DogBunny. But no way can I get at that bolt without taking off the chain and sprocket. Don't have a wrench big enough for the nut yet, so will have to solve that problem before being able to get that stator out. And I need to stator out to clean it up and replace the oil seal behind the rotor.

You sure gain an appreciation for the time and effort put in by motorcycle mechanics. They will be faster and definitely more knowledgeable than me, but I now see what they have to deal with when servicing a motorcycle. Sometimes I think those guys who design motorcycles have never worked on them. They should be forced to work on them so they can see the impact of their design decisions.

Just my rant for today. My wife has been hearing it often as I work on this bike.

Again, thanks for the help.
 
Yes, it's a nut, not a bolt. And, it's an M8, not a M6 like I said before. You need an open end 13mm wrench. Nothing else will work, it has to be an open-end (I think). You don't have to take the sprocket off. I am just about certain you don't have to take the chain off either. Just slacken the chain all the way, at the rear axle chain tension adjusters, push the rear wheel forward to get the needed chain slack.
 
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Thanks again for the info. While I think I don't have a choice but to take the chain and front sprocket off, I am going to do that anyway and replace the oil seal behind that sprocket. In for a penny, in for a pound. I think Jim said that if one leaks, they are all going to leak sooner rather than later. Now that I am hands deep into this, I will as well make the most of it.

However ...

I managed to get the nut off the front sprocket. My wife helped again by standing on the rear brake to keep the sprocket from turning. I had to use my impact wrench to get it off. Then I came upon this ...

20260803_174444[1].jpg20260803_175440[1].jpg

There appears to be another "washer" right next to the sprocket. Closer examination makes it look like it is actually part of the shaft. Is anyone familiar with this, and if so, how does it work so that I can remove the sprocket? Does not make sense that it would be part of the shaft because that would make the sprocket impossible to remove (it would seem to me).

Thanks.
 
DogBunny said:
No other washer. That sprocket is ready to pull off. Just rock it from side to side while pulling.
Click to expand...
Oh the wisdom of those who have gone before me. I didn't try hard enough to pull it off, but it came off quite easily! I can now get back to work on getting the stator out, which was my original objective.

Thank you again! If you are ever in Ontario, come see me.
 
Jim said:
What did you figure out as far as a rotor puller?
Click to expand...
Sorry Jim, I should have replied to your previous post.

I am going to try a "Yamaha puller" from XS650 Direct here in Canada. I am aware of your warnings about knock offs that seem to be coming out of China, but I am willing to give this a try. Timing is one of the reasons. I greatly appreciate your willingness to lend a tool to me. That is one of the reasons this site is so fantastic. People sharing a similar love for this bike (although my love is still in the growing stage - frustration abounds).

Thanks again. I'm sure I will need more advice as I go about changing these oil seals.

Did I mention how much fun this is? Hmmm. Might be the booze talking. Sorry, Canadian whiskey, not bourbon.
 
Jim said:
It's just as easy with the engine in situ. Put the bike on the centerstand, grab a small mechanics stool, cop a squat and go to town on it.


You'll need to clean the oil off the stator and rotor. The coating on 'em is bulletproof, so about any solvent/degreaser will work... brake cleaner, carb cleaner or electrical cleaner... all available at a parts store and all will do a fine job.

As you prolly know, I rewind rotors. They're dying from old age. Put an ohm meter on the slip rings and see if you get about 5Ω. Then check each ring to ground and make sure there's no short to ground. Let us know what you get?
Click to expand...
Hi Jim. Not an expert on working a multimeter, but I think I was able to get somewhere. When I set the multimeter to ohms and the dial to the lowest setting (200), and put one of the test leads to a ring on the rotor (each lead on a different ring), I got a reading of 0.6. When the multimeter is first turned on and the dial set to ohms, the display reads 1. When I put a lead on a ring and the other lead on the nut in the middle (ground) the display does not change.

Not sure what any of that means.
 
bankerbiker said:
When I set the multimeter to ohms and the dial to the lowest setting (200), and put one of the test leads to a ring on the rotor (each lead on a different ring), I got a reading of 0.6
Click to expand...
Supposed to read about 5.2Ω plus or minus about half an ohm. Can you double check that for us?
 
Jim said:
Supposed to read about 5.2Ω plus or minus about half an ohm. Can you double check that for us?
Click to expand...
Put a new battery in the multimeter (got a warning signal). The rotor is reading 0.6 ohms when Haynes says it should be 5.25.

When testing the stator, the reading is 0.6 between each of the wires when the Haynes manual says it should be 0.46.

Any thoughts on what that means for the rotor? I still have to take it off the bike to get at the oil seal behind it. Although I am not seeing big traces of oil around the rotor, there could be some still from the seal I presume impacting the rotor. However, it will be a couple of days before I can get the rotor off.
 

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