cam chain installation

Mark C

XS650 Member
Messages
17
Reaction score
6
Points
3
Location
pittsburgh, pa
Just a quick question for you guys that have been doing this awhile. Just finished the bottom end and getting started on the top end. Can I make the master link on the cam chain before I put the jugs on and just slip the cam under the chain or do I need to make the chain on the top of the cam? Any recomendations on which way is better.
 
If you've installed a new chain, they're very tight so you may have a hard time getting the cam in afterward. Well, you'd get the cam in OK probably, but lifting it enough to slip the bearings on would be hard. I always join the chain after the jugs and cam are in, on top of the cam. Even then it can be difficult to get the new chain up all the way onto the sprocket so the two ends meet. Often you need to put spacers on the studs and loosely bolt the head down to compress all the new gaskets slightly.
 
If you've installed a new chain, they're very tight so you may have a hard time getting the cam in afterward. Well, you'd get the cam in OK probably, but lifting it enough to slip the bearings on would be hard. I always join the chain after the jugs and cam are in, on top of the cam. Even then it can be difficult to get the new chain up all the way onto the sprocket so the two ends meet. Often you need to put spacers on the studs and loosely bolt the head down to compress all the new gaskets slightly.
Thanks 5!
 
If you've installed a new chain, they're very tight so you may have a hard time getting the cam in afterward. Well, you'd get the cam in OK probably, but lifting it enough to slip the bearings on would be hard. I always join the chain after the jugs and cam are in, on top of the cam. Even then it can be difficult to get the new chain up all the way onto the sprocket so the two ends meet. Often you need to put spacers on the studs and loosely bolt the head down to compress all the new gaskets slightly.

Struggled with this last winter
Steel wire in the chain in the process so if you drop the ends you can get it up
It was difficult to hit the right cam position ( No ,mark on stator )Then when the link is in place the riveting made me drop more things down into the motor
Bought a cheap riveting tool.
Have done it without but difficult and substandard result a ..2 man job I believe.
Perhaps the most difficult thing to do on this motor.
 
Struggled with this last winter
Steel wire in the chain in the process so if you drop the ends you can get it up
It was difficult to hit the right cam position ( No ,mark on stator )Then when the link is in place the riveting made me drop more things down into the motor
Bought a cheap riveting tool.
Have done it without but difficult and substandard result a ..2 man job I believe.
Perhaps the most difficult thing to do on this motor.

The proper prep is key - well, that and a very helpful walk-thru courtesy of @Jim - found here.
 
There are several ways to make this simple job harder. The most common is to use a fat 0.060" thick head gasket. The next most common is to eyeball the cam notch unaided instead running a line from the crankshaft center to sight on.
 
The next most common is to eyeball the cam notch unaided instead running a line from the crankshaft center to sight on.

Are you talking about using a degree wheel? If not, could you please expand on how to run a line from the crankshaft to sight on? Thanks.
 
If not, could you please expand on how to run a line from the crankshaft to sight on? Thanks.
Can be as simple as a tape line... wood dowel or a metal rod. Just something that gives a visual reference between the cam and crank centerlines.

zasw.jpg
 
With the timing marks at TDC, jam a wood skewer in the hole in the end of the crankshaft to hold a string in the hole. Pull the string up to sight on the notch in the camshaft boss, making sure that the notch is parallel to the line.
 
With the timing marks at TDC, jam a wood skewer in the hole in the end of the crankshaft to hold a string in the hole. Pull the string up to sight on the notch in the camshaft boss, making sure that the notch is parallel to the line.

Perhaps is helping but I still found it Difficult -- Jokingly
One hand holding the string
One hand holding the left end of the cam chain
One hand holding the right end of the cam chain
Head over at the backside of the Cam sprocket to watch the marking on the sprocket
One hand for the Chain link at the same time pulling the right and left together.
In my case the rotor timing mark was gone because of a rewinding ..marking not at the right spot
So I had a wood stick into the spark plug hole to find TDC

So when the both ends are in place cam and crank OK .
Which can take a while one tooth wrong on the cam is not mowing the marks that much
and then all wires Needed as safety are gone that can be there for picking it up
preventing it to fall all the way down hanging out on the underside.
With at least -- at least a half hour to fish it up again.
The cam is in right position .you have one hand for pressing the ends down on the sprocket
And with tho other one hand the link pins shall come into the cam chain end .
With a " Thick " Head gasket it might not go easy
If the thumb pressing ends down is not there for a moment

Trrrrr..rrttttt and the chain is down the hole. Gone

I am not a very good mechanic and some days you are on a flow / roll everything goes fine and things get in place effortless
Other days not so .. I suppose all have done that .. After straightening out the back Cleaning hands with a rag
finding another piece of metal on the workbench.
A small washer ..or a spring or even larger parts I forgot to put in the axle for Starter motor.
Last time --- but was lucky in the sense that I have taken away the starter motor and has kick only.
Of course simple jobs can be done the wrong way..
This is a job most people seldom do so if a friend is available.( assuming XS 650 owners have friends / Joking again )
It might save time and money not needing the chain rivet tool.
I have not read the Instructions by Jim mentioned here .Put this here anyways can be a help in the sense that the preparations can include having a friend with strong hands good eyes and a couple of beers ..Close By.
 
Jan, the key to getting this job done quickly is to work slowly. First: set the crank at TDC and use a wrench to lock it there. Next: Set spacers on 4 of the cylinder head studs and apply light torque, ~10 ftlbs. is plenty. Next: Secure each end of the cam chain with a wire. Next: Set the camshaft with bearings in position. Next: Remove wires from the cam chain, eyeball the timing notch in the camshaft, and place the ends of the chain on the sprocket. Next: Holding the ends of the chain in place on the sprocket with one hand, pick up the master link and install it. You may have to use a pair of circlip pliers to pull the chain ends together. Next: Install the cam chain tensioner. Apply only enough tension to take the slack out of the chain. Next: Install a line in the crankshaft end, as described above, and inspect camshaft position. Next: If the camshaft is out of position, mark the sprocket tooth where you think the chain should be joined with a paint spot. Next: Remove the tensioner, remove the master link, move the camshaft, and join the chain again. Reinstall tensioner, check sprocket position with line, and correct if needed. Finally: Install masterlink plate and rivet it. It's a simple task, and nobody should feel intimidated by it. (BTW I've noticed that sometimes the presence of a buddy and beer can create just enough distraction to turn an easy job into a real mare's nest!)
 
Jan, the key to getting this job done quickly is to work slowly. First: set the crank at TDC and use a wrench to lock it there. Next: Set spacers on 4 of the cylinder head studs and apply light torque, ~10 ftlbs. is plenty. Next: Secure each end of the cam chain with a wire. Next: Set the camshaft with bearings in position. Next: Remove wires from the cam chain, eyeball the timing notch in the camshaft, and place the ends of the chain on the sprocket. Next: Holding the ends of the chain in place on the sprocket with one hand, pick up the master link and install it. You may have to use a pair of circlip pliers to pull the chain ends together. Next: Install the cam chain tensioner. Apply only enough tension to take the slack out of the chain. Next: Install a line in the crankshaft end, as described above, and inspect camshaft position. Next: If the camshaft is out of position, mark the sprocket tooth where you think the chain should be joined with a paint spot. Next: Remove the tensioner, remove the master link, move the camshaft, and join the chain again. Reinstall tensioner, check sprocket position with line, and correct if needed. Finally: Install masterlink plate and rivet it. It's a simple task, and nobody should feel intimidated by it. (BTW I've noticed that sometimes the presence of a buddy and beer can create just enough distraction to turn an easy job into a real mare's nest!)
Yes Sir and Thank you
I appreciate that I get the information as well as others .That can benefit from experienced people
showing the Direction. How to do it.
One remembers being young No tools / No knowledge / No money / Scrap bikes
And not even afford that.
I am not really a good mechanic although I now have done it for many years.
And I also are on the same page with the buddy .. The wrong one there talking nonsense all the time
Might disturb so a mistake happens. It happens that i ask them to leave after a while
The beer is afterwards.
Sometimes things just go bad and so it was last winter with this job.
As mentioned the preparation could have been better --- was not good
I have done it once before ten years ago and cant remember any problems then
So I did not expect such problems second time.
 
Back
Top