Can Someone Explain Ignition System on 1982 XS650 Special?

fenbrancis

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I have done some research on this forum and the internet and can't quite seem to find the answer I am looking for. I have a 1982 XS650 Heritage special, when I purchased it didn't run. I have put in a fresh battery, plugs, rebuild the carbs, checked cam chain, valves, cleaned the stator and stator rotor. Yesterday I was out riding and bike was doing great and running strong. I stopped to run in the store and when I came out the bike wouldn't start. I got it home, threw it on the tender and let it sit over night. This morning, still no start, I pulled the plugs and no spark on either plug.

Can someone explain to me the ignition system on a 1982 model? From what I can see its a TCI ignitions system, is that just the black box under my battery box? Iver read alot of people mentioning if that is the issue to throw out the whole system and start from scratch. Other than checking coils, wires, is there any other way to narrow it down to that little black box being the issue?

Any help is greatly appreciated and I apolgize in advance if this post is redundant, I am new to the xs 650 and just trying to understand.
 
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The Heritage Special has a sidestand switch and a clutch switch to ensure that the bike cant be started unless the clutch is pulled in when not in neutral and the sidestand is down.
If the bike won't start in neutral with the sidestand up you may have a wiring problem.
The sidestand relay is a small relay on it's own behind the left side panel, if I remember rightly unpluging the relay will defeat those safety circuits.
 
The clutch switch and it's associated relay work on the starter motor only and don't effect spark. If they go bad, the starter motor simply won't work but the bike will still have spark and can be kick started. The sidestand switch and relay, on the other hand, do work on the TCI box, grounding or shorting it out and killing the spark. Best thing to do with those two items is remove them. You can simply unplug them both, no jumper wire required. And you must unplug both. Remove the switch only and leave the relay, and the bike will only have spark when in neutral.

SidestandRelay2.jpg


83Relays.jpg
 
The clutch switch and it's associated relay work on the starter motor only and don't effect spark. If they go bad, the starter motor simply won't work but the bike will still have spark and can be kick started. The sidestand switch and relay, on the other hand, do work on the TCI box, grounding or shorting it out and killing the spark. Best thing to do with those two items is remove them. You can simply unplug them both, no jumper wire required. And you must unplug both. Remove the switch only and leave the relay, and the bike will only have spark when in neutral.

View attachment 214536

View attachment 214537
I will take a look at this, I had an issue with the side stand wires being cut when I first got the bike. I cleaned them up but wonder if that maybe be part of the issue.
 
The clutch switch and it's associated relay work on the starter motor only and don't effect spark. If they go bad, the starter motor simply won't work but the bike will still have spark and can be kick started. The sidestand switch and relay, on the other hand, do work on the TCI box, grounding or shorting it out and killing the spark. Best thing to do with those two items is remove them. You can simply unplug them both, no jumper wire required. And you must unplug both. Remove the switch only and leave the relay, and the bike will only have spark when in neutral.

View attachment 214536

View attachment 214537
So, I unplugged side stand switch and relay. Still no spark.

I made sure neutral switch connection was good.
 
Next I would check the multi wire plug for the TCI box. It's on the left side next to where the sidestand relay is. You can see it in my pic above (the other plug is for the reg/rec). Due to it's location next to the battery box, it can get all corroded from battery acid fumes. I had to replace a couple of crimps in mine they were so bad.
 
Next I would check the multi wire plug for the TCI box. It's on the left side next to where the sidestand relay is. You can see it in my pic above (the other plug is for the reg/rec). Due to it's location next to the battery box, it can get all corroded from battery acid fumes. I had to replace a couple of crimps in mine they were so bad.
Ah this all checked out. Not sure where to go next.

Started tearing this thing back apart to check connections and coils
 
Those are close enough considerin' an old meter. The book sez 2.5Ω and 13KΩ
 
Couldn't hurt. I replaced mine even though it was still working. At 40+yrs old, it's best years are behind it.
Look for a used Honda MP08 coil on Ebay. It's much more robust.... it's the perfect coil for the TCI iggy.
Not sure I'd use a Chinese repop MP08... but good used ones pop up on Ebay all the time. Think I paid 20 bucks to my door for two of 'em.
They come off the Honda Goldwings... so they're usually sold in pairs.
They're a little smaller than the TCI coil, so you'll need to fab a mount, but it's a popular mod for the TCI bikes.

EDIT: looks like you removed the post I was responding to.
 
I checked the voltage for the primary at the coil and the ground to the coil. Only 11 v, battery is fresh, has 12.4-13 v
That was going to be my first question. Since that is established, what is the voltage at the ignition coils with the ignition switch to ON?
What about the pick-up coils? Have you verified their integrity? There’s no spark if one of those goes open circuit.
 
That was going to be my first question. Since that is established, what is the voltage at the ignition coils with the ignition switch to ON?
What about the pick-up coils? Have you verified their integrity? There’s no spark if one of those goes open circuit.
11v too the coil? Or 11v coming out of it?
This is 11v going to the coil

How do you test coming out?
 
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