Can I replace engine hardware without opening engine?

[Lost Cause]

So my question to you guys...

If I were to purchase the stainless steel engine hardware kit. Would it be possible to carefully replace and re-torque each of these bolts without undoing and disturbing the engine gaskets etc.

My engine is in perfect running order and I simply want to replace the nasty rusty bolts and caps with this new kit. Is it possible? Is there a certain order of operation I should keep in mind?

Thank you guys for your help!

 

[gggGary]

IMHO sure! Follow the torque sequence for the head bolts, wouldn't worry about order on the rest of them, just do one a time, I'd use anti seize on all of them.

 

[thuban]

Welcome, lastwatcher. Yeah, I don't know why not for cases and the like. Just remove and replace one at a time in order and torque, if that's all you want to do.
Thu

 

[Lost Cause]

Welcome, lastwatcher. Yeah, I don't know why not for cases and the like. Just remove and replace one at a time in order and torque, if that's all you want to do.
Thu

Thank you thuban, thanks for the welcome (extremely excited for my first xs650 winter project) and thanks for the advice!

 

[gggGary]

Headbolt retorque is a must do on every XS650 anyways.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Here's the sheet that came with my Alloy Boltz kit.

 

[Lost Cause]

Here's the sheet that came with my Alloy Boltz kit.

Thanks! I like this kit, good price. Is this kit missing anything that comes in the more expensive $60ish kits? I noticed it said (no acorn nuts) are they replaced with something else in the kit or do you just have to find your own replacements elsewhere?

 

[5twins]

Even though the studs or bolts the acorn nuts fit on are common metric threads, the nuts themselves are not. I think they conform to the J.I.S. standard because they are physically smaller than a standard replacement would be. Many times they're shorter and don't take as large a wrench size. I bought a few stainless replacements for the little M6 valve cover acorns but didn't use them because they were much taller and didn't look right. Yamaha still sells most of the acorns but they're not cheap. For instance, those valve cover ones are about $3 each.

 

[Paul Sutton]

Interesting to see that techical sheet from 2M. A while back I read that the use of copper grease can result in over torqued values in the range of 10 - 20%. The worst thing to use seemed to be molybdenum disulfide antiseize which can put your torque values over by 50%. I wonder what that nano dust from gggGary would do? Its my guess you would just need to tighten the nuts to finger tightness.

 

[XSLeo]

When doing the big ones on the head it will be a good time to swap the rubber sealing washers that don't hold torque well to brass that do.
In your repair manual it has specs for torque and sequence for the head and cases.
Leo

 

[Lost Cause]

When doing the big ones on the head it will be a good time to swap the rubber sealing washers that don't hold torque well to brass that do.
In your repair manual it has specs for torque and sequence for the head and cases.
Leo

Do you have a good place to get those gaskets? I have a 1982 and everything I find online is only good for engines up to 1981.

 

[5twins]

I don't know why they list them that way because they're all the same. This is my '83 with copper washers replacing those metal/rubber stock ones .....

 

[Raymond]

Do you have a good place to get those gaskets? I have a 1982 and everything I find online is only good for engines up to 1981.

I replaced those rubber/steel composite washers on mine - bought Suzuki GS1100 copper washers. You will find the part number on this forum.