Can Someone Explain Ignition System on 1982 XS650 Special?

fenbrancis

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After doing some reading it looks like I can use the 1980 tci box as long as I remove the side stand switch wire and remove the switch and relay. I have a 1980 box, worth a try?
 

fenbrancis

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Do you mean the relay for engaging the Starter? Is the starter also not working? In terms of the ignitor, there is a set of relays....clutch and sidestand that will disable the tci board. I believe you just remove them. If you want to check it. Put a voltmeter on that pin on the ignitor connector. If there is a ground there then the ignitor output is disabled. I will dig my notes out tomorrow morning to confirm this one with the color code of the wire.
I checked the voltage into the ignitor this morning, 12v

It seems I have 12 volts across any plug that involves the ignition system, I have removed the sise stand relay and the side stand switch, are you saying the wire to the ignitor must also be removed?
 

fenbrancis

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Do a search here for "Gonzo Ignition." It's a $20 replacement for the TCI box.
I took a look into this, and purchased one. Is it really this simple of making sure its plugged correctly and checking ignition timing?

1653055123587.png
 

Jim

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For the most part, yeah. You'll need to pick up the connectors to make a pigtail and might have to swap polarity on the pickup... possibly file the slot larger on the pickup to adjust timing.... but yeah, it's a pretty simple mod. Here's the pigtail diagram.


Pigtail Wiring V2.png
 

fenbrancis

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For the most part, yeah. You'll need to pick up the connectors to make a pigtail and might have to swap polarity on the pickup... possibly file the slot larger on the pickup to adjust timing.... but yeah, it's a pretty simple mod. Here's the pigtail diagram.


View attachment 214650
Thanks for the diagram, going back to what you had mentioned earlier about checking voltage going in and out of coil.

I tested the voltage of the orange trigger and the red white 12v wire, with the key switch on both were getting twelve volts. Is there a way to test if a signal is actually being sent from the tci to the coil? That would tell me real quick if my tci is busted
 

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When removing the sidestand switch and relay, there's no need to remove any other wires. The TCI is put to ground and the spark disabled inside the relay. Remove the relay and you eliminate the possibility of that happening. All the original wires in the harness and relay plug can stay.
 

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Thanks for the diagram, going back to what you had mentioned earlier about checking voltage going in and out of coil.

I tested the voltage of the orange trigger and the red white 12v wire, with the key switch on both were getting twelve volts. Is there a way to test if a signal is actually being sent from the tci to the coil? That would tell me real quick if my tci is busted
Didn't mean for you to check in and out voltages... was asking which end you checked.
No way to test the signal that I'm aware of.
Did you try the ground "tap" test on the coil?
 

fenbrancis

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Didn't mean for you to check in and out voltages... was asking which end you checked.
No way to test the signal that I'm aware of.
Did you try the ground "tap" test on the coil?
Hadnt tried it yet, wanted to ask to be sure.

Flip ignition on, set switch button to on, remove the orange signal wire at the coil from the plug and play and leave the r/w together, tap the orange to the ground and see if the plugs spark?

That all sound right? If that sparks that means coils should be good and issue could likely be in the tci?
 

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Forgot you had the sidestand system. Here's the pigtail diagram for that system...


8 pin rev 1 5-24-21.png
 

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When removing the sidestand switch and relay, there's no need to remove any other wires. The TCI is put to ground and the spark disabled inside the relay. Remove the relay and you eliminate the possibility of that happening. All the original wires in the harness and relay plug can stay.
Nice, I unplugged that relay along with the plug to the actual swith. Still no spark, The only way the clutch switch could be causing this issue is if the bike was in gear and the clutch wasn't pulled in correct?
 

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That circuit controls the starter motor.... has nothing to do with the TCI.
Alright, so i set it up how youmentioned. Beautiful blue spark, but not where I was expecting it. The spark occurred where I touched the orange from the coil to the ground, not on the sparkplug (splarkplug was new and grounded to cylinder fin)
 

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Yes, the clutch switch and it's associated relay work on the starter solenoid and will not effect spark or the TCI. If those parts crap out, your electric starter will not work is all, you'd still have spark. So, I don't consider it as important to eliminate this relay and switch as I do with the sidestand ones. But to simplify things and ward off possible issues with the 40+ year old components, you can eliminate it if you like. However, when removing this relay, you must install a jumper wire. Power to operate the solenoid is fed to it on a R/W wire from the starter/headlight safety relay. This wire passes through the clutch switch relay. When you remove the relay, you break that connection so the two R/W wires in the relay harness plug must be jumpered together to restore it .....

ClutchSwitchRelay.jpg


83Relays3.jpg


83Relays2.jpg
 

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Yes, the clutch switch and it's associated relay work on the starter solenoid and will not effect spark or the TCI. If those parts crap out, your electric starter will not work is all, you'd still have spark. So, I don't consider it as important to eliminate this relay and switch as I do with the sidestand ones. But to simplify things and ward off possible issues with the 40+ year old components, you can eliminate it if you like. However, when removing this relay, you must install a jumper wire. Power to operate the solenoid is fed to it on a R/W wire from the starter/headlight safety relay. This wire passes through the clutch switch relay. When you remove the relay, you break that connection so the two R/W wires in the relay harness plug must be jumpered together to restore it .....
Thanks for the information! I may remove that one in time but probably will keep it fo now as it doesnt seem to be causing any issues with the starter.
 

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When removing the sidestand switch and relay, there's no need to remove any other wires. The TCI is put to ground and the spark disabled inside the relay. Remove the relay and you eliminate the possibility of that happening. All the original wires in the harness and relay plug can stay.
I am sure you already mentioned this to me but want to be sure. When unplugging the side stand swith and relay, you dont need to run any jump wires do you? Simply unplug and dont worry about it?
 

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Yes, no jumpers needed, just unplug and remove both the switch and the relay. On my '83, I removed all the "junk" pictured below to the left of the spring and replaced it with an older model's simpler stand and spring anchor post pictured to the right ......

83Sidestand.jpg


The earlier, smaller spring post makes it much easier to access and remove the oil pan and it's bolts .....

83Sidestand3.jpg


83Sidestand4.jpg
 

Jim

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Alright, so i set it up how youmentioned. Beautiful blue spark, but not where I was expecting it. The spark occurred where I touched the orange from the coil to the ground, not on the sparkplug (splarkplug was new and grounded to cylinder fin)
Did you have both plugs connected and grounded?
Closin' the gate after the horse..... but did you try 2 new plugs?

Spark on the orange wire is normal. It's a coil/inductance thing....
 

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Did you have both plugs connected and grounded?
Closin' the gate after the horse..... but did you try 2 new plugs?

Spark on the orange wire is normal. It's a coil/inductance thing....
Alright I tried a second time with brand new plugs. Spark to the plugs on both sides.

It was kind of hit and miss, the plug didnt spark everytime i touched the orange a ground but it started to spark. If I have torn this bike apart to find out I just had two fouled plugs... well I might just cry
 
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