So tonight I went to adjust my cam chain. When I pulled off the cap I noticed I'm missing the 10mm nut on the end. While running the plunger was moving about 1mm but it's not flush with the end. It's a 1972 xs2 engine but it's a bitsa. Any suggestions? I'm at a loss but that's not hard to do lol.
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Cam chain
- Thread starter crybinsk
- Start date
Hmmm, that is odd. All I can figure is the P.O. installed the adjuster bolt backwards, with the hex head facing in, lol. Hey, stranger things have happened, lol. If you loosen the lock nut, you should be able to unscrew the adjuster bolt completely, and remove it along with the plunger and spring from the housing.
And it won't loosen anything inside?
No, nothing will fall away inside or be loosened up. Here's a pic of the various tensioners. I'm pretty sure yours is a type B ......
I changed it. Put it flush with the end left it loose. Started and by hand loosened/tightened until I saw 1mm of movement. Then took it for a short run. I heard I slight ticking. Could that be the valves which I plan to do over the next few days? Hopefully they aren't on backwards. Lol
Yep type B
Sounds like the bike came through the looking glass or the PO was dyslexic.
Lol that's exactly what my wife said
Or maybe he is dyslexic, lol. Yes, that ticking may be loose valves. Did it do it before you messed with the cam chain adjuster? A nice thing about checking the cam chain tension while the engine idles is that it's easy to demonstrate to yourself just what a too loose chain sounds like. Simply loosen the adjuster way, way up until the chain starts making noise (rattling or ticking like loose valves). Then tighten it back down until the noise goes away. The way I adjust mine is I tighten the adjuster down until the plunger stops or almost stops moving (too tight), then I loosen it back up until I get the desired in-out movement. This gives you the perfect adjustment, just a bit looser than being too tight.
Now, while it's nice to be able to turn the adjuster by hand, that means you're doing it on a cold or only slightly warmed up motor, but the cam chain tension should be checked when the motor is hot. So, you can initially check and set it on a cold motor, but do re-check it when the motor is hot. Once all the parts are heated up and expanded, the tension may be too tight.
And checking the tension should be done more often that the manual specifies. I think they call for a check every 4K miles, but you should check it about every 1000 to 1500 miles. Since this corresponds with the oil change schedule most of us use, I've incorporated it into my oil change routine. The mileage is right and the motor is hot. So, when I get back from my ride to warm the motor up, 1st I check the cam chain tension, then I change the oil.
Now, while it's nice to be able to turn the adjuster by hand, that means you're doing it on a cold or only slightly warmed up motor, but the cam chain tension should be checked when the motor is hot. So, you can initially check and set it on a cold motor, but do re-check it when the motor is hot. Once all the parts are heated up and expanded, the tension may be too tight.
And checking the tension should be done more often that the manual specifies. I think they call for a check every 4K miles, but you should check it about every 1000 to 1500 miles. Since this corresponds with the oil change schedule most of us use, I've incorporated it into my oil change routine. The mileage is right and the motor is hot. So, when I get back from my ride to warm the motor up, 1st I check the cam chain tension, then I change the oil.
I plan to do the valve adjustment this week. I'll take it for a short ride and adjust the cam chain again because it wasn't hot and then I'll do an oil change. God knows what I'll find there.
Most likely a torn sump filter (very common). But many of us just patch them up with JBWeld. The filter is plenty big enough so blocking off a small portion of it doesn't impede the flow .....
What does you clean it with kerosene?
Yes, I just use kerosene. I have a "dunk tank" that I soak the sump plate and filter in .......
The crank handle on top connects to the basket, allowing me to spin it and "agitate" it. So, I'll soak the filter and sump plate over night usually, giving the handle a few turns every now and then to shake things up some.
If you're serious about the bike, you may want to watch eBay for a spare sump plate. They can usually be had for $20 or less, and most of the time will include a filter (usually torn, lol). Having a spare set-up allows you to swap it in at oil changes then clean the dirty one "at your leisure".
The crank handle on top connects to the basket, allowing me to spin it and "agitate" it. So, I'll soak the filter and sump plate over night usually, giving the handle a few turns every now and then to shake things up some.
If you're serious about the bike, you may want to watch eBay for a spare sump plate. They can usually be had for $20 or less, and most of the time will include a filter (usually torn, lol). Having a spare set-up allows you to swap it in at oil changes then clean the dirty one "at your leisure".
The PO gave me an older one that's clean but needs to be patched like you suggested. I'm very serious about this bike. I love how it runs. That's why I'm almost OCD on getting it tuned and running perfectly. Love how it pulls in second and third such a fun bike. Ran like complete garbage when I started. Maybe because everything was backwards lol. Plus thanks to you guys I'm learning a lot. I have a spare engine for it that I plan on rebuilding as well.
Yes, these are great old bikes and very addicting, lol. They are a "tinkerer's delight", with many cheap, little improvements you can make to them. And once "sorted" they are a very nice bike, the perfect local bike in my opinion. They're no high speed interstate cruiser, but they were never intended to be, they weren't designed for that. They're happiest, "in their element" so to speak, on secondary roads running up and down through the gears and running from about 40 to 70 MPH. Use this bike like that and you will love it.
I did a lot of reading over old threads for oil what should I do. Currently it's got Rotella T4 15w40. Do I continue to use that or use 20w50 Jaso MA. I've read many arguments for both.
These bikes pretty much date back to a time before motorcycle specific oils even existed.
Today, things are much more developed in the market place. I only use JASO MA2 oils as they're wet clutch compatible. I don't think it makes any sense to use anything else. It's not like it's expensive or anything.
Whereas, back in the day I just put any multi grade oil in that I could find.
Ok. Why the 2 and not just ma
