Buzzy's revival: '82 Heritage Special

Boog

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I am starting this thread now though I have much research, planning, and discovery to do before I toss too much gold into the abyss I am preparing for.

Buzzy will remain stock: no Café, or chop/bobber, no dual sport. All of which would be awesome! But I want a vintage, stock Yamaha XS650 that is reliable enough for a cross country trip, or six...

The goods:

I rode it 80 miles home without any issue except for the right side panel departing the bike at speed on a very congested freeway. I could not stop safely to retrieve it. But another is already ordered. So far it gets around 35mpg.

The Odometer says 7,780 miles.

The tires appear to have a lot of life left and were manufactured in 2019.

I have two new covers for the bike.

All lights work and it is state inspected now.

My to do list thus far:

Hopefully get the title and registration sorted out tomorrow at the DMV on a walk-in basis. The next available appointment is close to Thanksgiving. (Done 10-26-2021)

1. New brake pads in front; replace the brake fluid.
2. New brake shoes in rear. (A new adventure for me as I have never done this task).
3. New battery: clean and coat all electrical fittings. Battery cannot start the bike at all it seems.
4. Steering head feels odd, need to figure out why: retorque may be all that is needed. Hopefully not new bearings.
5. Kick start is an issue. The kicker won't catch at times. I understand this may be an adjustment of the clutch cable, I'll look into that more as I read the tech area of the forum.
6. Chain is loose. I am not sure if it is the original, but with such low miles, it is possible that the original was replaced when the bike was brought back to life sometime in the last 39 years. In any case, it will get cleaned, lubricated and tightened up soon.
7. The oil was changed 500ish miles ago, but I want to do it again now to establish a baseline. I have seen a few videos on changing the oil and filters. Why did Yamaha make their oil filter system like this?!?
8. Front forks dive way too much. I suspect a rebuild is in order. I'm not even sure the forks have fluid at the moment.
9. I want to find the two lower side covers as these have gone away long ago.

My guess is the bike has fallen on the left side. The left mirror I tightened has a bent shaft and the left front indicator stock has been replaced with chrome instead of the original black.

Other aesthetics can wait. I need to arrest some rust here and there but a full paint job will come towards the end of my mechanical updates.

Here is where I start:
20211023a.jpg
20211023c.jpg


This is just a place holder for links I will need in the future:
www.partzilla.com
www.mikesxs.com
www.hoosracing.com
www.nichecycle.com
www.yamahaxs650.com
www.cruzinimage.net

https://www.heidentuning.com/
www.tcbroschoppers.com
www.hoosracing.com
https://www.motolanna.com/
https://www.hughshandbuilt.com/
Speedometer & Tachometer Repair – Joel Levine Company, Inc.
650 Central
 
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You rode her 80 miles home. I'd say that's pretty good bones to start with.
I know you don't have a garage, so I'll suggest this; look around or do a google search for a Moto Garage near you. They're community garages where you pay a small fee and get to work on your bike there. You'll have like minded people there to help you out and access to some shop tools like bike lifts.
The bluing on the left header is concerning to me. Those are double walled pipes and seldom show any color... like the right one. Don't know if it just ran hot in the past or is running hot now, but it needs looking into.
 
You rode her 80 miles home. I'd say that's pretty good bones to start with.
I know you don't have a garage, so I'll suggest this; look around or do a google search for a Moto Garage near you. They're community garages where you pay a small fee and get to work on your bike there. You'll have like minded people there to help you out and access to some shop tools like bike lifts.
The bluing on the left header is concerning to me. Those are double walled pipes and seldom show any color... like the right one. Don't know if it just ran hot in the past or is running hot now, but it needs looking into.
Jim, have you ever taken temp readings of the headers with an IR gun? Just curious what “normal” operating temperatures may be.
 
Jim, have you ever taken temp readings of the headers with an IR gun? Just curious what “normal” operating temperatures may be.
I haven't. Not sure you could glean much useful info from shooting 'em. Too many variables.... single vs. double walled, idle vs. high power.... time interval between the high power run and shooting the temps... distance and height from the exhaust port would need to be pretty exact every time you shot.... Even a 10-15mph breeze from one side would show a temp difference. Dunno. :shrug:
Might be useful in Boogs case to see if there's still a temp differential that caused the bluing as long as all the factors that could affect temp were controlled.
 
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I haven't. Not sure you could glean much useful info from shooting 'em. Too many variables.... single vs. double walled, idle vs. high power.... time interval between the high power run and shooting the temps... distance and height from the exhaust port would need to be pretty exact every time you shot.... Even a 10-15mph breeze from one side would show a temp difference. Dunno. :shrug:
Might be useful in Boogs case to see if there's still a temp differential that caused the bluing as long as all the factors that could affect temp were controlled.
K thx, I understand all the variables. I used to measure temps to determine if I had a misfire in one of the cylinders. Wasn’t worried so much about the actual temps but more about the relative temp from one side to the other. I’m running single walled pipes that have a blackish “patina” and was curious what others were running for temps. I’m used to seeing chrome go blue but not so much black / gold tones. Shiny spot is from me trying to polish the pipe.
 
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Nice bike and good that you're keeping it standard.

May I offer a few comments? Good idea to change the oil, you could look at getting a screw-on filter like the Smedspeed one I fitted. Gives better filtration and avoids the problem of the Yamaha filters disintegrating. Changing the shoes in a drum brake, I haven't done an XS but usually an easy-peasy job. You mentioned doing a paint job - see how you feel once the bike is clean and sorted, it only has one chance to be original, you might come to appreciate a bit of natural wear and tear. Good luck and enjoy.
 
You rode her 80 miles home. I'd say that's pretty good bones to start with.
I know you don't have a garage, so I'll suggest this; look around or do a google search for a Moto Garage near you. They're community garages where you pay a small fee and get to work on your bike there. You'll have like minded people there to help you out and access to some shop tools like bike lifts.
The bluing on the left header is concerning to me. Those are double walled pipes and seldom show any color... like the right one. Don't know if it just ran hot in the past or is running hot now, but it needs looking into.

I have been reading the tech threads on carbs and will look into the IR thermometer. I have one at work.
I do not find any Moto Garages near me. The best I think I can go there is one of the bases may still have an MWR garage for use. I think for the time being, I will be stuck on the back patio. At least i do have a center jack to use when needed.
Thanks for the heads up Jim.
 
I haven't. Not sure you could glean much useful info from shooting 'em. Too many variables.... single vs. double walled, idle vs. high power.... time interval between the high power run and shooting the temps... distance and height from the exhaust port would need to be pretty exact every time you shot.... Even a 10-15mph breeze from one side would show a temp difference. Dunno. :shrug:
Might be useful in Boogs case to see if there's still a temp differential that caused the bluing as long as all the factors that could affect temp were controlled.
Not to mention IR doesn't work very well on chrome or SS, it's to reflective.
 
except for the right side panel departing the bike at speed on a very congested freeway.
Same thing happened to me on Little Creek Blvd in Norfolk twice several years ago. I was able to retrieve them both times. They are still on the bike, after lots of dent removal and repainting. I modified the cover latches so it will never happen again, the only new latches available are from Mikes and they are worse than the stock ones. Internally threaded rivets of 6 or 8mm work really well to prevent them making unannounced departures.

*edit* after looking at your pictures I see that Heritages do not share the same cover latches as Standards and specials. Might just need to replace the locking grommets.
 
Nice bike and good that you're keeping it standard.

May I offer a few comments? Good idea to change the oil, you could look at getting a screw-on filter like the Smedspeed one I fitted. Gives better filtration and avoids the problem of the Yamaha filters disintegrating. Changing the shoes in a drum brake, I haven't done an XS but usually an easy-peasy job. You mentioned doing a paint job - see how you feel once the bike is clean and sorted, it only has one chance to be original, you might come to appreciate a bit of natural wear and tear. Good luck and enjoy.
Hello Raymond, for the filter, are you referring to where the arrow is pointing?
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How many pieces is this conversion? And is it a simple R&R ordeal?
 
Bought this model new in spring of 83'.. with factory hard saddle bags. ($1604.25) with my tax return check. Did Black Hills, Yellowstone, Custer 2nd Place park ( Little Big Horn ).... All over the mid west. Had a Quick Silver with mono radio....tank bag, backrest, luggage rack, crash bars with foot rest.. cruise control... captains cup for my Diet Pepsi.... Great bike. I'd check the fuse box...over time the clips that hold the fuses go bad... I'd bypass the side stand switch.... the rotor-stator should be checked...another problem area. Get one of those volt meters and install it... about $40.oo... takes 10 minutes to install.... well worth the time. Drop the rear sprocket ... With freeway speeds posted 80Mph... this wouldn't be a good choice... but there's state highways that well get you anywhere just as timely. Once squared away....this bike will take you anywhere.....
 
@Boog here is a link to the Smedspeed conversion instructions. Smedspeed does it for you. But I believe they are in the UK. You have to send them your sump plate. You can have it done in the US as well. If it were me and I were going to have someone machine my sump plate for me, Id find an extra sump plate to send off for conversion so I could just swap it once done.
 
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Bought this model new in spring of 83'.. with factory hard saddle bags. ($1604.25) with my tax return check. Did Black Hills, Yellowstone, Custer 2nd Place park ( Little Big Horn ).... All over the mid west. Had a Quick Silver with mono radio....tank bag, backrest, luggage rack, crash bars with foot rest.. cruise control... captains cup for my Diet Pepsi.... Great bike. I'd check the fuse box...over time the clips that hold the fuses go bad... I'd bypass the side stand switch.... the rotor-stator should be checked...another problem area. Get one of those volt meters and install it... about $40.oo... takes 10 minutes to install.... well worth the time. Drop the rear sprocket ... With freeway speeds posted 80Mph... this wouldn't be a good choice... but there's state highways that well get you anywhere just as timely. Once squared away....this bike will take you anywhere.....
Thanks for your input brother. A rider's backrest would be helpful for me, I do plan to look into those after other needs are met.
Good call on the fuses, I will be looking at those this evening when i pull the battery to buy a new one.
The side stand switch is gone. The PO said it left the bike while he was riding it and has since twisted the wires together. He showed me where so I can make a more permanent fix.
The rotor was rewound and installed last year. It should be good to go, but I will give it a look to as I am not sure how long the battery has been bad and I know that running a bad battery will tax the rotor extra hard.
Installing a volt meter is indeed a good idea.
I'm not sure I want to lower the gearing just yet. I ride on the expressway to and from work where the speed is right around 80 MPH. And since I do not plan to drag race the bike, I do not think I need more 'off-the-line" grunt.
Thanks again
 
Volt meter.jpg Found photo of the volt meter... " Kuriyan ".. or something spel'd like that... chrome or black. I got a couple on two of my bikes ... Years ago wife and I was out and about on the 82' and I noticed that the meter indicated a issue.. so we beat feet back to the camp site.... about 25 miles... got there and the battery went flat. If I didn't have the meter.... we could have been broken down in boon docks Wisconsin. I wasn't ride'n the 82' .. it just sat.... sold it to a kid as his first bike about 5 yrs ago.... :(
 
View attachment 200460 Found photo of the volt meter... " Kuriyan ".. or something spel'd like that... chrome or black. I got a couple on two of my bikes ... Years ago wife and I was out and about on the 82' and I noticed that the meter indicated a issue.. so we beat feet back to the camp site.... about 25 miles... got there and the battery went flat. If I didn't have the meter.... we could have been broken down in boon docks Wisconsin. I wasn't ride'n the 82' .. it just sat.... sold it to a kid as his first bike about 5 yrs ago.... :(
Kuryakyn, here's a link to it.
 
I'm not sure I want to lower the gearing just yet. I ride on the expressway to and from work where the speed is right around 80 MPH. And since I do not plan to drag race the bike, I do not think I need more 'off-the-line" grunt.
I think most of us who do much highway riding have gone from a 34T rear sprocket to a 31-32T sprocket on the back. It lowers RPM's at modern highway speeds and greatly reduces vibration thus decreasing rider fatigue. You'll lose a little bit of grunt off the line but I personally think its the best mod you can do for any XS that gets ridden regularly.
 
Hello Raymond, for the filter, are you referring to where the arrow is pointing?
How many pieces is this conversion?
And is it a simple R&R ordeal?

Hi Boog, yes, it's the filter where you put the arrow. Quite unobtrusive and out of the way of damage. I'm very glad I made the change, much better filtration which suits modern hi-tech oils. The only down side is when you change the oil, it floods out all around the periphery of the filter so you need a wide tray and some newspaper down.

I see you've looked at the Miss November thread - post #32 shows the converted sump, there's a machined alloy block with internal passages in place of the Yamaha filter. To do the conversion, you remove six 10 mm bolts, pull the sump, which might need 'persuasion' if it's not been off for a long time, post it away, fit the new sump & gasket and screw a filter on. Which needs to be good and tight.

You omit the old filter and should also omit the smaller filter under the r/h side casing.

The old gasket can be a bear to remove - 5T recommends paint stripper to loosen the hardened gasket material.

As RustyPyles says at #15 above, Smedspeed supplies the conversion on an exchange basis. Might be a good idea to buy a spare sump, but you don't have to wait while they convert the sump you sent - they send a converted one by return of post. Best to contact them, Nick Forte is now the business owner but the original man is Howard Smedley who is a member of this forum. I guess there may also be people in the US who do sommat similar?
 
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